BLittle500 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Do I really have to remove the up pipe to get that damn shield off of the HPOP cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 No. Just the two 8mm bolts at the back of the engine to the cover. I leave the shield in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Right. And depending on your dexterity you can reach through that hole in the shield with your hand and a 1/4 ratchet and 5/16" socket. (that's am 8mm ratchet with an 8mm socket for you non-Americans) I did once get those shield bolts out from underneath the truck with a long extension and a swivel socket - I found the experience over rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I prefer to use 5/16" as well. It reduces the likelihood of rounding of stubborn fasteners, on which there tend to be LOTS on a 6.0L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 I got those bolts out of the sheild, but now I cant get that cover out of there to save my ass. I can wiggle and jiggle it, just cant get it to come out. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I got those bolts out of the sheild, but now I cant get that cover out of there to save my ass. I can wiggle and jiggle it, just cant get it to come out. Any tips?Okay, what are we working on here, an E or F Series? I'm assuming you are referring to an F Series, by what you are describing. If it is an F Series, you have to remove the EGR cooler and turbo pedestal to get the cover off. This CAN be done without removing the intake, if you know how to finesse the cooler out. But, if you're a little "green" with these things, you are better off removing the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Yep it is an F-Series. I got it out Now I just have to replace the STC fitting, followed the instructions to a T but when I torque the new fitting down it pulls the plastic holding thing and twists a little, is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Yep it is an F-Series. I got it out Now I just have to replace the STC fitting, followed the instructions to a T but when I torque the new fitting down it pulls the plastic holding thing and twists a little, is that normal? That piece of plastic that comes with the kit is as useless as tits on a bull, which is why it goes straight into the garbage when I install them. I simply tighten the outlet fitting to the proper torque onto the pump, and reinstall the whole assembly, starting with the two 8mm bolts (or 5/16") onto the branch tube, and then pry it forward until I can start the other three TX-45 bolts that secure the pump by hand, before I tighten everything up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 If you can get your hands on the steel bracket we used to install before this new fitting was released, use it as a tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I don't think I have had any luck removing the HP oil pump cover without at least loosening the up-pipe flanges. I have seen several covers where the ear that bolt for the rear heat shield is mounted to. What is the trick to removing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I have resigned to the fact that forcing the issue with the cover is not worth it. Some guys try to snake it out and bend things up in the process. I have determined that loosening all of the intake manifold bolts and suspending the manifold with bungee cords from the hood works well for me. I don't disconnect the harnesses except for the passenger side injectors and flip the injector harness to the FICM side AND I don't even remove the oil/fuel filter housing assembly. I then EASILY remove the EGR cooler and at this point you not only have room to simply lift the cover off but you can clean dirt and oil away from around the cover BEFORE REMOVING IT preventing the dirt from falling into the engine. MOST IMPORTANTLY, WITH THE EGR COOLER IN THE WAY YOU CANNOT CUT THE SEALANT WHERE THE REAR COVER, BLOCK AND OIL PUMP COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE MEET. We all know by now that stretching those spaghetti gaskets WILL create an oil leak. I am all for short cuts when they work and don't compromise the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 Mr Worley had an interesting idea about using an open wrench to hold the fitting while letting the wrench rest against the bolt retaining the gear. It seems to line everything up perfectly while allowing the fitting not to spin as you torque it to whatever you want. I haven't got a chance to try it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 We all know by now that stretching those spaghetti gaskets WILL create an oil leak. Boy does it ever. When I got the oil pump cover off, there was a good bit of spaghetti gasket sticking through. Being new to diesels, I showed my shop foreman. He said to try bolting up the cover. It wouldnt bolt up. He said cut the gasket flush. Now the trans is out and my new gaskets are coming tomarrow I love learning on the job. Thanks again for all of the tips guys, Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I have learned by doing many of these that usually the silicone breaks and the rear cover gaskets usually don't pull out and stay put. But, as you learned this is not 100%. Even with the intake lifted and the EGR cooler out of the way getting in there with a blade of any sort is still a little difficult. What works well is a l o n g gasket scraper sharpened like a razor or the type of scrapers that holds a razor blade on the end. If you gently lift the front of the cover a little and then push the scraper back down each side under the cover you can cut the silicone nicely. One thing that also helps is to spray along the top of the cover around where the pump sticks through - this lubricates the o-ring and makes it easier to remove the cover - you need to get a small prybar or screwdriver under the cover and gently rock it up and down to work the rust penetrant into the o-ring and then it easily lifts off the pump. I suggest this because this allows you to control the removal of the cover as to not just rip it off which usually happens if you have to muscle it off... this method also works on the turbocharger oil feed line which likes to stick in the oil cooler housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Last one I did, I cut the silicone with an old EGR cooler gasket (between up-pipe and cooler) folded on a 90* angle. Worked pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Outstanding idea Aaron! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Hmmm, still leaking oil. I replaced the rear engine cover gasket, along with the rear crank seal (just going by the book). It looks like its coming from the driver side of the HPOP cover. Guess its back off with the turbo and other junk to check it out. Just no luck lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Drain tube not properly positioned? I did that once - I somehow pulled it back and cocked it while installing a turbo and it leaked pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Hmmm, still leaking oil. I replaced the rear engine cover gasket, along with the rear crank seal (just going by the book). It looks like its coming from the driver side of the HPOP cover. Guess its back off with the turbo and other junk to check it out. Just no luck lately. When you did the rear cover did you leave the HP oil pump cover bolted on? I have done it succesfully, but you need to be really careful. I have seen a few HP oil cover gaskets leaking after the rear cover was re-sealed. Has anyone ever dropped the bolts in the engine when removing the HP oil pump cover? The 2 bolts that are right under the egr cooler. Just curious. I will remove them as soon as I get the cover tilted up so they don't fall in the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Maybe the gasket on top of turbo leaking? I had that happen to me one time. Changed the gasket after doing an egr cooler and it leaked pretty good. I somehow didn't install it right the first time so I changed it out a second time and the leak was gone. I still don't know how that happened because the gasket wasn't ripped and looked in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Got the turbo off, no oil leaking up around there, I think I have an issue with my HPOP cover/gasket. I put dye in the system, and just cant see oil coming from anywhere other than the cover. I'm going to pull it off again, put a new gasket in, and re-torque the bolts. Thanks again guys, Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 I've seen a lot of the covers with the left side (engine right side) ear for that shield just completely ground off. The cover gets removed very forcefully and then that ear gets lopped right off, lol, but it drops right back into place without even the slightest fight. (I know because I've reinstalled a few covers that were missing that ear). Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I've seen a lot of the covers with the left side (engine right side) ear for that shield just completely ground off. The cover gets removed very forcefully and then that ear gets lopped right off, lol, but it drops right back into place without even the slightest fight. (I know because I've reinstalled a few covers that were missing that ear). Dave They do that at the dealer i left to make it easier for removal and install, we cut off the ear with a ground down cut off wheel. Then removed the cover easily. No force Dave L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blown99 Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I have never removed the intake or egr cooler to do a hpop cover. I remove the v band clamp on the rear of the egr cooler, then loosen one bolt on each side of the up pipe. The up pipes will roll backwards and give me plenty of room to angle the cover out of there. Is ford using the one piece stc fitting yet? I ended up making my own wrench to hold the fitting in place as the international special tool (snap on) did not fit properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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