'09 F-150 broken exhaust valve spring

[mchan68]

I have one here that I can't seem to compress the valve spring enough to save my life. This would be tool number 303-1039 for a 5.4L 3-valve V8. Cylinder #5 exhaust valve decided to break. Now, the vehicle sits in my bay until I can figure out a way to compress the spring far enough to install the keepers.

[Steve Mutter]

the tool we had for the 3v would get used so much that it would bend out of shape,I always had to give it a little bend back everytime I used it to push the valve down to get the clearance

[rgarver]

I have found that the special tool simply does not have enough travel. I modified our shops tool with a 1/2 inch bolt and nut and was able to get a little extra travel to compress the spring enough to get the keepers out.

[mchan68]

I have found that the special tool simply does not have enough travel. I modified our shops tool with a 1/2 inch bolt and nut and was able to get a little extra travel to compress the spring enough to get the keepers out.

That's exactly the problem I'm having. The shop foreman and I spent hours trying to get the tool to work without success. It doesn't even appear to compress the spring 1mm.

[rgarver]

If I remember, (it has been a couple years,) I modified a turnbuckle nut (about an 1 1/2" long)from a hardware store to get the extra travel. The tool is at work and I'm trying to remember what I used but it worked good.If you have any questions I can get exact dimensions at work tomorrow.

[rgarver]

Here ya go!Remove thumb screw on top of tool,I used a turnbuckle nut 1 3/4" long(or you could weld 3-4 nuts together) screw nut on top of tool and then use 1/2"-13 bolt, 1 1/2" long as a forcing screw to push spring down.Keep bolt and nut in your toolbox for future use!Hope this helps.

[Brad Clayton]

You got any photos of this unit?

[BrunoWilimek]

I found if I added a washer to the tool on top of the center doodad(the d-shaped part that always wants to be in the wrong position)it allowed me to depress the spring a little further.

[rgarver]

I can post a picture probably on wednesday. Need Daughter to help since she has digital camera.

[fjubain]

I had e exact same problem with an 08 5.4l with only 11000km on it. Broken exhaust spring on #7.Did i even fight to with those keepers, called hotlineand told me it was the exct tool to use and had no report on this tool issue.I told them to try it and then give me a call.Sure would like some picture of that modified tool.

[rgarver]

OK, got it posted thanks to Daughter. (Learned a lot about computers from my kids.)It's in photopost and titled "3v valve spring compressor".Simple modification that has worked great for me and is easy to do.

[Bruce Amacker]

Ray:

 

After you put up the picture, there's a button to push near the bottom of the page that copies the picture link to your clipboard, which makes it easy to paste into your post like this:

 

 

 

Use a 1/2" inch turnbuckle nut and a 1 3/4" long 1/2"x13 bolt to get extra travel from tool to compress valve spring. Simply remove thumb screw and use this adapter.

 

 

Good Luck!

 

[BrunoWilimek]

the tool we had for the 3v would get used so much that it would bend out of shape,I always had to give it a little bend back everytime I used it to push the valve down to get the clearance

 

Same here. I noticed the foot had been bent which reduced the travel to the point the tool wouldn't work until I straightened it out. I modified ours by drilling through the top of the forcing screw and inserting a 1/2 inch diameter bolt that also gives a little extra travel when it is turned in. The basic problem is the tool is too flimsy for the job. I am going to get a new one ordered, but I think I will modify this one further by welding some re-inforcement ridges along the edge of the feet. I notice they bend way too easily when bending them back to the proper place. Also, when bent, the tool slips off the valve spring very easily.

[BrunoWilimek]

I have now had extensive experience using the tool on an 09 F150 with a 5.4 3 valve engine and have a few tips/observations to pass on. First, the manual says to remove 6 specific followers with the crankshaft damper spoke at the 12 o'clock position and timing mark at 1 o'clock, making sure to observe the position of the camshaft lobes as per the picture in the manual. However, I found in this position, the lobes did not line up as specified. I found that the crankshaft had to be rotated further counter-clockwise to achieve the proper lobe positioning. This actually is the position that timing chains can be installed, with the keyway at 9 o'clock. Second, when removing the rest of the followers, not only should the cam be on the base circle, but make darn sure the piston is far enough below TDC to avoid valve contact, as this will prevent fully depressing the valve springs. I removed all the spark plugs to allow easier crank rotations and also piston locating. The tool has to have the foot positioned properly on the top of the spring to prevent bending of the foot. I might have to add gussets to the top of the foot to strengthen it later, when the new tool I ordered arrives. I modified our tool by drilling out the top of the knurled knob, tapping it the same as the rest of the knob and inserting a bolt in this hole with a locknut to allow me to gain a little more depression on the valve spring. I hope this helps others using this tool. Another tip for those also removing the timing chains to prevent having to remove all the followers is this: As long as the chain is in the proper position prior to removal, mark the links at the two gears on both chains, as well as the gears/phasers. You can then re-install the components(transfer the marks to the exact spot on the new components if replacing parts with new ones)in their original locations.