First cab off coming in Monday

BLittle500 · March 21, 2009

Hey guys,

2004 F-250 Crew Cab

I knew it was going to happen sooner or later, last week I diag'd a truck for head gaskets per a TSB. So the truck is supposed to come in Monday to get tore down. Anything I should be aware of on pulling my first cab? Is there actually a Ford procedure for pulling a cab?

Thanks for the info,

Brandon

robp823 · March 21, 2009

Well you don't have to pull the cab to do head gaskets but it makes torquing the heads down way easier and you will get more accurate torque.Ive done it both ways, its all personal preference.As for a procedure for pulling the cab on a 6.0, i dont think there is one.Just take your time raising it up and keep your eye on everything.Example i forgot to disconnect the parking brake cable on the first one i did Posted Image .Its looks like your in Pennsie as am i.What dealer ya work at?How far are ya from Scranton?

BLittle500 · March 21, 2009

I'm at Family Ford in Carlisle, were a good bit apart (I think). Scranton is way up North West isn't it?

Torquing the heads is the reason the guy before me would pull the cab, so I just figured if it worked for him, why not.

Thanks for the tip,

Brandon

Aaron · March 21, 2009

Makes it easier to put studs in it, too.

Ford does not have a procedure for pre-08 cabs because you aren't supposed to pull the cab to do heads Posted Image

Crew cab, you say? You will need to remove the back seat to get the center mount bolts out that are under the carpet.

DO NOT CLIP THE SHIFTER CABLE UP INTO THE CLIP ON THE FLOOR WHILE YOU HAVE THE CAB UP IN THE AIR. You set the cab down, and it squishes the shifter cable between the frame and the floor. Ask me how I know.

One side the bolts are 15/16" and the other are 13/16". (IIRC, the larger ones are on the RS)

Make sure to unbolt the power steering cooler from the lower rad support.

As Rob said, make sure you pull the ebrake cable out.

Take your pick at how you want to disconnect the brakes. You can pull the lines off at the master and take the HCU off the truck body and leave it with the frame, or undo the three lines from the HCU going to the truck. I've tried both and it's kind of a pain in the ass to get the HCU off the body, so from now on I'm going to pull the three lines and just tie the brake lines up to the engine. If you're not sure what I mean by it being a pain in the ass, you'll see once you get the LH battery tray and tray mounting bracket off.

Don't forget the ground strap that goes from the motor to the cowl, and there is also a ground strap that goes from the frame to the body on the RH side, right near the cab mount at the front of the driver's door.

Vacuum lines if it's a 4x4, disconnect at the elbow near the pump and tie to the motor.

Disconnect the MAP hose and leave the MAP mounted to the heaterbox.

I think Bruno had a set of actual instructions made up for this, he had posted his email on the Ford msg board to share them if you need them.

Brad Clayton · March 21, 2009

I consider it a back saver. I can do them both ways. If the cab has 200 hydralic hoses running into as in a town truck or something is over the cab, then sure I'll do it in chassis. But at the end of the day I have really got my ass kicked. Some people pull the front end so they can stand up and do the job. I can have the cab off as quick as that and it's cake after that. Been pulling cabs since '97 with the advent of the redesigned F-150.

I like to make things easy on myself and if it requires doing something a little diferent them I'm for it no matter what kinda critisism ensuses.

By the way I have lost count on how many heads and head gasket I have done on 6.9's and 7.3 IDI's. And they were all done in chassis. People tend to forget the problems that the older diesels exhibited when they are bashing the newer ones. The 7.3l DI wasn't perfect by any means either.

BLittle500 · March 23, 2009

Well, its up!

Now its off to the book to pull my first heads.

Thanks for all the info guys,

Brandon

robp823 · March 24, 2009

Hey Aaron, where can i get the instructions for it????My back is starting to hurt Posted Image

Mikill · March 24, 2009

Headgasket jobs or engine jobs get the cab off treatment from me if they can be removed. That goes for 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4.

Mekanik · March 24, 2009

Crew cab, you say? You will need to remove the back seat to get the center mount bolts out that are under the carpet.

