ktmlew Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I mentioned this on the other thread...I listed it as 450 there. It's 350. Doesn't matter really. Need to provide some explanation. Went to work at an Indy shop about a month ago. Owner is a master tech but spends 98% of his time on the front desk. First 3 weeks we had two complete rookies that I had to help with every job. Lots of juggling... Finally hired another real tech but so far he isn't a sure-to-show up type of guy...means I'm "multitasking" more than I really like. Have absolutely ZERO time to diag anything. If it takes more than 88 seconds, guarantted to get interupted. Plus the fact I took about a 2 year sabatical from the business. The alignment machine, apparently bought cheap, has issues that requires multiple boot-ups while doing an alignment...it came over on the Ark...must have gotten damp. <grin> So back to the belt eating problem...new fan clutch, tensioner and alternator are obvious to see. Guess it started eating belts more than two years ago. As parts failed they were replaced but that didn't "fix" the belt issue. This truck looks like brand new. VERY nice shape. It's a manual trans 4X4. I tried the straight-edge deal, but about then one of the rookies started trying to kill some fancy 20" rims while mounting tires...ended up putting the belt back on and sent it down the road. Glad I'm working by the hour...NO MORE FLAT_RATE!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I dunno.... there's times I wish I was back on the bench working flat rape.... It would stop questions like "Well what HAVE you been doing?".... and "well WHEN will it be ready, then?". The answer to the first question is usually "coming every time you called me" or "dealing with an apprentice that can't handle the job you gave him".... The answer to the second is always "he can take it now, if he wants... Find me a box for these parts....". Being in an instructional position is an awesome responsibility.... it is here that we can directly affect the minds and habits of these youngsters... and allow them to be just as good as they can ever be.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 The model year is important to know and if it has a 130 amp alternator in it. There are two TSB's for tensioner replacement that might be applicable. Bruce has the right idea but usually you can eyeball a misalignment by watching the belt on the pulleys. A P/S pulley that is pressed on too far will cause problems, a skewed tensioner, worn idler pulley and so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Keith I can't find my TSB's on the belts could you post them please. Thanks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 These are the ones that apply to a 7.3L PSD, others supersede to these. There were others that apply to the 4.9L gas and the 7.3L IDI diesel. For those who don't know, the acronym "FEAD" stands for Front End Accessory Drive... belt. 03-21-14 FEAD BELT - WEARS, SHREDS, AND/OR COMES OFF - VEHICLES WITH 7.3L DIT ENGINE AND 130 AMP ALTERNATOR BUILT 8/94 THROUGH 5/96 . 98-23-14 FEAD - BELT TENSIONER WEAR - VEHICLES WITH 7.3L DI TURBO ENGINE I thought there were more but then I realize that the 7.3L IDI was the engine that really gave us problems. I don't know how many I replaced tensioners, shimmed pulleys and adjusted P/S pulleys. And the worst part of the job, any year, was if it had an automatic transmission the transmission cooler lines would frequently be ripped off. Everything was covered in ATF many times. I hated that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 The model year is important to know and if it has a 130 amp alternator in it. There are two TSB's for tensioner replacement that might be applicable. Bruce has the right idea but usually you can eyeball a misalignment by watching the belt on the pulleys. A P/S pulley that is pressed on too far will cause problems, a skewed tensioner, worn idler pulley and so on. The biggest problem the Indy shops face is lack of reliable info. We use AllDataPro but it doesn't, IMO, have ALL the tsb's listed. Maybe Dieseldoctor's site will have it? As I mentioned before I currently lack time...this will get better fairly soon though as one rookie is very motivated and learning quickly. I think the other is GONE! Boss hasn't heard from him this week...another was unloading his toolbox when I left to go vist the bone-cracker this afternoon. Bent over Sunday and WHAMMO! Back killed me for last 4 days... The other "tech" that just started last week, about mid-week, left at noon yesterday to go buy a streetbike...didn't show up this morning and didn't answer calls to his cell...finally came in on crutches around 3:00. Crashed bike on way home from purchase. Blamed it on the dealership that sold him the bike cause they took too long doing the paperwork??? I suppose not knowing the throttle turns both directions didn't have anything to do with not making a turn and busting out through the trees? He's actually real lucky. So now he will be the part-time guy...whether he likes it or not...seems to have a problem admitting HE made a mistake. As for the stress...I'm a stress magnet...always ready to blow a gasket. Just came from first appointment with a new chiropractor. He checked my blood-pressure. 