Getting better at swapping engines

GregH · September 20, 2008

Well, I've just finished installing my second 6.4L... It's getting easier to swap them now that I've had some practice.

First engine failed due to lack of lubrication. A turbo seal failed, causing all the oil to be pumped into the exhaust. The driver kept on driving it until it quit. He didn't notice anything wrong, since the oil pressure warning lamp is a green icon on the message center.

Second engine came in with low compression on 2, 7, and 8, and a solid misfire on cylinder #2. Grossly overfilled crankcase, 12,000 miles since the last oil change, and the engine tried to run away on me - the engine speed ramped up quicker than normal when patting the throttle, and it didn't slow down when I got off the pedal. After turning off the key, then engine ran for another 7 or 8 seconds before slowing down. 3 quarts of oil in the CAC... After removing the cylinder heads, I found no damage on #7, but melted pistons on 2 and 8 with significant transfer of metal to the head. New head and short block pushed me right up to the $9500 cost cap, not counting the labor.

Luckily, the paint marks on the floor were still there from the last engine!

Ahh, the 126 is really shot to shit now...

Oh, and this was all going on while an auditor was there.

Keith Browning · September 20, 2008

The driver kept on driving it until it quit. He didn't notice anything wrong, since the oil pressure warning lamp is a green icon on the message center.

Two examples of utter stupidity. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

Jim Warman · September 20, 2008

Two examples of utter stupidity. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

Sadly, things like this are no longer "utterly stupid"... This is the way of the world... the new "accepted industry standard".... If the thing can be coaxed into startint, then start it. If it can be coaxed into moving, then move it. It isn't broken until it acts like a poorly rendered birdbath - bereft of any and all motion or noise.

Once the operator has made sure that it is well and truly broken, he can now wonder why vehicle repairs always cost so much and take so long....

On our last trip to Edmonton, we saw a pick up snarling traffic at rush hour - every last exhaust hanger was broken and the tail pipe was firmly wedged under one rear tire.... It wasn't until the truck went from "moving" to "non-moving" that it made the transition from not broken to broken...

Taking this a step further... one would think that the only 'proper' way to attend ones doctors appointment would have us be delivered to his office in a coffin.

The main reason I go to work is because I want to see what happens next....

BustedKnucklez · September 25, 2008

How did that second engine exceed the cost cap? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

I recently did a short block on 1 due to a bent #8 rod. I replaced both heads due to cracks on the valve seats in most of the cylinders. Replaced #8 injector due to it leaking causing the bent rod. Replaced the oil cooler because the oil cooler gaskets weren't available. With all this including labor, according to prior approval, I was at about $8,900 including labor. Also replaced map sensor due to heavy coking, and egrt1. I was praying to go over the cost cap to just do a complete engine. No such luck. Had to do it. It was my first shortblock on a 6.4 Damn thing ran great after that.