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

Jeff_E · March 24, 2009

I've been pulling the front seats since 04 when the back seat became too heavy. 03's were a lot lighter for some reason. I'll have to try than hand ratcheting thing though, that may save some serious dinking around in terms of blowing fruit loop crumbs out of torx head bolts.

mchan68 · March 24, 2009

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

How do you get the frame bolts to go back in straight, with the carpet limiting your space?

Keith Browning · March 24, 2009

This is fine and dandy IF the bolts want to cooperate. On a few occasions I have had those bolts bind making hand removal the only option which really sux but what can you do. As for removing them, you don't need to really and leaving the bolts hanging helps with aligning the cab to the frame as you are lowering the cab 'cause they always seem to move while you are working on them. Posted Image

Mekanik · March 24, 2009

Originally Posted By: Mekanik

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

How do you get the frame bolts to go back in straight, with the carpet limiting your space?

I have never had a problem getting the bolts to go in straight and I always turn them a few turns by hand to make sure they are not cross-threaded.

Aaron · March 25, 2009

I never really thought of pulling the FRONT seats out...maybe this is the way to go so you don't need an extra set or two of hands to yank that heavy-ass back seat out. Did one today. NO FUN, I hate that you can't get the back seat(s) apart and gotta take 'er out all as one unit. Posted Image

mchan68 · March 25, 2009

I never really thought of pulling the FRONT seats out...maybe this is the way to go so you don't need an extra set or two of hands to yank that heavy-ass back seat out. Did one today. NO FUN, I hate that you can't get the back seat(s) apart and gotta take 'er out all as one unit.

Yeah, I know. For me the biggest concern is finding an "assistant" in the shop to actually help me remove the seat WITHOUT scratching the rear door panel on the way out.

robp823 · March 25, 2009

Hmmmmmm never even thought of taking the seats out.Ill keep this is mind for next time if it makes things easier.O and there will be a next time Posted Image

BrunoWilimek · March 25, 2009

I think Bruno had a set of actual instructions made up for this, he had posted his email on the Ford msg board to share them if you need them.

My e-mail is brunowilimek @hotmail.com if you want a set. I printed it off from somewhere and have since edited it to suit me.

BrunoWilimek · March 25, 2009

Originally Posted By: Mekanik

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

How do you get the frame bolts to go back in straight, with the carpet limiting your space?

I recently re-did one that had been done at another dealer previously. Quite the butcher job-he actually cut the carpet to access the centre bolts and not even in the exact right spot! Posted Image

Sure made it easy for me however, as I didn't need to remove the seats. The customer sure was pissed at the other shop and didn't want to return there, ever. I use lots of anti-seize on the bolts and start them by hand and if they don't quite line up, I nudge the cab in the appropriate direction while lifting it just a bit. Anti-seize on the top of the mounts where the contact the body helps to make it slide easier. I start all the bolts before tightening any. Posted Image

Mekanik · March 26, 2009

Originally Posted By: mchan68

Originally Posted By: Mekanik

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

How do you get the frame bolts to go back in straight, with the carpet limiting your space?

I recently re-did one that had been done at another dealer previously. Quite the butcher job-he actually cut the carpet to access the centre bolts and not even in the exact right spot! Sure made it easy for me however, as I didn't need to remove the seats. The customer sure was pissed at the other shop and didn't want to return there, ever. I use lots of anti-seize on the bolts and start them by hand and if they don't quite line up, I nudge the cab in the appropriate direction while lifting it just a bit. Anti-seize on the top of the mounts where the contact the body helps to make it slide easier. I start all the bolts before tightening any.

Maybe I should have mentioned that I move the body around a little bit so it is in the exact spot it was when it came in before I tighten the bolts. I think that is the biggest problem getting the bolts to go in straight. If it is in the right sopt I should be able to drop the bolt and start it by hand. Also those bolts under the carpet are the last ones that I put in.

I think its also important to take a good look at those mounts that the bolt threads into. If it is not in the right posioion it will not go all the way up to the body.

Aaron · March 27, 2009

The one I put back together today had the living guts undercoated out of it - so it was easy to see where the cab was sitting when I put it back together.