Mustang engine replacement...

DamageINC · January 5, 2008

So I've never done this before in this fashion, but I decided to try something a little different.

I've got a '99 GT in the shop, came in locked up / no oil, needs an engine. Just because it's kinda slow here and I'm not trying to break and speed records or anything, I figured I'd go a different route than the "out the hood" method with this one, don't care if it kicks my ass or not....

And holy shit, is it easy this way.

Left the engine bolted to the K-member, trans still attached, and just dropped the whole K-member (wheels still on, suspension intact with struts unbolted from towers, calipers hanging from body) out of the car instead. I was *taking my time* with this because I didn't wanna destroy anything in the process, and when it was all said and done, I have the engine sitting in the K-member, but completely out of the vehicle in less than 1.5 hours.

Get this down to a procedure, something you can do without "thinking" about it, and you can honestly have this thing out in under an hour, I'd bet.

Honestly, if I remember correctly, there are a couple power steering/booster hoses to disconnect, 2 a/c lines to disconnect, remove the battery & tray, 3 or 4 electrical connectors and a ground on the LF fender, 3 connectors at the right side firewall, unbolt steering shaft, pull clutch cable out, unbolt exhaust from the mufflers, pull the front sway bar, upper/lower radiator hose, and pull the drive shaft.

Unbolt the calipers, unplug the ABS sensors, lower the car down so the weight's on the front tires, unbolt the struts from up top, and the 8 K-member bolts, and then up comes the car and the engine's right there. *VERY* fast.

Dave

LARRY BRUDZYNSKI · January 5, 2008

Look at that Diesel guy's figured out a better way to work on gasser's. Very cool!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

eastendpowerstroke · January 5, 2008

I do most all FWD cars and the escape like that.

The mustang with a 5spd can be easy from the bottom but with an auto it's about 50/50. if you do an auto from the bottom don't forget the torque converter nuts before you drop it out.

LARRY BRUDZYNSKI · January 5, 2008

Love it!!! Work smart not hard!!! Words to live by!!!

G. Bedford · January 6, 2008

I have done super charged T-Birds in the past this way. Works very well. Just make sure you have the larger sized inverted torx bits (E18/E20?) for the K-frame bolts.

I once lifted the body on a Crown Vic to do an engine job and it took awhile. Sure did learn alot about other system mountings and wire/hydralic routings that came in handy down the line. So, it was not a total loss.

Shlep · January 11, 2008

I've done a few oil pans on these things and one look at that K member and one look at the WSM was all it took to yank that baby right outta the way, think I had the pan done and everything back together in a little under 3 hours

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

mchan68 · January 11, 2008

I've got an '08 Escape waiting for parts that didn't make it to its first oil change without wearing out bank #2 exhaust cam so bad that there's at least 1/8th" of clearance between the cam bearing surfaces and the head. When I drained the oil, only less than 2 litres came out, discoloured and burnt. The excessive wear caused oil to past the seal where the pulley that drives the water pump is situated. Ford denied my request to replace the long block. Instead, they are telling to replace only bank #2 cylinder head. Me thinks the customer is just going to LOVE that. I too, will be dropping the powertrain/subframe as an assembly to carry out the repair.

Jeff_E · January 11, 2008

Like This...

mchan68 · January 11, 2008

YUP

Keith Browning · January 11, 2008

I like that jack! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

eastendpowerstroke · January 12, 2008

I like that jack! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

I got that jack too it's great I cant belive you guys don't, go rumage around the car shops tool area and steal it from them. econoline side tanks full aft axle tanks no problem.As a plus it gets about 6-6 1/2 feet high and drops to about 2 1/2 feet

Keith Browning · January 12, 2008

6-6 1/2 feet high and drops to about 2 1/2 feet

Really?! I must research the price of such jack, it looks like an OTC with a Rotunda sticker on it.

Jeff_E · January 12, 2008

I'll see if there's a model number on it when I go back to work on Monday.

mchan68 · January 12, 2008

Originally Posted By: eastendpowerstroke

6-6 1/2 feet high and drops to about 2 1/2 feet

Really?! I must research the price of such jack, it looks like an OTC with a Rotunda sticker on it.

The part number is 014-00765

eastendpowerstroke · January 12, 2008

Posted Image

POWERTRAIN LIFT WITH TILTING PLATE ES

ROT#S:

014-00765

Features:

Built to handle 1,250 lbs.

Connect the specially modified air/hydraulic pump with a special valve to your shop’s air supply.

Tilting plate adjusts 22 degrees front to back and 17.50 degrees to each side.

Width between the 4 x 4 wooden support blocks is adjustable from 0 — 29".

OTC 1585

Price:

$1,729.00

Jeff_E · January 12, 2008

Here is a site with some other options but it doesn't show prices.

norcoindustries.com

Keith Browning · January 13, 2008

Thanx guys! That was informative info and I also added Norco to the directory.

Jim Warman · January 13, 2008

When I had my own shop, I had one similar to this.... It had two interchangeable "heads"... one was an engine crane, the other much like the pic - transmissions, complete diffs... this thing was handy... Can't remember the brand but it was Canadian built and purchased from Acklands before Grainger got in to the picture... (circa 1990).

At that time a trans jack was $700ish CAD and a crane was $500ish CAD... this came in well under a G-note...