100/60 Shouldn't be standing up? I checked it at Wallmart a week or so ago and it was 94/62 with pulse rate of 71...I figured the thing was broken. Maybe not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 It's a 7.3L turbo. I'll get all the straight dope when it comes back. The belt deal was an afterthought. Wasn't on the ticket to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 This is the one I was thinking of: Serpentine belt shreading, tensioner misaligned--95-97 Replace the tensioner and idler pullies with a dual-arm tensioner (98.5-style). Requires removing the alternator bracket, cutting the idler pulley mount flush with the bracket face and trimming the gusset to 1/2" below the face to allow for clearence. Install a new belt routing decal over the original. Tensioner: F8UZ-6B209-CA Belt, F-Series: F8TZ-8620-FB; E-van: F8UZ-8620-BA Belt routing decal: F8UZ-8B656-AB I hope this helps!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Bedford Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Gates makes a neat lazer beam emitting alignment tool, #91006. Fits in the belt grooves and shoots a beam to the other pullies so you can see how things line up. We don't use ours too often but sure beats trying to lay a straight edge in tight quarters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Quote: the 7.3L IDI was the engine that really gave us problems. I don't know how many I replaced tensioners, shimmed pulleys and adjusted P/S pulleys. The best was removing the bolts from the a/c compressor and tipping it down to get the belt on the pulleys cause they took so much slack out of the system to keep the belt on. Loads of fun back in the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Quote: the 7.3L IDI was the engine that really gave us problems. I don't know how many I replaced tensioners, shimmed pulleys and adjusted P/S pulleys. The best was removing the bolts from the a/c compressor and tipping it down to get the belt on the pulleys cause they took so much slack out of the system to keep the belt on. Loads of fun back in the day. Kinda rings a bell for changing a Sick-O alternator, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted September 6, 2007 Author Share Posted September 6, 2007 This is the one I was thinking of: Serpentine belt shreading, tensioner misaligned--95-97 Replace the tensioner and idler pullies with a dual-arm tensioner (98.5-style). Requires removing the alternator bracket, cutting the idler pulley mount flush with the bracket face and trimming the gusset to 1/2" below the face to allow for clearence. Install a new belt routing decal over the original. Tensioner: F8UZ-6B209-CA Belt, F-Series: F8TZ-8620-FB; E-van: F8UZ-8620-BA Belt routing decal: F8UZ-8B656-AB I hope this helps!! Man you are on top of your game! I'll relay the info once I get a better look at the vehicle. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Yeah, back in the day! If only our problems were like that now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 It's done. New tech that just started last week ended up doing it. He was suprised he had to chop that big a chunk off the bracket, where the old idler went, to make the tensioner fit. Of course we didn't get the belt routing sticker but I knew how to do that so didn't matter. Found it has a lift pump leaking so still not quite finished with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 Still eating the belt. Truck (95 F350 7.3 DI Turbo) has 400 miles on it since replacing tensioner & belt with upgrade. Chewed the back side of belt off. One rib. Seems to be a problem on tensioner/alternator side. Removed tensioner for better visablity of pulleys. Only thing we can see is whomever replaced the alt apparently held the pulley with Channelock pliers. Had some burrs on the rear flange. Used a file with it running to smooth pully. I put it back together and put the belt with a missing rib on correctly and it seems to be hanging on... Boss ordered the laser belt alingment dealio... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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