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Obviously this is one of those areas that everyone has their own preference, personally I perfer cab off but if I have to do it cab on so be it. As far as squeaks and rattles go you're far more likely to have those doing the cab on method due to the amount of crap you have to remove to access the engine.

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sounds like that guy that does the bed plate act works for aces2. No need to be a hero,Pull the cab guy! youll love yourself later.

AGREED. The question isn't how long it takes pulling the heads off. It's HOW do you torque the bolts PROPERLY. The last time I was ever taught the proper method for torquing bolts that are torque-to-yield specs, you are NOT supposed to stop in the middle of tightening step. I can't conceive in my mind how this would even be possible with the cab in the way.
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It's HOW do you torque the bolts PROPERLY. The last time I was ever taught the proper method for torquing bolts that are torque-to-yield specs, you are NOT supposed to stop in the middle of tightening step. I can't conceive in my mind how this would even be possible with the cab in the way.

Excellent point. I wonder what Ford would say in response to that.

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I pulled the heads this morning in about 4 hours. When I torque them im in the engine compartment sitting on the radiator support with my legs spread out on the frame rails. If im torquing the left head I have the motormount nuts off on the left side, right side nuts are in. Jack up the transmission at the bellhousing. this makes the engine's right side lean over and raises the left side making access easier and vice versa. If stopping in the middle of the step was a problem, you would be torquing each head bolt 270 degrees without stopping(90x3). I've been doing it like this for a little over 2 years now. I've never had a repeat headgasket repair. It sounds much more complicated than it is. But as it was previously said, everyone has a preference. This is a picture of the truck this morning with the heads off. And no, I don't do bedplates in chassis. I pull the engine.

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So thats how you got that screen name. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

maybe "BustedNutsack" or "HerniatedDisc's" would be a more appropriate name. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif

To each there own but I'll put the cab and torque the heads with my feet firmly on the floor, not spread eagle with the hood latch stuck in my ass /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

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I can agree with Mike on this one.

 

It says 90 degrees x3, not 30, then 60. Then 60, then 30, then 45, then 45.

 

Just my opinion. I can't get my fat ass up in there anyways.

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I have done countless sets of these things, never removed a cab once, and definately never been able to perform the final torque steps without ratcheting... and never had one come-back... I don't see it being an issue...

I remember at a Cummins course I was at... a few heavy truck guys were saying that you are supposed to final tighten the TTY bolts on the bottom end with a gun.

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I remember at a Cummins course I was at... a few heavy truck guys were saying that you are supposed to final tighten the TTY bolts on the bottom end with a gun.

I use a steel hollow jack handle over my johnson bar for extra leverage during the final torquing sequence.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Originally Posted By: AlexBruene
I remember at a Cummins course I was at... a few heavy truck guys were saying that you are supposed to final tighten the TTY bolts on the bottom end with a gun.
I use a steel hollow jack handle over my johnson bar for extra leverage during the final torquing sequence.

I have a 6' handle 3/4" ratchet and a "somewhat modified" 3/4" shallow 6pt 18mm socket... does every single bolt but the left rear lower without breaking a sweat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I hadnt heard that before that you should not stop in a step with a tty fastener. Kind of make some sense. At my dealership we use an impact to turn our bolts. Hell even in the CAT training video for C-12 head gaskets the techs in the video use a impact to turn the bolts. We also use an impact to turn our rods and mains. I cant imagine trying to use a breaker bar on mains in chassis for a rod and main roll in on a truck. I had to do a set by had one time on a 3408 in a dozer. It took two of us a whole morning and three chiropractor visits each. What a pain.

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You can all do it anyway you want, but I still prefer 245 ft/lb's on a set of ARP studs with the cab off. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif Simplicity just makes sense to me. Kinda like a V10 vs. a 6.4L.

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are you implying you would rather have a v-10 than a 6.4?

Hmmm let me think about that. 17 or 18 MPG with a V10 vs 7 or 8 MPG with a 6.4L. $8000.00 less for a V10 vs high maintenance costs and tons of down time and all the headaches when the 6.4L breaks ( and break, it will) vs a gravy tuneup once in a while. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

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go with a 7.3 since they wont launch spark plugs through your hood /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

A V10 3-valve engine is the other extreme, the plugs will seize up in the heads.
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Originally Posted By: rockbronco
go with a 7.3 since they wont launch spark plugs through your hood /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif
A V10 3-valve engine is the other extreme, the plugs will seize up in the heads.

I do agree with you Mike. Not much we can do to avoid any headaches anymore.

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Not only that, but I forgot to mention that the spark plugs have changed up for the 08's back to traditional style plugs. So maybe these new ones will be better. And the spark plug issue could still be worked on from under the hood with alot less greaf than working on a 6.4L

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