Mekanik Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 The guy working next to me is replacing the EGR Valve. He was having a really hard time using Ford's puller and then the valve broke off and is still stuck in the housing. Any tricks? Anyone else here run into this problem? I have never had to do a EGR Valve in a 6.4L yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 These things are sticking in the housings. The last one I had broke my tool and I ended up replacing the intake elbow. Got a good picture of this broken valve in the intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 These things are sticking in the housings. The last one I had broke my tool and I ended up replacing the intake elbow. Got a good picture of this broken valve in the intake? This is exactly the reason why I won't even bother attempting to remove the EGR valves on these things without having a housing in my hands. Screw them. I'm not wasting my time to fight with a part that doesn't want to come out on warranty's dime. Is everyone else slathering anti-seize onto the new valves before installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I was going to ask about the anti-seize too. I am coating the valve and the bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 First off, What ever engineer decided to stick an aluminum EGR valve into an aluminum intake and then introduce hot exhaust gases, boost and condensation is a FREAKING RETARD! As for tricks, I use penetrating fluid, a hammer and sometimes heat with a brazing tip. Be vewy vewy cawefull. I put pressure on the the puller and then beat the ever living hell out of the valve with an SVP (swinging variable press) while heating the snorkel around the valve with the brazing tip. every time the valve jumps, I put a little more pressure on the puller and just keep going until that piece of crap is out of there. I have been successful so far by doing it this way. I haven't used anti-seize yet, but I just may try it. I just didn't like the idea of a chemical like that inside the intake. But now I look at it with attitude of FUCK IT, I didn't build the piece of crap. Good luck to all with these MOFO's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I am just WAITING to get the first phone call from a "ginzo garage" requesting info on how to remove these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Yeah Rex... We chain them there egr's up to the engine hoist and start pumping. It's kinda like pulling teeth with a piece of string and a door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Never been able to get one out yet without either breaking the egr valve or the puller breaking.Now i just get the valve and the intake elbow and dont even waste my time.My service manager surprisingly agreed with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan302 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 First of all, hello to every one here ! My name is Jonathan. What a great idea to do this website Lots of info here WOW ... nice job Thanks to Bruno Wilimek for the link to this web site That's what i do to remove these suckers: Remove the intake elbow and put the elbow in the bench vice. Apply heat to the inside of the EGR valve by the hole where the EGR cooler connect. Apply some force to the EGR valve and it will come out easily. I have done a lot of EGR valve by this way and it works great. I also put some antiseize to the new valve (for the next time ) The puller is a real PIECE OF SHIT ... Please apologize me for my english,i'm a french Ford tech so i will try to do my best to make you understand me well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Jonathan, your English is showing! Thank you for the kind feedback on the site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Thanks for all the feedback guys. The guy I work next to managed to get the broken EGR Valve out. The guy is good. His air chisel is like an extension of his right arm. This is the same guy last week that was removing a broken plug in a 3 valve 5.4L and broke the tool off in the spark plug. He was able to extract the broken tool and then remove the spark plug. When you guys break the Ford puller, does your dealer have to buy another one or is there a warranty on the puller? Because if the shop is going to have to spend $300.00, we might as well order the elbow too. I can totally see a revised removal procedure with a WAN in the furure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I have yet had to remove an EGR valve from the 6.4 beast but I have seen a couple of techs in the shop use an air hammer to great success. They wedge the chisel in there and just work it up and out. The only damage occured is to the valve its self I believe but even that is just a slight mark from the chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cedartree Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 I have pulled a few now, broke that POS tool on the first one, haven't used it since. What I do is remove everything fragile from the area first, then rotate the 45 degree EGR valve coolant nipple out of the way, give the swing press enough room to gently destroy the top of the valve, by swinging at the motor part of the valve housing from as far under it as you can. right to left while perched on the hood latch. Once its decapitated, there's not much left of it but the shaft for the spool valve and some plastic. Two ways to go from here, weld old vise grips to a nut that screws on the end of your slide hammer, clamp them on the spool valve and work it out, or option #2 is to get under the remaining body of the valve and gradually work it out. Sometimes a combination of both. Haven't had to replace anything but the valve yet. Kind of a butcher way to do it, but it does work, and yes, I do make sure nothing is left in the bore, also I use the antiseize compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Oh the humanity! Such brutality! I sometimes feel like doing that to a valve when it won't