Trailer Brake Controller in 2007 Freestar

[BrunoWilimek]

I am attempting to install a TBC(Draw-Tite Activator #5100)in this van to allow towing a tent trailer. Unlike the 2000-2003 Windstar, there is no factory TBC connector on this unit. The instructions specify hooking up to the switched side of the brakelamp circuit, but there is a separate yellow instruction page that applies to late model Fords with a switched side circuit that is a ground with the brake pedal not applied. It warns not to hook to that type of circuit as it will cause a short to ground that will destroy the controller. I tested the wire and as it goes to the SJB, it is indeed a ground circuit at rest. It says "hook to the light green wire from the stoplamp switch. Yes, but the light green wire is the supply(12volt) side of the switch, so how will that work? Hotline says:"This vehicle does not have a 7-pin trailer tow connector. It is not recommended to install a trailer brake controller on this vehicle." Hmm. Now what? Any ideas?

[BrunoWilimek]

I just checked the online owner's manual and it says to have an electronic brake controller and associated wiring installed to your vehicle by an authorized dealer if towing a trailer with electronically activated brakes. The trailer tow capacity of the van is 3500lbs and trailer brakes are required on trailers over 2000lbs gross weight. WTF?

[BrunoWilimek]

Hotline says "authorized dealer" refers to the aftermarket. This unit does not have the trailer tow package according to him and he can not help me on it therefore. I have e-mailed Draw-tite.

[Jim Warman]

How about a relay?

[slim]

I guess you could hook that wire to a brake light wire and hope the SJB doesn't disable that circuit.

[Jim Warman]

OK... finally had time to take a look at your circuits. I assume you are talking about ckt 810 RD-LG????

 

Why not tie into ckt 1456 RD-LB going to the high mount stop lamp? The only caveate would be of this is a sensed voltage or if it actually has to be a working current that *may* give the SJB hiccups.

 

There's often more than one way to skin a cat...

[BrunoWilimek]

Thanks for the replies. I thought of hooking into the hi-mount brakelamp, but without having time to test this, I couldn't say if it would work. I was also wondering about using a diode in the boo circuit. I have e-mailed Draw-Tite and am waiting for a reply. Hotline washed their hands of the job, as it involves aftermarket equipment. I am off next week, so will not get back to it until after then.

[Jim Warman]

I had considered a diode before I came up with the high mount idea... without knowing the current load expected on the circuit it's a crap shoot.

[cbriggs]

I would think a relay would be the simplest solution? Unless there is a brand of controller not affected by that wire being grounded?

[GregH]

I would suggest building this simple circuit, and splicing it in across the brake lamp switch. All solid state, no excessive current load from turning on a relay, and it can be made with an exceedingly small footprint.

 

 

The resistor is a 10KOhm, and available at radio shack. Cheapest one you can find is fine - the current flow through the resistor when active will be almost unmeasurable. The transistor is a general purpose NPN. Match the rating with the expected current flow into the trailer brake controller. Part number 276-1617 will handle .05A, and would probably work just fine for this application. If you aren't sure of the current draw on this line, then go with part number 276-2041 will handle about 8A. Overkill, I know, but 276-2041 is actually a few cents cheaper. 276-1617 comes in a pack of 15, though...

[LARRY BRUDZYNSKI]

This may help.....

 

http://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.htm

[BrunoWilimek]

This may help.....

 

http://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.htm

Thanks, Larry. I found that and watched the video before I went on vacation and thought it very well designed(other than the non-sealing type connectors used). It did not show exactly where to hook up the brakelamps source wire, however, so would have had to order the kit to find out what they suggested and since I had already installed a home-sourced version of the same thing. all except for the one wire, the kit would have been redundant. I was able to test the high-mount brakelamp circuit today and found it to be a suitable connection point(as Grampa Jim suggested. Thanks, Jim ). The connector C2280D at the SJB is close enough to not require a longer wire and it is circuit 1456 RD-LB that is a good brake feed. Had I not been able to hook into this wire, I could have used GregH's circuit board idea. Thanks to all who replied.