Jump to content

6.4 Turbo removal-cab on

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

Has anyone had to do this yet? Im looking for some tips to make it as painless as possible. I had an oil leak that seems to have been coming from the top of the dipstick tube. I checked the bottom o ring which was fine. Decided to do a crankcase pressure test and found it to be at the upper threshold of 8 in. h20 @3000psi. Disconnected VGT actuator and that number dropped to 4 inches of h20 leading me to believe the turbo seal was blown and pressurizing the crankcase. Hotline seem to agree with me and wants me to remove turbos, block off oil feed and retest. If the CCP is still @ 4 I have to replace the Hi-pressure turbo? Any advice?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check oil dipstick tube bracket had one eating my lunch and come to find out it was the bracket spot welds on the oil dipstick tube bracket

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Believe it or not, I just removed a turbo today with the cab on. When I first saw one of the guys in my shop do it, it took him days, and it looked awful... well, I removed mine in less than 3 hours...

Assuming the air duct and CAC tubes and turbo oil lines, heat-shield, etc. are off... Remove the fuel cooler and bracket, remove the EBP tube, unbolt the EDOC pipe from the horizontal EGR cooler and RHS turbo inlet pipe and the 10mm bolt from the EDOC to cylinder head mounting bracket just so the EDOC pipe is loose and able to move around. Unbolt the turbo down-pipe from the DOC and remove the down-pipe to turbo clamp and position the down-pipe aside so you can get at the inlet pipe bolts. The two lower inside bolts require the use of a half-moon wrench to remove, but the rest were removed by wrench. Remove the two hold-down bolts, and viola!

Keeping in mind that I had to remove the turbo to get at the HPFP because I have an ITEC service rep. at the dealer to help diag a problem truck, I have yet to install the turbo, and don't exactly know how difficult it will be to torque back up... but it does not "look" difficult...

To make a long story short, it was really not that difficult at all to remove... and I owe somebody an appology for calling him a super-hero, but that's a whole different story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10mm flex socket on an 18" extension. You can get it in between the EDOC and the LHS turbo inlet pipe from underneath. There is enough room for you to put your hand behind the pipes to feel the bolt and line up the socket. Don't remove the bracket from the head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasn't quite sure about how to get that bolt either... turns out the FSE we have with us this week knew about it. Our shop is equipped with only inground 2 post hoists (they can lift a dump truck, but not a cab), so cab removal is not an option at this time. And don't worry, he is with International, not Ford... so that means the procedure used isn't going to fall into the wrong hands... hopefully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so that means the procedure used isn't going to fall into the wrong hands... hopefully.

So you are saying that there is a better procedure for doing this that wont be shared which could help a lot of people do their jobs better and more efficiently simply because if Ford discovers it they will cut labor times? I am not citing you for not sharing but it is apparently unfortunate that this is the climate we now work in...

 

How truly sad "things" have become. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, you're right Keith. I didn't mean it in the sense that I don't want people (Ford) to know how I did it... just perhaps they don't need to know how long it took. It worked very well. The turbo is back in now, bolted up and pipes torqued... Torquing was a bit difficult, but I managed nonetheless. I posted the procedure just as I did it, and feel that even if cab removal were possible at my dealer, I would still do it this way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Come on Alex!!!! Don't hold back share with all of the guys here, just don't share with Mother. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

I'm not holding back, Larry. I posted exactly what I did. In a nut shell, we were able to replace the HPFP cover gasket, all the fuel injectors, both HP fuel rails and a few other things in a day and a half with the cab on. Working on this thing with the cab on was not nearly as difficult as it has been made out to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I followed the procedure outlined in this post (thanks Alex) when I replaced both turbos on the F550 6.4 that I fixed last Thursday and it works just as reported. With these hints, it took me about 7 hours to do. On this truck it was much better, because our racks won't lift anything bigger than an F350. Also, I didn't have to unhook all of the added on wiring and PTO stuff (its a service truck). I did not have to remove any of the inlet pipes or EGR DOC pipe from the truck, so I don't know how hard they are to do with the cab on, but the turbos were not too bad. Having done turbos both ways now, I think cab on is a good option depending on the situation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...