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Pinpoint test KA/Chasing no boost

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2004 6.0 late build

 

In for no power, MIL on. EBP sensor was only reading 6psi KOEO, put a sensor in, fixed that concern. Still no power, had no boost detected code P2262. Failed boost test miserably, hooked manual gauge to MAP hose, re ran boost test, none being made. Checked the turbo quick, spins freely, started truck up and turbo does spin.

 

AAAAAAAAAAAnyway, I'm heading through pinpoint test KA, got to step KA14, checking the VGT, when commanded to above 70% the openings close up, then when put back to 0, the openings upen up. Is that what I'm looking for in this pinpoint test?

 

Customer stated that he bought this truck knowing it had problems. Took it to another shop, had head gaskets, EGR cooler, EGR Valve, and had the turbo disassembled and de coked. Maybe I'm looking at a problem with how they assembled the turbo?

 

Thanks again for the help guys,

 

Brandon

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Finally got back to this truck.

 

mchan68, truck will only go to 3K RPM, then starts dumping white smoke.

 

Checked fuel pressure with the flow tester, with the tester "open" it only has 42 PSI, min spec is 45.

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Finally got back to this truck.

 

mchan68, truck will only go to 3K RPM, then starts dumping white smoke.

 

Checked fuel pressure with the flow tester, with the tester "open" it only has 42 PSI, min spec is 45.

 

 

Buzz test.... what are MF_DES and LOAD%?

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Finally got back to this truck.

 

mchan68, truck will only go to 3K RPM, then starts dumping white smoke.

 

Checked fuel pressure with the flow tester, with the tester "open" it only has 42 PSI, min spec is 45.

 

 

How does it drive, if you disconnect the downpipe from the turbo? What I'm driving at, is all too often many guys jump the gun to the turbo itself before performing the quickest and simplest tests first.

 

I had one a while back that the customer had the turbo replaced RETAIL at another dealership before ending up on my doorstep. It took me all of ten minutes to determine the cat was plugged.

 

I'm "assuming" you also checked the air filter, right?

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Also, don't chase after your fuel pressure as that's not your problem. If all of the other tests pan out, try some PM17A in the fuel filter.

 

MFDES at a hot idle should be in the low teens. If it's higher it could be starving for fuel due to bad injectors. Did you take a fuel sample and smell it?

 

Good Luck!

 

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42 PSI fuel pressure won't cause no boost, just lower power than normal. Check what the other guys say as far as intake and exhaust restriction. It takes all of 1 minute to take the flange loose in front of the cat and shove the exhaust to the side. Also smoke test the intake if possible. We've been seeing a few CAC split along the outboard seal at the passenger side tank.

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Check for an intake leak. I have had one where the truck made no boost but had an egr cooler recently replaced. Intake gasket was not installed properly. The tab that is on the gasket was not in one of the grooves so the back bolts on the intake manifold loosened up. Smoke test revealed that one real quick.

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Intake/Exhaust is aftermarket on this truck, K&N looks good and clean, there is no cat on this truck either. Back to it this morning. That PPT really blows for the P2292, mentions nothing of these other possible problems.

 

Thanks for the help guys,

 

Brandon

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Checked the fuel filters, the primary was pretty clogged up, replaced it, now the truck will go to 3500RPM in park, but no more. The truck doesnt drive any different.

 

As long as you keep your foot out of this thing it's not bad, but if you go to give it anything over about 1/4 throttle it just starts putting out the white smoke. If you hold it wide open on the road it makes 5 PSI of boost, no more. Then it starts chugging and puffing and going to shit.

 

Ran the injector electrical self test, they all clicked good and strong.

 

Thanks again guys,

 

Brandon

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How about EGR valve position under accel? I've had weak ones that will open up under pressure and not set a code. Monitor egr valve position pid under throttle with egr commanded closed. EGR position voltage shouldn't budge from it's at rest position.

 

Does the EP sensor respond properly now? Many of the biased EP sensors I've seen are contaminated with carbon. That same carbon often will plug the tube and make the sensor readings inaccurate. Try disconnecting the EP sensor and go for a quick rip.

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