dieseldoc Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I am wondering what the labor time is to replace a turbo on a 6.0. I think I found it in the labor standard times it should pay about 2 hours. Does that sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 That is correct. 9438A 2.0. Whether or not that is actually fair is another story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldoc Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 Thanks. Customer diagnosed himself and asked what it costs to replace. I told him I would have to look into it. Needless to say I will be diagnosing myself before I even order a part. I have not had the pleasure of changing a turbo on a 6.0 yet, but have read about your guys frustrations with this particular operation. I have purchased a few brand new 10mm sockets, that will be used only to change 6.0 turbos. I guess we will find out tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 What year? The bolts on 2003 and early 2004 are harder to remove than the newer ones. Late build 2004 and newer vehicles usally have missing turbo bolts. If it has inferred EBP, I would also perform the re-learn procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldoc Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 I am not sure, like I said the customer has not let me look at it. All he has told me is that he can hear a metal to metal type of squeak and there is smoke on acceleration and it is low on power. He thinks it is a turbo and I am not so sure it could be a lot of things. The learn procedure I will assume is done with the scan tool??? I do not have an IDS yet, will I be able to do this????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 2.0 Is the WARRANTY time to change it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 2.0 Is the WARRANTY time to change it...Just curious Aaron, what are YOU charging to replace it RETAIL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I remember getting the 6.0 turbo out in like 20minutes, and if all went well about 45minutes on the early ones. That stupid bolt in the rear pisses me off. I've pulled soo many turbos i could do it in my sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BustedKnucklez Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 If it's just an R&R it shouldn't be too bad. You obviously already asked to diagnose properly. If he continues to refuse, document that on the RO to CYA. I've had that situation. I wrote on the RO 'Customer refused to have technician diagnose vehicle.Customer advised replacement of coolant pump would not guarantee overheat problem would be resolved.' In this case, he was right and the pump was the problem. Either way I was covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I am not sure, like I said the customer has not let me look at it. All he has told me is that he can hear a metal to metal type of squeak and there is smoke on acceleration and it is low on power. He thinks it is a turbo and I am not so sure it could be a lot of things. The learn procedure I will assume is done with the scan tool??? I do not have an IDS yet, will I be able to do this????? Well I guess in theory you don't even need a scan tool to reset the VGT learn, but you will not know if it has been done successfully. If you can monitor VGT_LRN, VGTCNC, EOT TEMP, then you will be able to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Originally Posted By: Aaron 2.0 Is the WARRANTY time to change it... Just curious Aaron, what are YOU charging to replace it RETAIL? What is word....REE-TAYLE? I've never had to do one retail yet, so I've never really thought about it. What's the Chilton/Motor manual say it pays? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Alldata gives 2.2 hrs plus a 0.5 hrs for boost test and 0.2 hrs to clean cac tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Chilton manual here says 3.6 hrs for an 05 up 6.0 including cleaning CAC tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I like the fact we are looking this up. I am so used to doing little else than warranty work I usually short myself when asked unless I go look the time up in the Motors labor time guide. I wish I could get my Service Adviser to to this. At least some of the techs I work with are catching on. I think using these guides also keeps us all in line to a fair and more standard amount of labor. Good for karma and good for business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I like the fact we are looking this up. I am so used to doing little else than warranty work I usually short myself when asked unless I go look the time up in the Motors labor time guide. I wish I could get my Service Adviser to to this. At least some of the techs I work with are catching on. I think using these guides also keeps us all in line to a fair and more standard amount of labor. Good for karma and good for business....which is all good when your shop actually HAS a Chilton or Mitchell manual. Our manual only goes up to 2002 model year vehicles. I have brought this to my SM's attention NUMEROUS times and he has failed to to provide us with an updated one. I probably don't see nearly as many diesels floating through my shop as most of you here, so the likelihood that a new manual will arrive at our doors are slim to none. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I'd threaten a brutal book beating, if one isn't there by the end of the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Mitchel on demand says 2.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaysonfordtech Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 For us if there is a warranty time, but no CP time we use warranty plus 40%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
International Tech Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what would labor be in a 05 E350? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what would labor be in a 05 E350?2.8 hours to r & r the turbo + 0.7 hours to r & r the pedestal + 1.0 hour to r & r the unison ring. Those are WARRANTY times from Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what would labor be in a 05 E350? Not nearly enough.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Originally Posted By: International Tech what would labor be in a 05 E350? Not nearly enough.... +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixturbosix Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I use to hate to take the rear bolt out of the early 03-04 6.0l.I have even used the trick with a long pry bar to break them out if I rounded off the 10mm head fighting it but for about two years now I have been using my small Cornwell 3/8 impact with an air fitting on the end that swivels 90 degrees and a 10mm swivel socket.I release the rear pipe and push it down while stuffing my impact over it.Then I reach around the drivers side of the turbo and guide it on to the head of the bolt.Hit the trigger and bam it is out no problem.Have never had one stick or round off since and there have been many I have done.Trust me it will fit back there if you cram it but you do need the 90 degree swivel air fitting on your gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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