Keith Browning Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I just did one of those rears and the nut torque is in the 800's! All I have is a 600 lb/ft wrench too. I torqued it and then got out the breaker bar and a pipe and gave it an extra nudge. Sorry if I just shattered your opinions about me but... A torque multiplier is definitely needed for that but as i mentioned somewhere in the forums I am not buying one to torque one or two fasteners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeuiTim Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 Begin Vent I don't torque hose clamps, I torque pretty much everything else. I torque valve cover bases to 7n-m. Why you ask? My shit does not leak or come back (usually and knock on wood) I am honored to work with a King, King of all Comebacks, not sure if he owns a torque wrench. Funny how he generates so much repeat business for us. They like him and protect him becasue he causes a riff in the shop. I still have been unable to figure out how he can flush the oil out of a cooling system after a cooler failure without running the engine up to temperature. I usually have to pull the top hose to get the goo out of the way so the soap will even flow through. I have found that most people have no idea how tight 21-26 ft/lbs really is. My favorite tool is my 3/8" Makita impact for disassembly and assembly. I use it to run in all the hardware, then put a torque wrench it to final torque, NOT TOO MAKE THE WRENCH CLICK!!!!!!!!!! I know I go overboard but as time goes on I find it takes zero time to do it right once. The King uses blue lock tite on exhaust manifold nuts because he says CATs exhaust nuts are not locking nuts. No one has bothered to point out the fact that locking nuts come in many stlyes and ny-lock nuts would work as well as lock tite does at 900F. He has trouble with self adjusting clutchs(cant figure out why they dont work when he takes them off with out installing the shipping bolts or installing new clutches by first removing the shipping bolts before installation) so explaining how a lock nut works was like explaining to him that he had a failed head gasket and not a cracked liner when he saw coolant running dsown the inside of the liner by the piston rings. Then there was the time he spent 2 days UNSUCCESSFULLY trying to figure out why a bus would not build air because the dryer valve was stuck open and someone told him to check it. Keep in mind he is 'Experienced' and worked several years for a Peterbilt Dealer. The funny thing is he never repairs his work, everyone else does. Venting Complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 A torque multiplier is definitely needed for that but as i mentioned somewhere in the forums I am not buying one to torque one or two fasteners.I bought a new Snap On torque multiplier on Ebay for a couple hundred bucks to use when torquing 6.0 head bolts on the 3-90 degree turns. You can use one hand on the last 90 degree turn and it's easier on your back. I also had to replace a ring and pinion on an F-450 and the pinion nut torques to 800-1000 lbs. I used the torque multiplier and it still wasn't easy but it's the only safe way to do it. So you can use the torque multiplier on more than a couple bolts, it was well worth the money to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 F-450 track bar bolt is in the 400 lb ft range, they will make noise if not to this spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Guys tell me my big 600 LB/FT torque wrench is the cat's ass but it just ain't enough. I am almost convinced to get a multiplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I am almost convinced to get a multiplier. While you have your wallet out you need to break down and buy a topside creaper also. I finally bought one a few months ago and I love it. It's nice to have to work on 7.3's and 6.0's but I think it's a necessity when working on 6.4's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 We have a Matco topside creeper, and although it does make workin on these things easier; however, I did find it rather rough on the ol' pouch, as well as I don't think it's built to hold a 275lb guy up. Looks a little flimsy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeuiTim Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Keith, That should be a shop tool, not something you should have to buy. We have a required tool list, anything above 1/2" is usually considered a specialty tool. We are supplied with 3/4 and 1" guns, even 3/4" torque wrenches(I have my own). I bet rotunda has multipliers in their catalog. http://www.geartronics.com/x4home.htm Cheaper than I thought, Landmesser sells them for around $ 220 but I still consider it a specialty tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.