DamageINC Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I've done these before, but it's been a while. The customer supplied the studs but didn't leave the instructions, I can't seem to find the torquing specs online for these things. Anyone here know the process for torquing the ARP studs on a 6.0?? I need the specs for the studs AND the nuts. Thanks in advance, homies. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 Why not contact ARP and ask them? Here is the link http://www.arp-bolts.com/Contact/Contact.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 IIRC, you screw the studs in finger tight. Lube up your washers and nuts, and tighten them to 245 ft/lbs in three stages. Use the standard pattern - work from the center out. I've put in several sets - never had a problem with them. They take longer than the regular head bolts, but I think they do a much better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 I've put in several sets - never had a problem with them. They take longer than the regular head bolts, but I think they do a much better job. How do they take longer, I think they're better and save ure back from repeated torqueing with the factory one's. One step instead of 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 We're not talking an extra 2 hours, here, but between laying out all the washers and nuts, dollop of lube on each one, and screwing all the studs in by hand, it's a little longer than the OEM way - maybe 30 minutes or so.. As for torquing, you're making 3 pulls on each nut, just like the OEM bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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