mlee Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 are engineers really this retarded? the last 3 egt sensors i have tried to change have all been welded to the dpf of cat. and these are nowhere near high milers. a job that should take 3 minutes ends up taking hours. the one i attempted to remove this morning is now getting a $3000 dpf that is 7 days away because an $80 sensor is welded to it. we are currently in the red on our 126's so every major repair needs some backup and justification. so i called hotline on this, "heat it with a torch until it is almost melting hot, if it won't come out then, you will never get it out. install a new dpf". and ford wonders why they are in financial trouble, and sooo many dealers have high 126's. rant over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I think many of us have had to deal with this. Heat is the answer as you were told. Unfortunately that is just how it is. Remember to apply anti-seize compound to the sensor threads when installing. It's Friday, go have a cold beer. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlee Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 the beer will flow freely tonight, lol. it just still baffles me. i always use antisieze on exhaust threads, or any other thread i feel has the potential to cause a problem, and heat, well this egt sensor finally puddled itself into the dpf. why can't the factory impose the same practices we use every day? can you tell i'm having a bad day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 are engineers really this retarded? the last 3 egt sensors i have tried to change have all been welded to the dpf of cat. and these are nowhere near high milers. a job that should take 3 minutes ends up taking hours. the one i attempted to remove this morning is now getting a $3000 dpf that is 7 days away because an $80 sensor is welded to it. we are currently in the red on our 126's so every major repair needs some backup and justification. so i called hotline on this, "heat it with a torch until it is almost melting hot, if it won't come out then, you will never get it out. install a new dpf". and ford wonders why they are in financial trouble, and sooo many dealers have high 126's. rant over.Now I don't feel so bad. The exact same thing happened to me awhile ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 It sucks. the threads break loose. It feels like it is going to come right out. The nut is turning without a problem and then it just stops. The next thing you know your pulling the trans down in order to remove the RH turbo up-pipe. Aggrivated that you spent way too much time trying to sneak the downpipe out without removing the trans. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif Tony is really going to miss this. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasgasman Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 I spray the nut with combustion chamber cleaner, cut the sensor off and use a 13mm six point socket with a 1/2 breaker bar. Anyone figure out why the #3 sensor is always bent over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 It sucks. the threads break loose. It feels like it is going to come right out. The nut is turning without a problem and then it just stops. The next thing you know your pulling the trans down in order to remove the RH turbo up-pipe. Aggrivated that you spent way too much time trying to sneak the downpipe out without removing the trans. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif Tony is really going to miss this. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Haha....You got that right. The past year ive done a 180 and cited with the customer, and thought to myself...what if this was my truck and they told me what i'm about to tell them. Ford's bullcrap is getting old and I will do anything to help the customer out. They are the one's that keep us open, they are the ones that keep Ford alive. More and more customer's thank me for helping them out and going the extra mile. Remember, Happy customer's tell their friend's about their good service experience. Back to the topic.... I haven't had any trouble getting them out if I use my torch. I usually heat it up a little, then try...then heat more...then try...then heat more...until it finally comes loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 It sucks. the threads break loose. It feels like it is going to come right out. The nut is turning without a problem and then it just stops. The next thing you know your pulling the trans down in order to remove the RH turbo up-pipe. Aggrivated that you spent way too much time trying to sneak the downpipe out without removing the trans. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif Tony is really going to miss this. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Haha....You got that right. The past year ive done a 180 and cited with the customer, and thought to myself...what if this was my truck and they told me what i'm about to tell them. Ford's bullcrap is getting old and I will do anything to help the customer out. They are the one's that keep us open, they are the ones that keep Ford alive. More and more customer's thank me for helping them out and going the extra mile. Remember, Happy customer's tell their friend's about their good service experience. Back to the topic.... I haven't had any trouble getting them out if I use my torch. I usually heat it up a little, then try...then heat more...then try...then heat more...until it finally comes loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lraffe1 Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 I did one last weak heated to point of melting could break loose. I cut off senor reheated used big ass ratch and pulled threads. can't wait till out of warranty and have to till customer they need a two thousand dallor part to replace a hundred dallor sensor. just got a love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toby Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I am glad that we are not the only ones with this issue. I have on in now with 6k on it with a bad EGRT_A. So I went to replace it and low and behold its siezed. Heat was no help so this one is getting a pipe. Heat and try and heat and try didnt work, out came the threads. The really good news is that this truck has the dumbest lift kit I have ever seen that makes transmission crossmember removal literally impossible. So off comes the body. Fun stuff!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I was trying to remove a EGT from a brand new truck in the lot to put in a customer's because we didn't have the sensor. Would you believe that the EGT wouldn't come out of the brand new truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toby Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Got to love it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I was trying to remove a EGT from a brand new truck in the lot to put in a customer's because we didn't have the sensor. Would you believe that the EGT wouldn't come out of the brand new truck. U serious, now that, i've never had a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Tony I am dead serious. I have removed new EGTs from stock units twice before without a problem. This one was like all the others. I broke it loose. The nut turned about 3/4 turn and then just stopped. So I just tightened it back up and had parst order up a sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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