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Cracked Branch Tubes

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Been workin' on an '05 E-350, low ICP.

Diag led to a failed HPOP,as the IPR had debris damage,no big deal, other than it's in a van.

Replaced HPOP,quick disconnect,and IPR as required,tried to start, not happening.

ICP is now at 30psi,before change was at 200psi.

Reperform air test,sounds like it's leaking back at the pump/connect/tubes,etc.

Spoke with hotline[first time in a long time!]and

they think that a tube may have been cracking,and install of the pump and connector finished it off.

Has anyone seen this,especially on the '05s?

I failed to mention, this was a stall,crank,no start.

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I have a 05 e350 6.0 with no(I mean 0 psi) ICP pressure. Same thing, stall, crank, no start. I have done the air pressure check and I feel/hear the leak on the right side where the push rods are for number 7 cylinder. I have checked the IPR(tried a new one thinking that when I acuated it, it would make some thunk noise or something during the air leak test but it was the same /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif ), O-rings at the HPOP and the quick connect...all good. I was also thinking that the stand pipe on the right side is cracked. I am a 6.0 virgin /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif It sound like we have to do the same repair.

How do you remove the stand pipe? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif I can't find it in the book. Is it like Marc said, remove the oil tube over the injectors, then remove the hold down bolt for it? Also, is a fact that I have to remove the right side motor mount to remove the valve cover?

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An Econoline with a 6 point O! I have been in your position a couple of times. If it's a "regular" van and can get to all of the body mounts, raising the body 3-4 inches will prove much easier and quicker.

 

I have found more torn injector oil inlet o-rings in the vans for some reason. I guess thats my kind of luck.

 

Once you get the oil tube off, getting the stand pipe free is hard because they tend to stick a little. I believe I used a pair of vice grips and a pry bar to get it out.

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I do. You can take off the end with the diaphragm and rod to use just the rubber tube. I extended mine by using a longer piece of small rubber hose. That way, you can remove the oil fill tube and shove it INSIDE the valve cover on the right side. On the left bank, you can remove the plug in the valve cover on the 2003 and early 2004 engines. On the later engines, you have to remove the crankcase breather after removing the FICM and bracket. It's not really that much work especially if you compare it to REMOVING the covers for a guess.

 

Any way, try it the way I described. If the leak is at an injector, you should find the hissing much louder and quite noticeable on that bank. If the noise level is the same, suspect the HPOP quick disconnect and so on. This method has worked well for me.

 

And hey! I did write an article on this last year. Some of these articles are not just for curious visitors wanting to know how we fix their trucks. I am sure this might help: 6.0L ICP system leaks If you find anything that is technically incorrect, DO let me know! If you have anything to add to the article, by all means, please let me know! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

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Good article Keith,

 

Just a couple things I have found that make it easier...

 

First off, I apply air before closing the IPR to allow most of the oil out.. You may not hear an air leak for 5 min or so if its a small one (no start hot)..

 

I prefer the V/C removed, but if you do it your way first it can narrow to one side or the other, might save a bit of time on one cover. Either way, when you find the leak, the covers need to come off..With the covers off, follow with the stethescope(heater hose, amplified EVAP leak detector, etc..) at the exhaust side of the injector/oil rail connection.

 

If there are no leaks found at the injectors, listen around the rear cylinder pushrods(7&8). This will not only identify a leak in the pump area, but if it is louder on one side vs the other, it can identify a leaking stand pipe.(last ditch effort to keep from removing turbo and intake)..

 

Some of you guys may be doing this already or have a system that works for you, but when sombody has a tough one, this can help..

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Like the article. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif For this being my first time, it gave me a really good idea on what this system looks like /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif .

The thing I don't understand is why did they make this HP oil system with so many connections for possible leaks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif ?

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Good job Marc! I was getting ready to ask you what you found because it has been a few days. Then I realized that a van with a 6.0L sucks the motivation right out of me. I assume I am not alone. Now, not to curse you but I hope for your sake that it's fixed for good. I had a van towed in three times, all three were failed injector inlet o-rings. I can honestly admit the third time I am assuming it was... o-rings... Ford bought the van back and I never got to "fully" diagnose it. It had no ICP - again. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif Normally, I don't accept defeat but in this case, if they want it back, they can have it.

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