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6.0 head scratcher

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Got an 06 f-250 in today.Customer complaint is running rough.Started vehicle had all sorts of white and black smoke.Vehicle shakes like its missing.Took it for a ride and it ran great just a mixture of black and white smoke.Hooked up ids ran self test no dtc's.Watched power balance everything looks fine turned off fuel correction still good also disbled individual injectors with no change.Ran relative compresion green across the board cold and hot.Checked fuel pressure right in spec.Pulled egr valve and it was goopy with oil not coolant and valve would not retract.So put a new valve in with no change still lots of bluish white smoke.Waiting on baffle kit.Coolant level is good but over time drops in pressure when hot.So im baffled, whats causing this shake,looked at motor mounts and there good, checked flexplate looks good.My next step is to pull the belt and see if it goes away.After that i dont know what to do.As for the smoke im guessing im at the begining of an egr cooler but im going to pull it off and test it.The funny thing is the smoke doesnt smell like coolant it smells like a mixture of fuel and oil and there is no coolant leaking out the tailpipe.Hotline suggested try swapping a known good FICM because they said they have seen them do some crazy things.I really dont feel a miss though its more like a vibration and if there was/is a miss wouldnt IDS see it in powerbalance or throw a code.Any help greatly appreciated

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Clean the IAT2 sensor. Posted Image

 

 

The FICM idea is not so far fetched, I had a truck do strange things at random that ended up being a FICM but I did manage to get DTC's from it. Did you check the turbo for oil leaks, the charge air cooler for oil and crankcase oil level and condition?

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Oil level is good, did not check turbo charger yet will do now just got finished pulling belt and running engine still has vibration.Pulled hot side cac tube just a tiny bit of oil.Gonna clean iat2 now

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Its an automatic, that is the baffle kit i was refering to.Fuel quality looks good visually but i did have an issue in the past with this guy running home heating oil.I think its in another post but hes a plumber so go figure.I tried using active command with egr,vgt,and ipr to see if there was any change with the vibration issue but nothing.Truck cold this morning on relative compresion cylinder 8 was 4% but still in the green so i didnt think anything of it but i guess anything over 2% is grounds for manual compresion test.Hot relative on cylinder 8 is 1%.Tommarow im going to pull the vibration dampner off and inspect it and also have another look at the flexplate.O and Bruce 0 DTC's passes all test buzz,egr etc...

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Anything over not all cylinders at 100 percent is grounds for manual compression, in my opinion. I've seen a 6.0 say a cylinder is down 1-2%, and only have about 200psi of compression, where the rest of the cylinders were around 400.

 

Last truck I had with a shitload of white smoke, it smelled like fuel too, but it had a completely fucked EGR cooler. Drill a small hole in the catalytic converter, something you can plug easily with a welder when you're done, and see what runs out. Coolant, oil, fuel, etc.

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Shortened rod due to past cooler leakage causing a hydrolock condition? The compression test may be worth the time. I have had 3.8's(coolant) and 5.4 3V(fuel) with short rods that were not noisey yet, but caused a shake.

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Goodmorning all! miles 55,561 and 1287.1 Hours gonna do a compresion test after i do an egt sensor on another 6.4 i have here.Ill let you know what i find.

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I would think that home heating oil would be dyed? This is the norm in Alberta...

 

Point to ponder.. relative compression is just that - relative.

 

I can't remember... does the 6.0 have MP_LRN PID? Is the PID set to <YES>?

 

When all else fails - substitute fuel. "Bad fuel" is very hard to quantify and has been the causal in many cases where nothing else can be found... A jerry can of known good fuel and a hose going to the HFCM should give you enough info... this is too easy to not do it.

 

Have you tried normalizing the engine/trans/exhaust? Check in the NVH section of the manual for details, if needed. Do you have a cirometer or EVA that can help with the frequency of the vibration? Don't forget that sometimes we can get lucky with a SOTP guess.

 

When all else fails, I take a giant step backwards - give the old noggin a hard shake and then approach the truck as if I had never seen it before - ever....

 

The Posted Image is in the details.

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Yea home heating oil is dyed here.He used to run it now he runs regular diesel after i put in a couple injectors for him.Did manual compresion test with compresion reading 400-420 on all cylinders.No go on the EVA my shop does not have one.I think its time to take a giant step backwards jim.

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Well working on getting an EVA never used one before though.Anyone have any expierience with using these? Hotline suggested to try and nuetrilize the vibration by loosening engine mounts one at a time including the trans mount and if that didnt work to remove the trans and try running it again and see what happens.

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