Keith Browning Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 So I am replaced a high pressure turbo, my first, and before I got to the point of assembly I decided to read the book. Has anyone done this yet? I had a problem getting the actuator rod out of the lever because the unison ring was jammed... anyway, back to the book. You are supposed to measure the gap between the turbos for reassembly. When you get to reassembly by installing new seal and gasket and setting up the tool the book tells you to assemble it to the gap measured on disassembly. "The turbochargers do not go flush together. Remove the tool when the gap equals the measurement taken during the disassembly." then THE VERY NEXT SENTENCE: "Using the special tool, assemble the turbocharger assembly. Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in)." I did not measure the gap beforehand, but I did recall the gasket being squeezed in there. Torquing the install tool achieved that. It seems you would want the gasket crushed a little, no? Anyway, It went together without issues so I don't see how this gap setting is crucial or even needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 I have replaced two high pressure turbos and have had no problems with it. I also did not check the gap and both went on the truck just fine. One of the turbos I did fell apart taking it off the engine so there was no way to measure a gap on that one. Were you able to get the vgt actuator off of the turbos? I tried the puller on both and ended up damaging the actuator rods on both of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 6, 2008 Author Share Posted June 6, 2008 I got it off alright! I couldn't get a puller on the lever so I resorted to a punch which quite effectively snapped the lever off of the turbo. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif Since I already had the punch in my hand and the actuator was unbolted I finished it off on my vise.Pressing it into the new turbo was not as easy as it looks either. Use a c-clamp and a socket. Simple enough but my borrowed c-clamp did not fit squarely due to clearance believe it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HGM Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I'm a little late here, but I'm doing a little reading on past posts... I thought I'd give you a reasoning for the gap measurement.. If you look at the procedure and use the tool as recomended. The tool fits in that gap. If the turbo's are flush, the tool wont fit. The sealing is not done at the gap, there's no gasket there. You'll notice its at the sealing doughnut inside the turbo. A mere technicality if you dont use the tool. HOWEVER, the gap is also an indicator of the turbo spacing required to make sure the oil drainback tube is orriented properly when it is reinstalled on the dowel pins.. BTW, the early turbo's had spacers to make sure you couldnt tighten them too closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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