Brad Clayton Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Just did a short block and the friggin stand they shipped it on was frickin insanely overbuilt. I assembled the whole engine minus the front/rear covers and pans, right on the shipping crate. It worked out great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I did the same thing you did ,mine came on a wood pallet I slid it forward and put the front cover on then slid it back to install the rear cover then put the pans on after I picked it up with the crane high enough to just drop it in the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 i just installed a short block, built it completely on the engine stand, including the turbo and pipes. had a problem when lifting it, could not get it leveled properly when installing it. i used the factory lift bracket on the left front corner of the engine. the right rear corner does not have a lifting bracket. anyone know if there is a proper lifting bracket for the r/r corner that will allow it to be lifted level? the 6.0 bracket fits onto the block, but then it sits crooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 i used the factory lift bracket on the left front corner of the engine. the right rear corner does not have a lifting bracket. anyone know if there is a proper lifting bracket for the r/r corner that will allow it to be lifted level? the 6.0 bracket fits onto the block, but then it sits crooked. Whenever you do a complete drop in they have the rear lifting bracket installed. That's where I got mine because they tell you to remove it because it will make a vibration from hell. That's where I also got the studs I use to remove and install cylinder heads from the block. I usually build the engine inside the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 I usually build the engine inside the chassis.That's the way I built my engine on my latest hooping. Vehicle was a manual transmission 4x4 with PTO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Does that rear lifting bracket have a part number?? If not, I would appreciate it if you could trace that rear lifting bracket on a piece of paper to use as a template, then post it on this website. This way, we can make our own bracket. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 For some reason I thought a bracket was included in one of the 6.4L tool kits but apparently I must have been smoking something. I looked but did not find. I *think* I have a rear lifting bracket that came with a line engine I installed. It did not make it back onto the returned engine. I too have a 6.0L bracket as well as the thick bracket that comes with the engine lift adaper. I seem to recall the one for the 6.4L haveing an offset bend to it, i could be wrong there too. If we look in the service manual it lists the universal lifting bracket with a tool number from 1970. A quick trip into the RTTP site and you will find a better version of the universal lifting brackets: 4000 lb Capacity Lifting Brackets OTC7100 $36.54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Quote: I seem to recall the one for the 6.4L haveing an offset bend to it You are correct in that. But that bracket is used for cab on engine removal. It is used with the fork lift style picker that slides into your cherry picker and really is only good for the threaded rod deal that goes to the back for stability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 For some reason I thought a bracket was included in one of the 6.4L tool kits but apparently I must have been smoking something. I looked but did not find. I *think* I have a rear lifting bracket that came with a line engine I installed. It did not make it back onto the returned engine. I too have a 6.0L bracket as well as the thick bracket that comes with the engine lift adaper. I seem to recall the one for the 6.4L haveing an offset bend to it, i could be wrong there too. If we look in the service manual it lists the universal lifting bracket with a tool number from 1970. A quick trip into the RTTP site and you will find a better version of the universal lifting brackets: 4000 lb Capacity Lifting Brackets OTC7100 $36.54 Those lifting brackets won't work on a complete assembled engine. Don't know why Ford doesn't supply the correct bracket. If you are going to pull a 6.4 to do a bedplate, your not going to disassemble part of the engine in the chassis to use those universal brackets. If anyone remembers, is the r/r bracket the same as the l/f bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 no, they are different brackets, i've got a few lying around from completes that i've done. kept one on purpose and a couple others that just got left off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 The 6.4 engines I've replaced, I never used the brakets at all.. I just ended up chaining the engine at a couple strong points and then using a ratchet-strap from the hoist arm to the lowest-hanging point on the engine and ratcheting the the engine up until it was level. It actually works REALLY well. