My first 6.4L drivability diag

GregH · December 21, 2007

Ok, so the DOT brings me a truck that won't develop any power. I look it over, verify the concern (Ha! don't pull out in front of anyone!) and run the codes. P040D was present, pinpoint it, find that EGT-A is not responding to temperature - reads 4.65V (140 degrees F) all the time.

No problem, right? Replace the sensor, clear the code, run KOEO, KOER tests - no additional codes, and the P040D was gone. Road test, and it still won't go worth a damn. Runs smooth, just won't develop any power. 19 pounds of boost max...

After a bit more head scratching, I went ahead and reflashed the PCM, TCM, and IC to the latest levels. Problem solved...

So, here's the speculation - the truck was in failsafe becuase it couldn't tell how hot the exhaust was at the manifolds. After repairing the condition and clearing the code, the PCM would not come out of failsafe. I looked around for a PCM KAM reset function and couldn't find one. Flashing it evidently kicked it out of failsafe....

Just thought I'd share...

"warning, sharp learning curve ahead!"

eastendpowerstroke · December 21, 2007

cool good to know thanks Greg.

I'm seriously running out of space in my head for this stuff /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Tony302600 · December 21, 2007

Actually, I think i found a way to do that. I encountered a p2610 that kept turning the MIL on 2min after u drove the truck. ( i disconnected the batteries during a radiator replacement ) I tried clearing it....ok...system passed... drove it...ok....put it in the service lane to be washed...shut it off..porter came to me and said the engine light was on.... found a SSM that states... in order to clear a p2610 you must remove fuse 36 in the BJB for 30seconds..then reinsert, then clear the codes with IDS.

I'm thinking that is the only way to really "clear" KAM. Maybe thats something to try next time that happens /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

fordtech1 · December 24, 2007

Greg , I had one with P040D that had a bad egt-a, caught hell getting the sensor out the threads stripped out when trying to get it out. Did u have any problem with yours?

Keith Browning · December 24, 2007

I had one run in with EGT1-3. It was tight coming out and I fortunately was smart enough to stop forcing the issue and chancing damage to the DPF case. I grabbed the torch and heated the mounting boss nice and red and it came out easily, nice and clean.

Bruce Amacker · December 24, 2007

That's funny. My EGT's came out clean, but the DPF pressure sensor hose barb gave me a huge fight, and the threads were trashed. There seems to be a common thread here, I wonder why?

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Tony302600 · December 24, 2007

my EGT 13 was impossibly stuck in their....then when i changed a DPF EGT12 was stuck also...nothing a heat wrench couldnt handle...

fordtech1 · December 25, 2007

Yea Keith, I had to heat it to get it out also, I was just wondering if u guys ran in to this also. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

GregH · December 28, 2007

No real issues removing my EGRTA sensor, other than clearance around the sensor. I ended up cutting off the old wiring to the sensor and putting a deep socket on...

Surprising, since so many others here have had issues with threads..

Tony302600 · January 8, 2008

Well this isnt my first diag but its my first major "dig into." popping out the intake, P0303, 66 miles on it, collapsed lifter is my diagnosis after watching #3 exhaust valve while someone crankedit over.