come out. Are you aware that not only are the parts of your broken EGR puller warrantyable through Rotunda AND that the EGR puller has been redesigned and beefed up significantly? I would ask your service manager to take care of that tool problem you have. We have discussed this topic HERE And welcome to the DTS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 ... weld old vise grips to a nut that screws on the end of your slide hammer ... I've got an adapter in my slide hammer kit that replaces the screw in my vice grips. Has come in more handy than I ever thought! After I broke our tool, I used parts of the tool with my slide hammer to continue pulling on the old EGR valve. It would have worked too, if it weren't for those meddling kids... Turns out that particular EGR valve had become one with it's housing, and I don't think even the beefy tool would have pulled it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 This almost begs the question as to what point so you admit defeat, stop screwing around and replace the housing along with the valve? I assume that most of us at this point are applying Anti-Seize to the valves before installing them? This also begs the question as to why the factory does not after seeing the problems we are having. I am sure they would site cost as the reason but I am sure it would be a lot more cost effective than eventually having to replace all of these housings. Poor design? Let's think this out. Two aluminum parts with an almost press fit subjected to severe heat variations, moisture, carbon, acids and who knows what else. I can't help but ask why the valve to body clearance couldn't have been larger and used o-rings to seal as the EGR valves in the 6.0L used. Cheaper production from less machining and fewer parts? Again, in the end will it have been cheaper than having to replace all of these housings? Looking forward and applying the o-ring concept to EGR valves, were the o-rings not possible due to the heat they are subjected to? Remember that in both the 6.0L and the 6.4L the EGR valve is located on the "cold" side of the coolers. When we see the 6.7L engine the EGR valve will be on the hot side of the coolers to reduce coking. I wonder what surprises lay ahead for us there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 I tend to not fuck with those valves/housings too much. If it don't fuckin' come out with any of the conventional methods (puller, air hammer, plastic explosives...) Housing and valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 This almost begs the question as to what point so you admit defeat, stop screwing around and replace the housing along with the valve? That's easy.. After a "reasonable" amount of time... Originally Posted By: Keith Browning ... Anti-seize ... Anti-seize is a staple around here just like rust penetrant and brake cleaner. But I don't think it will ever make it onto a factory installed EGR valve. Ford seems to be overly concerned with it's use - remember the International version of the turbo cleaning TSB? They just about had us dip the exhaust side into a tub of antiseize and swirl it around. Once Ford got done writing their version, it's use was removed. I think Ford is concerned (rightly?) about the metals in antiseize migrating downstream to the catalytic convertor and/or the DPF. The antiseize would certainly survive a trip through the engine to end up in the exhaust, but I really can't see that small amount of metal making any difference. Maybe that's a reason the engineers are paid so much. To put the kibosh on a good idea that has a small chance of backfiring, then extrapolating the cost of failure across the vehicle population and claim it as savings, thereby justifying their salaries? I donno... maybe that's why I'm down here looking up through the glass ceiling... Thank goodness engineers wear pants! Originally Posted By: Keith Browning ... Poor design? ... aluminum parts with an almost press fit ... why the valve to body clearance couldn't have been larger and used o-rings to seal as the EGR valves in the 6.0L used ... When we see the 6.7L engine the EGR valve will be on the hot side of the coolers to reduce coking. Yes, they may be "trying out" this design before implementing it on the 6.7... Alternatively, there may have been cocnerns about the o-rings holding up on a 6.4 with a 6.0 EGR valve design. Boost level is higher, and the temperature differences are higher. And the relationship between Ford and International was not the best while this engine was being designed. International may have been giving us the finger while sketching out this setup... Originally Posted By: Keith Browning I wonder what surprises lay ahead for us there. The stuff of nightmares.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cetane Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 When we see the 6.7L engine the EGR valve will be on the hot side of the coolers to reduce coking. I wonder what surprises lay ahead for us there. Surprise...no puller required. It is integral to the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I like how cetane just drops small bits about the 6.7 just to give us a tease,keep them coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Hey fellers -- how are you claiming the replacement of the housing and what parts are you **ahem** removing to do so? I know how I do it -- but I can't seem to find a cut-and-dried procedure for the housing removal in the WSM -- I'm not sure if the vert cooler has to come off or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Techs over here claim removal of the vertical cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Good to know. Now I'll need to bill out clamps and all that shiz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreek Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 us too we claim removal of the vertical cooler and egr housing valve etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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