HELP!!! 7.3L E-series #3,#7 injector

BustedKnucklez · August 12, 2008

I have a stupid (wah)ambulance that I need to replace the #3 and #7 injector on. According to the WSM I have to remove the LH motor mount but cant seem to get it without removing the oil cooler which the WSM says nothing about. I've never done this before and am having a hell of a time getting the mount out. Are there any tips or am I missing anything that anyone can help me out on? All this on the floor /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

Shlep · August 12, 2008

Well #7 shouldn't be a problem, but #3 might be a challenge or is it #5.... it's been awhile since I did an E series. I've found it easier to simply unbolt the solenoid and swap put the injector and reattach the new solenoid on what ever cylinder you can't get the damn thing out of... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

mchan68 · August 12, 2008

Well #7 shouldn't be a problem, but #3 might be a challenge or is it #5.... it's been awhile since I did an E series. I've found it easier to simply unbolt the solenoid and swap put the injector and reattach the new solenoid on what ever cylinder you can't get the damn thing out of... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

It is cylinder #3. And yes I agree with that method. Look on the bright side, it's a 7.3L ambulance and not a 6.0L.

Mekanik · August 12, 2008

Well #7 shouldn't be a problem, but #3 might be a challenge or is it #5.... it's been awhile since I did an E series. I've found it easier to simply unbolt the solenoid and swap put the injector and reattach the new solenoid on what ever cylinder you can't get the damn thing out of... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

+1 I actually had a Ford Instructor suggest this to me. You probably won't have to mess with the engine mount.

A 7.3l ambulance should be much easier to work on than a 6.0l ambulance or little bus. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

BustedKnucklez · August 12, 2008

Do you mean the electronics square thing on the top of the injector? Hmmm....never thought of that. Does it never not work?

mchan68 · August 12, 2008

Do you mean the electronics square thing on the top of the injector? Hmmm....never thought of that. Does it never not work?

Yes. I believe they are four tamper proof Torx heads. And no, you don't need to touch the engine mount. If you were to be removing all injectors on that bank, cylinder #3 is the last injector to remove, and the first one to re-install.

Alex Bruene · August 12, 2008

They're not tamper-proof. They are just regular T-20 screws. I find using the TFI module ratchet wrench works like a charm!

BustedKnucklez · August 12, 2008

From what Im understanding is im to remove the solenoid so that I can pull the injector. Or am I to swap the solenoids only? Sorry to sound dumb but this is the first 7.3 E series I've done injectors on. Thanks in advance.

Bruce Amacker · August 12, 2008

Use the Torx to remove the magnet on the old injector, then remove the old injector. Remove the new magnet from the new injector, this will give you enough clearance to install the injector (less magnet) into the head. Then install the new magnet on the new injector after the injector body is torqued to the head. It's really easier than it sounds and there's no springs, balls, or other little parts in there to lose, just an aluminum spacer.

Good Luck!

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ktmlew · August 12, 2008

Use the Torx to remove the magnet on the old injector, then remove the old injector. Remove the new magnet from the new injector, this will give you enough clearance to install the injector (less magnet) into the head. Then install the new magnet on the new injector after the injector body is torqued to the head. It's really easier than it sounds and there's no springs, balls, or other little parts in there to lose, just an aluminum spacer.

Good Luck!

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Very cool procedure!!!

Keith Browning · August 13, 2008

Use the Torx to remove the magnet on the old injector, then remove the old injector. Remove the new magnet from the new injector, this will give you enough clearance to install the injector (less magnet) into the head. Then install the new magnet on the new injector after the injector body is torqued to the head. It's really easier than it sounds and there's no springs, balls, or other little parts in there to lose, just an aluminum spacer.

Good Luck!

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Silly question Mr. Amacker: What is the torque specification on those four bolts holding the magnet on? Since injectors are not a field serviceable item this is not an easy spec to find. I would think this is something we wouldn't want to loosen or strip.

Bruce Amacker · August 13, 2008

What is the torque specification on those four bolts holding the magnet on? Since injectors are not a field serviceable item this is not an easy spec to find. I would think this is something we wouldn't want to loosen or strip.

Kind of a moot point, isn't it? I don't think you're gonna get a torque wrench in there anyway. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

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I'm pissed. I have an IH TSI that shows how to shim the injector magnet to prevent false injector codes, and it would have the torque spec. I can't find it. Some TSI's aren't published- they're kind of silent. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

eastendpowerstroke · August 13, 2008

Originally Posted By: Keith Browning

What is the torque specification on those four bolts holding the magnet on? Since injectors are not a field serviceable item this is not an easy spec to find. I would think this is something we wouldn't want to loosen or strip.

Kind of a moot point, isn't it? I don't think you're gonna get a torque wrench in there anyway. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

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Yeah what Bruce said.... and even if you had a torque spec it apparently isn't enough/to much in the first place because I've seen a ton of them loose. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Keith Browning · August 13, 2008

Kind of a moot point, isn't it? I don't think you're gonna get a torque wrench in there anyway.

You are probably right but some jerk HAD to ask. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif If it wasn't me I am sure one of you... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tomato.gif

ktmlew · August 13, 2008

Originally Posted By: Bruce Amacker

Originally Posted By: Keith Browning

What is the torque specification on those four bolts holding the magnet on? Since injectors are not a field serviceable item this is not an easy spec to find. I would think this is something we wouldn't want to loosen or strip.

Kind of a moot point, isn't it? I don't think you're gonna get a torque wrench in there anyway. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Yeah what Bruce said.... and even if you had a torque spec it apparently isn't enough/to much in the first place because I've seen a ton of them loose. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Do they come loctited? Or should they be?

Alex Bruene · August 13, 2008

I wouldn't loctite them... they can be pretty stubborn to remove at times as the recess is not as deep as other fastners and are prone to stripping... IMO anyway...

BustedKnucklez · August 14, 2008

Thanks for the help guys. I got it done. That worked like a charm and no codes. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

Joey Kaylor · September 12, 2008

I wouldn't loctite them... they can be pretty stubborn to remove at times as the recess is not as deep as other fastners and are prone to stripping... IMO anyway...

I may be grasping here...but I seem to recall it being a Torx Plus T20, which is why a standard torx socket will strip them if you go too hard.

and of course I cant find my damn note book on these things on my shithole of a desk....