robp823 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Had an 06 f350 come in running rough.I found 2 dead cylinders on power balance. Ran relative compression and no problems there.I had DTC's for cylinder contribution for those cylinders and one crank sensor code with was not continous.So i just got finished today putting the injectors in but didnt fire it yet.Once i was all finished my service manager came out with a tsb ive never seen before about before replacing any injectors to always check the FICM first for proper operation.Usually when the FICM goes or is on its way out i will at least get one or two DTC's for it but had none, well except maybe the crank sensor code.Well my first question is have any of you guys ever just had a truck miss on one or two cylinders because of a bad FICM???? Usually i get a least one DTC for the FICM if its on its way out or the problem pertains to it.My second question is when you guys are removing the high pressure oil rail on the right head what are you using to get the 2 torx bolts that are right next to the heater core housing?Tried using a 1/4 t30 but cant quite fit it so my buddy has a lisle brand 1/4 t30 thats a little smaller that i can just get in there.Any tips or tricks appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 First question: Yes. We have seen a number of strange things. I have been noticing that FICM failures do not always set DTC's, when they do, it can be anything from (just a P0611 and nothing else with dead misfires) to (any combination of circuit codes.) FICM failures in my opinion are mysterious because there are several driveability conditions they can cause and a bit of an enigma due to the fact that sometimes you get a lot of DTC's, and sometimes you get NOTHING. Checking all of the circuits is a good practice and using the steps in the TSB goes well beyond pinpoint tests P. If all check out good sometimes you are still left with a decision to make, or in some instances, a guess. This is where one of those home-brew noid lights become useful. Second question: You need a short 1/4" drive torx bit socket is what it comes down to. I took a Craftsman socket, removed the bit and ground about 1/3 of it off at the base and reinserted it in the socket. This would probably work with most 2-piece torx bit sockets depending on how they are assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 As far as the FICM issue I usually see codes for FICM performance or related codes. As for the two torx I use a craftsman hand tool with a T30 bit. Works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Like already mentioned above, FICM failures can cause numerous symptoms from no-starts to "runs like a bag of shit". I too, have had FICM failures that have set NO DTCs, to having all eight injector circuit and contribution codes and/or P0611 and P1378 set, but most important of all, when monitoring FICM_L/FICM_M/FICM_V PIDs and see all three dropping as I attempt to start the engine and/or increase engine RPM, to me that's a telltale sign of a FICM failure. This is provided that battery voltage is good, as well as all circuits associated. As far as the two TX-30 high pressure oil rail bolts are concerned, my Blue Point angled bit driver works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 cool thanks for all the info guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Maybe I'm wrong here, but I usally don't dig too far into FICM diag unless I have: No start or hard start cold Electrical injector dtcs of FICM performance codes like p0611 I have 2 short t30 sockets that work really well for the oil resivoir. I don't know who made them. I actually got them because the guy that I replaced at the first dealer I ever worked at(1993) left them on his bench. I have used a torx bit and a small ratcheting 1/4 wrench, but I was always really scared that I would drop a bit into the engine. I do know people who have dropped a t30 bit into the engine of a 6.0 and never recovered it. One more thing I wanted to add, be sure to check fuel pressure with either the new tester with the valve open or using a fuel pressure guage driving down the road at WOT. Low or no fuel pressure will kill these injectors. I have a truck I'm working on right now that had 5psi with the valve open on the tester. I diaged the fuel system and replaced the pump. I re-tested it and the truck ran great. Two days later, it is back with two bad injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Ditto on that last statement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 ditto here the injectors 7 and 8 were the ones that failed i now found out that the guy never changed the fuel filters before until right before he brought it in with 46876 miles!!!He said he changed them and the truck ran good for a day so canceled appointment.A day later called back and said it was doing it again my my guess is those 2 injectors being the 2 at the back of the head on each side were starved fuel.Checked fuel pressure was in spec 45 psi returned to customer was running fine that was yesterday. called back today said it was missing again i have a feeling im going to be putting more injectors in.I was told that as throttle increases expect a couple psi drop in fuel pressure does this sound correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Rob, If you are using the new diesel fuel tester 310-193, with the valve open to simulate WOT, your minnimum spes is 45psi. If you do not have this tester you should check fuel pressure on the road starting from a stop up to 50MPH. Agian your minnimum spec is 45psi. If it is 45 psi at idle, then I would suspect you still have a problem. I have replaced a few regulators and a bunch of fuel pumps for this problem. Of course there could also be a restriction in the tank. You can test this by doing a restriction test, checking how much vacuum you have in the fuel line going to the pump from the fuel tank. BTW, I looked at my t30 socket. It is a "Truecraft". Sounds like it came from K Mart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Yes i was, this may sound stupid but i didnt know that simulated wot. I had exatcly 45 psi with valve open.closed around 55 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I drove the bit out of an old t-30 socket from Matco, trimmed it down and knurled it, then drove it into the box end of an old 8mm wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Yes i was, this may sound stupid but i didnt know that simulated wot. I had exatcly 45 psi with valve open.closed around 55 psi. Thats fine. Remebmber, you cannot fix a 6.0L. you can only treat it's symptoms. Kind of like herpes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 I use a Snap-on 1/4" ratchet that has a bit holder instead of a 1/4" stub and use a T-30 from my bit collection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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