Aaron Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Who's done one? How many extra body mounts are involved? Pictures? Tips? Tricks? Pulling a motor for another fucking bedplate reseal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_ Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I've done 4 or 5 I think about 6 extra body bolts, then just the filler neck and 1 square electrical connector behind the rear license plate. Also if you have illuminated running boards you will need to unplug them too. It's really not that bad, if you can do a pickup, you can do an Excursion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Damn! Ceramic tile floor? I'm jealous. Did we talk about this already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_ Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Unfortunately that dealership closed and is now a LA Fitness. Now I work on concrete with old peeling paint. I really miss that shop, we had a good group of people there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Unfortunately that dealership closed and is now a LA Fitness. Well, look at it this way, bodies are still being "lifted" in that building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Looks like you got all the nice tools still, though. That stand and picker are the cats arse. Nothing like the 'ol dog and pony show. It is a toss up for me, as far as cab off engine removal goes. I have done it both ways for engine removal and neither seemed to be better than the other. But these were on F-Series. Now your talkin' about an Excursion. Head gaskets, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the body off. Engine removal I'm iffy about. Alot of factors can play in this decision. How much crap is in the way of getting to the body bolts that the customer is carrying in the thing? Do the running boards have to come off to lift the body? How picky is the customer if they happen to see the body off? I mean after all we are pulling the motor not replacing the frame. How long is the job going to tie up your bay? Do you have more than one bay to work out of, ect, ect. And of course cab offs make you stand out in a crowd. If the motor is a running complete, or does not need to be torn down as far as the top end goes, then it's worth taking the body off. Then you don't have to remove the turbo and y-pipe and stuff on the top. If I was doing a short/long block then I would snatch the motor out the front. I'm sure you remember the days of the 7.3L? Every one I ever did came out the front. And I did all the heads in chassis. And believe me it was a chitload of them on the IDI units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Jeff: A bit off topic, but how was the ceramic tile floor to work on, as far as tools, steel wheel jacks, and cleanup went? I'm curious. I'd like to cover my home and shop floors with something super durable like that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Be a bitch if you dropped a socket, or one of those little magnetic rails with several sockets on it....i can see the stuff just scattering all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_ Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Jeff: A bit off topic, but how was the ceramic tile floor to work on, as far as tools, steel wheel jacks, and cleanup went? I'm curious. I'd like to cover my home and shop floors with something super durable like that.... I prefer the tile personally. Not only does it look great and make the work environment just seem happier, but it cleaned up well too. We had a "Zamboni" style floor cleaner that would run through every night and worked really well with the proper soap. The tile we had was pretty tough and we would sometimes have steel jack rollers going across it while supporting the front of a vehicle that was being pushed in with the old John Deere for whatever reason ie" broken front end parts ect. Certainly they aren't indestructible... If you drop a 6.0 cylinder head from waist height, you'll probably end up replacing a couple tiles, but that's no big deal. Our maintenance guy went through and replaced some tiles every spring. The only real down side to them, is they seemed slightly more slippery than cement when oil/coolant was spilled on them. I'm sure you could shop around and find some more textured tiles that would alleviate that concern though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Sounds interesting. Did you ever work on a creeper or roller seat on them? I wonder if eliminating the 1/4" gap between the tiles would make working on them easier.... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_ Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I dont remember any creeper issues, but I dont use one very much anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Well, what's the word Aaron? You've had all weekend, and a long one at that, to mull it over. Which route you gonna take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 Truck isn't here yet...still weighing it out. Next monday is the appointment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 I would still do it body-off without even thinking about it, even if there are 12 body-to-frame bolts and a filler neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 It ended up needing a front cover. Was blowing back, but initially it looked like a bedplate due to the oil EVERYWHERE on the initial visit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 If the motor is a running complete, or does not need to be torn down as far as the top end goes, then it's worth taking the body off. Then you don't have to remove the turbo and y-pipe and stuff on the top. I don't take the turbo off when removing engine in chassis, remove the cab bolts at driver and front passenger floor boards, remove the front nuts by the radiator, jack front of body up high enough to put 4x4 between body and frame, remove oil pan and pick up tube, remove engine. Bedplate reseal normally takes me around 12 hours. To me, there's no reason to pull cab on 6.0. Head gaskets are easy enough, once you remove evaporator case(15 minutes) you can get all head bolts with impact, then just use the cherry picker to pull them out. That's my method, and maybe it's just 'cause I'm still young....there's always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Maybe as I get older I'll change my method, but for now.... Just my Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 So you do a PARTIAL body off Josh? To get the front of the body high enough to put a 4X4 under it, you probably still need to access most or all of the body bolts, right? If not you are placing an awful lot of stress on the body. If you are going through the effort to access all the body bolts (which is the hardest part of body raising) you are pretty much there. I am also assuming you are removing the front end and the heat exchangers to pull the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I've got it between an hour and 90 minutes to have the cab (pickup) 6 feet in the air, so it's not even really a question anymore, for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 That's kinda my point, if you are going through the trouble of taking the nose apart and jacking the body up you may as well just lift the body. I guess by now everyone has their own way of doing things for one reason or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I access the front nuts by the radiator(since i'm allready pulling everything out of the front this doesn't take any extra time). And then the bolts at the driver/passenger floorboards. The front of the cab easily lifts with a floor jack and a 4x4 at that point. I've never felt any resistance from the cab at the center bolts and since it's all by hand, I never thought it might be putting any extra 'stress' on those rear bolts/body. I'll check a little closer next time I do one (it's been a while....seems like almost everything I'm working on lately is a 6.4L). The front bolts are easy to get to, I just don't care to tear all the rear seats out to access the back 4 bolts as most the trucks I see are either caked in mud (inside and out) or full of other crap in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 2/27/2008 11:51:00 AM Hotline recommended Keep replacing egr valves until one passes the test or stops setting egr codes Off subject, but I have to know....How many did you get to? I had one last year about the same time, Hotline told me same thing, I went through 27 valves on one truck. After about the 12th one, I stole a valve from a stock unit to give the customer his truck back, and then proceeded to go through every valve we could get over the next few days until I found one that 1. still didn't pass the egr test. 2. didn't cause any driveability issues. and 3. didn't set any codes! Hotline said that was ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 My last run-in with this, was "The new EGR valves do not operate within the same range. If the test fails however there is no driveability concerns, release the vehicle to the customer and monitor oasis for updates." http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=24551#Post24551 I can't remember offhand how many valves I hung in it, but I know it was 3 or more. Oh, and it was an Econoline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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