Keith Browning Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I thought this was brought up before somewhere... This TSB is the latest incarnation of EGR valve and coking diagnostics and repairs. The part that grabbed me on this one is the addition of this EGR Baffle Kit 6C3Z-9P449-A - see the animation. What happened to finding the root cause of the excessive crankcase vapors and reducing them? Is this REALLY going to stop vapors from collecting around the valve? I recall someone stating that a Hot-Line engineer thought it was ineffective. I would have thought Ford tested this and found it to be effective to some degree - after all, they put it in the TSB. I installed this one on a truck that really seemed to have nothing wrong with it than maybe a combination of an old calibration and excessive idling. The carbon on the sticky valve was sticky but there were no misfiring cylinders and the EGR cooler was not suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Just curious Keith. What did you claim for labour time? Notice how it's MT time. I did one of these on a city truck where the valve was completely plugged solid with carbon. I also opted to replace the intake, given that the passages were pretty plugged up too. This was on a low mileage '05 truck with about 45,000 kms. (around 28,000 miles). I had a fun time reinstalling the intake elbow too. I didn't think that little amount of space added would make THAT much of difference. My personal opinion would be that it just leaves another area for carbon to collect, thus making the problem even worse. I also notice that the PM-22-B and PM-23-B additives are INCLUDED in the parts list of the TSB. This means the customer doesn't have to pay for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 If I recall, the labor on this particular truck was pretty straight forward as the intake was not really plugged and only the valve was gummed up and clogged around the edges. I think it was all the common diagnostic labor ops and a minimum of .5 for decarbonizing the EGR mixer area. I spent time looking at injectors/enhanced cylinder contribution and fuel pressure for the most part. It looked like the guy was putting too much oil in it and idling a LOT! 16 quartz was scribbled on the fan shrouding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I had a fun time reinstalling the intake elbow too. I didn't think that little amount of space added would make THAT much of difference. Now THIS is a PAIN IN THE ASS. Gonna be some broken stators from this, I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Are you guys pulling the CAC tube off and then removing the intake elbow? I loosen both CAC clamps but not remove the tube. Then I unbolt the elbow and swing it all out of the way. This of course if for those clack plastic tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 That's what I did Keith, but even with putting the elbow back on, it moved the stud up enough that goes through the stator so it's a pain in the nuts to put back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 Now I see your problem. Yes. And guess what I broke putting the elbow back in place? At least I shot a couple pictures before I broke it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Maybe I'm just getting weak, but lately I have been having the hardest time getting that black CAC tube back on the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 It's simple, involves a prybar inserted into the left lifting bracket putting pressure on the tube and a plastic dead blow gently "bumping" the cac hose from the side to coax into place. Easiest and most painless way to keep your sanity. And no cac hoses are hurt in the procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I warm 'em up gently with the heat gun, kerchunk, they flop right on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I warm 'em up gently with the heat gun, kerchunk, they flop right on.That's exactly how I do it. If I had my way, I would DISCARD it and replace it with the aluminum tube and the two rubber ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Originally Posted By: Aaron I warm 'em up gently with the heat gun, kerchunk, they flop right on. That's exactly how I do it. If I had my way, I would DISCARD it and replace it with the aluminum tube and the two rubber ends. For sure. That plastic tube is JUNK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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