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Anyone making time on these???I think the whole thing for a short block pays like 31 hours or something. Well lemme tell ya, NO. Just finished one up and I took it in the cheeks hard. It was at the dealer for 33 days, I probably spent a total of 50+ hours on it and got paid 41.6 for the diagnosis, repair and the open recall 09B08 (injector) which apparently was to root cause of the failure. After performing all of the diag, filling out forms, contacting the Hot-Line I had to repeat the process because "they" washed their hands of it and told me to call the recall program center because it was 09B08 related damage. Doing a cost cap on one of these is a nightmare and making the calls and forms is time consuming. I spent the better part of 4 hours on that alone... all for a mere 0.3 hours. Mind you this is not the first one of these I have repaired. Get this, since my dealer is in a state where the parts and labor mark up is high, our cost cap on diesel engines is $15,000 instead of the nation wide $10,000. I wasn't looking for an engine necessarily but this means that on some future repairs I might be fixing what really would be better off being replaced. When I got done with it yesterday I went and re-evaluated the fuel injection system and low and behold I see injector #8 short fuel trim at (-14) so I had to go back into the engine to replace that. I still love what I do BUT I am really getting sick and tired of the crap involved with the job that Ford puts us through and it is really getting hard to make hours at all. This is one of those times I am thinking about a career change as I don't see any change or improvement on the horizon. But, stupid me will likely be found in the same fucking service bay ten years from now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbudge Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 I find it strange that technicians are involved in the powertrain exchange program to the extent that you guys are. I tell the guys here if you are going to be over cost cap to let me know and I jump through the required hoops to get whatever approval is required. Same thing for diesel parts prior approval. The tech puts the job on hold, it goes outside and you move on to whatever comes up next. I would not want a flat rate guy to do all the prior approval bs for .3, and if or when it all goes in the toilet I work with the tower operator and warranty administrator to straighten it out. The tech is in his bay producing. We all know that every prior approval is sent back the first time for some bullshit reason, so there, you just spent your .3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Wow...our diesel engine cost cap is $8800 and the parts are substantially more, even at Warranty cost, in Canada. I think a DPF is about 300 to 500 bucks cheaper dealer cost at a dealer in Detroit, as opposed to our cost here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreek Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 i did one a few weeks ago and went through the same hoops this one melted down #2 and no piston just rod and damaged numorous parts. after repair and 4 fuel injectors final cost was 12,500 and tech line was involved from start to finish. then ford rejected the extra 2500. so had to take pictures of the parts that they said could be reused. that were damaged in the original implosion. finnaly they agreed to pay the other 2500. and all of this was on my lap to fix me and the warranty admin. statements pictures etc. sometimes i hate the system but i still enjoy what i do more or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Well, my nightmare just showed up on my doorstep last night. I go to fire it up this morning, and this thing is just a THUMP THUMP THUMPing away through the intake!!!! I WANT to see Ford try and blame this on me. I just WANT to!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Well, my nightmare just showed up on my doorstep last night. I go to fire it up this morning, and this thing is just a THUMP THUMP THUMPing away through the intake!!!! I WANT to see Ford try and blame this on me. I just WANT to!!! More than likely you have a couple of broken lifters. The last one that I had popping threw the intake had lifters on 5 and 6 broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted By: mchan68 Well, my nightmare just showed up on my doorstep last night. I go to fire it up this morning, and this thing is just a THUMP THUMP THUMPing away through the intake!!!! I WANT to see Ford try and blame this on me. I just WANT to!!! More than likely you have a couple of broken lifters. The last one that I had popping threw the intake had lifters on 5 and 6 broken. I have only seen bad lifters in the6.0L. As for the 6.4L Burnt valves and sticking/seized valves. Mike, is this the same truck that gave you a hooping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I have only seen bad lifters in the6.0L. As for the 6.4L Burnt valves and sticking/seized valves. Mike, is this the same truck that gave you a hooping? YES. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 More than likely you have a couple of broken lifters. The last one that I had popping threw the intake had lifters on 5 and 6 broken.But how in the hell is it, that this truck drove smooth, and didn't skip a beat after I buttoned everything up? I mean, I torqued EVERY fastener on this puppy right down to the rocker arms WITH THE CRANK IN THE PROPER ORIENTATION per the workshop manual. If there were any issues with the valvetrain, would it not have shown up right away, the moment it fired up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted By: Mikill More than likely you have a couple of broken lifters. The last one that I had popping threw the intake had lifters on 5 and 6 broken. But how in the hell is it, that this truck drove smooth, and didn't skip a beat after I buttoned everything up? I mean, I torqued EVERY fastener on this puppy right down to the rocker arms WITH THE CRANK IN THE PROPER ORIENTATION per the workshop manual. If there were any issues with the valvetrain, would it not have shown up right away, the moment it fired up? The truck that I had with the two broken lifters ran smooth and compression was good across every cylinder at 420 psi. Valve train was operating properly. Couldn't find anything wrong until I drained the oil and found metal and a piece of needle bearing on the drain plug. I removed the gerotor pump and found it scarred up along with the front cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Just did one, same situation as MiKill had, drained the oil and the needle bearings from the lifter flowed out into the drain pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.