iceman Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 just replaced my 2nd 6.4 radiator. First time about 5 hours second time 1.5 hours. How are you guy replaceing the radiators any tips or tricks yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Sounds like you got it clocked if you shaved 3.5 hours off the second time around. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif I don't open any lines up, so I only have to fill the radiator and check and top off the trans fluid. I think it's worth it to take all the stuff off the rad in chassis so I don't have to fool with a/c or bleed that crazy fuel cooler system. The only thing that slows the process down, that I can see, is accessing the lower rad hose clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 thats the easiest way i found is just unbolting the coolers and letting them hang by the hoses and and not loosening up the condenser lines and the radiator comes right out yea the lower radiator hose is a bitch almost reminds me of like a corvette radiator the way they have it slanted in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 oh yeah and the first radiator was by the workshop manual the second time was my way but we all figure out our own way is faster lol sorry bout the punctuation lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Yeah but my first will be done the way you fellas posted. Of course I will read the manual first but if there is a better way, why not? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Have you guys heard any rumors about not having the cooling system bled properly? I heard of a performance problem from not using a vacuum bleeder, which confused the PCM and it went into a derate. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 i have not heard anything like that bruce but i may do some checking and get back to you on that i kinda makes some sense. seeing that the pcm monitors all sorts of temperatures on these things i could be possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 Any comments? I skimmed the manual and looked for TSB's. Nothing though there is a TSB for heater hoses causing a noise in the heater core. I am under the assumption that a cooling system that uses a de-gas bottle would not have any special bleeding requirements. I CAN see problems arising from low coolant levels. The EGR valve is the highest component in the system next to the vertical EGR cooler... where the EGRT sensor is located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 In reference to the fuel cooling system, if not bled properly it may derate. The bleeder is in the top of the vgt actuator cooler. You have to remove the screw, lay the fuel cooler radiator down to where it's horizontal, fill the system til coolant reaches the bleeder, remove the hose at the fuel cooler and run engine til pump turns on and coolant flows, then put the hose back on and remove the plug again and top off, then run and recheck for proper level in sight glass. I say avoid the breaking into the system at all if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 Now that I think about it, our teacher recommended using the radiplus fill kit to avoid problems he had heard of with the main cooling system and possible derate issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 Seems to me this is good to know stuff if it's true. I would love to see it documented. Good note on the fuel cooling system too. The only bleeding I recall being warned about was the fuel system after repairs or changing filters. We had one that was not bled before starting. Took a long time to get it purged and running. Probably would have been better to bleed it first. Glad it wasn't me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 UT-OH! Guess what rolled in the door this morning? And it belongs to the crybaby that cant haul his race car hauler over 80 MPH. New $63,000 truck springs a leak and he's calm as can be. Maybe he finally learned patience traveling the NJ Turnpike at 80 MPH. I'll let ya know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Ive done 3 now I think....its about 1.5-2 hour job. I just fill it like a 6.0 too. I have yet to have a problem. I dont think the service manual mentioned anything about special bleeding of the main coolant system? I havent seen anything other than the fuel system cooler being an issue. for your veiwing pleasure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 I did a few back in the spring and early summer which were MT. I did my first one since then yesterday to find there is an SLT now. 2.3 hrs... not bad... could be worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Don't forget claiming evac and recharge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Bedford Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Be careful, Aaron. If you follow the steps in the WSM there is no need to evac/recharge the A/C. The condensor is simply secured out of the way(step 14). Your warranty administrator may be paying you but an auditor will catch it and deny the entire claim. The auditor we had last year was very knowlegable with repair steps, but also some of the "cheats" less reputable techs were pulling to increase their hours. If you prefer to evac/recharge to ease the repair for yourself, OK, but I woudn't claim the ops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 The workshop manual instructs you to remove the 'cooling module'. The condenser is removed seperately? Edit: Dang, didn't go far enough down to see RAD - 6.4 Diesel. Flat rate reading. Dah well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.