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Fuel pressure test

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I'm a bit confused about the terminology you're using. I'll assume you mean checking the fuel pressure at the head, and the inlet restriction test.

 

Checking fuel pressure at the head is easily done with a standard style automotive fuel pressure gauge adapted to the 1/8" NPT fittings in the ends of the cylinder head (Gen 2)or the Schrader on the pressure regulator (Gen 1). Note the location of the fittings on the Gen2: Front of the right head and rear of the left head. If you're fighting a tough one, I suggest checking both points to make sure you don't have a clogged check valve at the fuel inlet to the head. There should be a square cast plug in the test hole from the factory. I usually install a Schrader fitting in the Gen2's and bill the customer for it to make things easier. It's only about $4-5 for the fittings- Napa 90-290 Schrader and a 1/8"NPT 45 degree street elbow. If this is confusing, tell me and I'll put up pictures.

 

The restriction test will require the Tee-hose assembly 014-00931-2 to test inlet restriction. On Gen 2 trucks it is common for the screens to clog in the tank, starving the truck for fuel, the complaint is commonly "stalls on the highway, no codes". A regular vacuum gauge will work, spec is 6 inches and I've seen them pull 29" when the screens are clogged with rust.

 

If you don't have the Tee assembly, you could probably make one or rig something up on the inlet side of the fuel pump.

 

No, you don't need the gauge bar.

 

Does this answer your questions?

 

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DO make sure to add the block off tools for the high pressure oil system for Gen I trucks. Those usually got lost about 10 years ago in most dealers, but are a must if an oldy comes in with a high pressure leak.

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DO make sure to add the block off tools for the high pressure oil system for Gen I trucks. Those usually got lost about 10 years ago in most dealers, but are a must if an oldy comes in with a high pressure leak.

Since that is not too far off topic here it is good advice. We discussed these tools HERE This is the picture and part number for them. You won't find them in the catalog and you will have to call Rotunda and ask for them. 1-800-ROTUNDA. I had trouble finding "fittings" to make the adapter so we finally purchased another set. I have an old ICP sensor that is good that I just leave in the adapter which saves time.

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Thanks guys but you dont understand what im dealing with.I tell my service manager and his response is what do you want me to do about it.Well im working on a 98 e-series and the wsm says to use the gauge bar and the tee but it shows hooking it up at the fuel filter housing.Ive never done a fuel pressure test on any 7.3 powerstroke before.Is it similar to the 6.0 where fuel pressure is checked at the back of the cylinder heads or on the filter housing???This thing has 450,000 on an original engine. I got it to throw ICP too high so im almost postive this is a fuel pressure issue.Brce how bout some pics?Thanks

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Of all the 7.3's, you have to pick a '98 E-Van. Well, is it an early one, or late one? Early ones were Gen 1 with mechanical fuel pumps, late ones were gen 2 with electric pumps. I'll guess it's late, 'cause I see a lot more of those than early. You'll have to make the fitting because it's a different thread pitch than 6.0's. You can also tap into the 1/8" NPT thread on the rear of the left head in a van, under the turbo, if you wish.

 

 

F Model:

 

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E-Model:

 

 

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Nuff said?

 

 

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