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6.4l short block assembly

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just wandering im doing a short block in a f450 due to low compression in cylinder 8. have the old block with heads off pulled out of the truck.Are you guys assembling the heads with the new short block back in the truck or on and engine stand??? I think it would be easier to do the heads with the new short block in the truck just having trouble deciding where the safiest place to lift this thing would be without having the lifting eye brackets to use on the heads.Plus i dont think our shop hoist would be able to handle the weight of a full assembled 6.4l minus turbos.

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i think thats what im going to do just trying to find a place to put a couple bolts through to lift this heavy beast. On the back of the block there is 2 decent size bolt holes to put bolts through to lift with a chain but im not seeing much on the front, well at least to get a decent size bolt through.

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1 chain, 2 head bolts in top corner holes(rr/lf) pull chain as tight as you can so the chain can't slide up the bolts. Personally, I do the heads and all on the engine stand(just started building one this afternoon), but our hoist can lift the whole thing with no problems. Torquing in chassis isn't too bad, just gotta work around the tires and such. Good luck!

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thats what i ended up doing it seems to be working ok its time to get a serious engine hoist though.My service department likes to nickle and dime so i gotta make do with what i got.

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Exactly. I have the stand and hoist that I have now because the last time I had to "make due with what I had" I could have lost a foot or a leg when the hoist failed. I dropped a 7.3L from 4 feet in the air while pulling it away from the truck. Then engine hit the flow inches from one of my legs. This was the incident where I realized that diesel engines don't bounce.

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Yea, well my service manager is just worried about getting his check! You should see are special tool room it is a joke and he doesnt care. The last diesel tech before me made off with most of the special tools and i tell him that we need them and he just blows me off forcing me to shell out for these expensive tools like an ipr socket for example.We just hired a new guy that is awaiting diesel training so i have some help when i get swamped with diesels.He was putting together a rear the other day that was a comeback from a tech that was let go.He needed a dial torque wench to get the correct torque for the crush sleeve and my service manager told him to just told him to tighten it until it feels good.ahahahahha i laughed and said welcome to barber ford.

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Did them both ways. Actually faster and safer to assemble heads in truck. Engines lighter and less cumbersome. Sounds familiar Keith, had a 7.3 chain snap and the engine actually fall and hit the fender. Not a good day.

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Anyone makin time on these???I think the whole thing for a short block pays like 31 hours or somthing.

Yeah, I'm making time on just about everything heavy-line. The last head gasket job on an e-series paid 21.1 for the repair time (plus whatever for the diag time) and I killed it by about 5 hours... But I've been a heavy line bitch forever....

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I have always been a "heavy line bitch" but I am simply tired of it at this point. Being the team foreman I still do a lot of the heavy work because it is a necessity due to the lack of techs on hand. We are a team and we all pull our weight. My problem is I insist on quality being my fist objective which is not conducive to making time as a rule. The last 6.4L I had fail could have been repaired with a short block but the cost cap analysis blew the cost out of the water by a few grand. I recall the total labor being in the 33 hour range too so that is not out of line at all. By the time I got done fucking around with looking everything over, looking up parts, labor, calling the Hot-Line and filling out forms just to have a complete engine approved all hopes of just breaking even were gone.

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I'm going to work it out later and see what it pays. Matter of fact, I think I'm going to start writing up and posting up the common failure jobs and the opcodes that you claim for them (EGR valve, CHRA, FICM, etc.) to make things easier for everyone so you don't have to look up 300 op codes, and spend an hour doing so so you can get paid.

 

That is, if anyone's interested.

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Keith thats exactly what happened to me, you blow alot of time going through all that shit.Im still fairly new to this too so i really like to ensure a quality repair opposed to flat rating.A older diesel tech that i know told me that the speed will come in time just make sure you do a good job.

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A older diesel tech that i know told me that the speed will come in time just make sure you do a good job.

Outstanding! That is excellent advice which had been given to me when I was a diesel pup myself and I still hear it from time to time. Doing a job correctly is the most important and first rule to apply to anything you attempt. I smell an article...

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Excelent idea Aaron, ive thought of doing that at work for some common repairs as well, only ford usually issues a tsb for the really common shit.

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I'm going to work it out later and see what it pays. Matter of fact, I think I'm going to start writing up and posting up the common failure jobs and the opcodes that you claim for them (EGR valve, CHRA, FICM, etc.) to make things easier for everyone so you don't have to look up 300 op codes, and spend an hour doing so so you can get paid.

 

That is, if anyone's interested.

Especially at my store where I am the ONLY diesel tech, I'd be interested in knowing if I'm short-changing myself. It's hard to figure out what to charge RETAIL for some 6.0L repairs, which seems to have been happening fairly frequently on my doorstep lately.

 

.......an '04 E-350 just rolled in with both coolers puked and I'm trying to figure out what to hit this guy for labour. This thing has rear heat-A/C.

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I just did and egr cooler / oil cooler today, We use mitchell on demand for our retail times, usually they pay very well, but for this job the tsb time payed about the same. Between diag,vent hydro lock, re and re coolers, coolant flush, replace engine oil and filter comes in at 11 hrs. Mitchell gives 8.1 for egr cooler re and re,.8 cooling system diag, 1 hr eec test, .7 coolant flush / replace, and a svc 1 for .5 = 11.1. I guess i would add 1 hour to replace oil cooler heat exchanger to that as well. For some reason oil cooler re and re in mitchell only pays 6.7 vs egr for 8.1. Strange. Anyways i just went with warranty time.

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Just the short block R&R (6007B1) pays 22.1 plus the cab R&R (6007B) pays 6.1 hours thats 28.2 hrs without counting any diagnostic labor ops or any M time for stripped cab bolts, etc. Also, the last one I did, I had to do a manual compression test and cylinder leakage test as well as remove the valve covers, etc. in vehicle as part of my diagnosis and there were no labor ops for the compression test or CLT test. I could easily believe that low to mid 30s would be normal for one of these.

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That sounds about right and you aren't going to come to the conclusion that you need to replace the engine without some diagnostics... compression test is basically a must in this case unless there is a hole in the block or some other grand failure.

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I got a 6.4 in my stall that needs a complete assembly because it was overheated and melted the oil filter standpipe. It came in for a tapping noise which turned out to be backfiring thru intake. The reason I found out it was overheated is when I was going to check compression the glow plug harness was melted and the glow plugs were starting to come apart. The oil smelled a little burnt so I removed the filter and found that the standpipe was melted down completely.

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I did one not that long ago, charged R&R intake from Mitchell 8 hours, .2 to change the cooler, .8 to r&r and rebuild the oil cooler, and a bunch of other general misc crap. It needed a FICM too...I can't remember what all I did on it, but I quoted customer roughly 12 hours to do the whole works, and i gave him a bit of a good slice on it, since he had been jacked around pretty hard by another dealer (3 RETAIL EGR valves in 14 months, and charged him diag EVERY TIME, without bothering to check to see that the EOT was 44 degrees higher than coolant temp, and finally the EGR cooler puked and that's why I ended up with it.)

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