2010 Escape 3.0L Lower Engine Block Cracked

mchan68 · September 30, 2009

Has anyone seen this yet? Unit has only 10 kms. Not even sold yet!

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cbriggs · September 30, 2009

Is there a mount or something that bolts on nearby? Thats strange. Maybe engine got dropped at factory?

Keith Browning · September 30, 2009

Wow, that looks like the pan and the block are cracked.

LARRY BRUDZYNSKI · September 30, 2009

Looks like both the block and pan as Keith stated. Looks like it might have been a Monday/Friday assembly. Posted Image Got a production date on the engine? It would be interesting to find out.

Aaron · October 1, 2009

Someone switched the 'oil pan bolts' impact gun with the 'pinion nut' impact gun at the factory.

(Yes, I know the engine and diff aren't assembled in the same place, it's a joke about assembly quality and examples of 'it's not my job')

Kinda like the lady the other day wanted to know EXACTLY why the check engine light was on in her escape, because "I build those engines."

Took all of my strength to reply with "Well, you sure didn't fuckin' build that one very good, didja!"

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eastendpowerstroke · October 1, 2009

Took all of my strength to reply with "Well, you sure didn't fuckin' build that one very good, didja!"

You young stooge are a stronger man than I.....

mchan68 · October 24, 2009

I finally had the time to get to this job today. The engine only arrived about a week and a half ago. Here are some more views:

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.....and back in the crate it goes:

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LARRY BRUDZYNSKI · October 26, 2009

I thought at first that it was the engine out of the Escape. That break looks dam close to being the same on both. It may be time to call somebody at FOMOCO for a inspection. You may have found a real problem.

Aaron · October 26, 2009

I think that is the failed unit, Larry - I think he said it got noticed on a PDI - so I can't see it being a great deal of greasy.

mchan68 · October 26, 2009

I think that is the failed unit, Larry - I think he said it got noticed on a PDI - so I can't see it being a great deal of greasy.

Actually, the story goes that this vehicle was sold, and shortly after the customer took delivery she was back when she noticed a huge puddle of oil on her driveway. Another tech in the shop ordered an oil pan for it. It wasn't until it was noticed that the extent of the damage was deeper, that it landed into my hands. They gave her another vehicle, of course.

Keith Browning · October 28, 2009

Is it me or does that engine look like it was hit right where the break is? I see distinct looking witness marks like something whacked it on that parturition.

mchan68 · October 28, 2009

Is it me or does that engine look like it was hit right where the break is? I see distinct looking witness marks like something whacked it on that parturition.

Now that you mention it, it could very well be, I don't know. Based on the fact that the customer took delivery of the vehicle and was back the very next day, it could very well be that something whacked it but I would think would've had to whack it pretty hard to cause THAT amount of damage.

Keith Browning · October 28, 2009

The first picture you posted at the top of the thread shows the damaged area of the block directly behind the right axle shaft. This would most likely point to an incident during production somewhere along the line before that shaft was put in. Is there a support bracket for the shaft near there? I am not familiar with the Escape at all but the shaft and anything else running under that area like the exhaust would provide some degree of protection as well. Hey, shit happens.

ktmlew · April 6, 2014

From the archives...

Been seeing a ton of these with a leak at the lower block to block junction. I have, to date, not found any repair info on what is involved with dropping the lower block for a reseal? Is this not a recommended repair?

It obviously requires removal of timing chain cover and valve covers but my concern is about any dowels at bellhousing area that prevents removal w/o trans removal? If the trans has to come out it would make dropping complete drivetrain a no-brainer IMO.

Edit: a google search found some pictures. As i thought the lower block is a girdle. Pulling the motor would be the only way to guarantee a leak-free repair.

Aaron · April 6, 2014

Same as a 6.0 bed plate. I've been told they can be done motor in chassis. I don't have the patience, dexterity, or small size to work on shit in an engine compartment when I can yank the motor easy.

forddieseldoctor · April 6, 2014

Same as a 6.0 bed plate. I've been told they can be done motor in chassis. I don't have the patience, dexterity, or small size to work on shit in an engine compartment when I can yank the motor easy.

Just because it can be don't mean that it should be.

YukonTyler · April 7, 2014

From the archives...

Been seeing a ton of these with a leak at the lower block to block junction. I have, to date, not found any repair info on what is involved with dropping the lower block for a reseal? Is this not a recommended repair?

It obviously requires removal of timing chain cover and valve covers but my concern is about any dowels at bellhousing area that prevents removal w/o trans removal? If the trans has to come out it would make dropping complete drivetrain a no-brainer IMO.

Edit: a google search found some pictures. As i thought the lower block is a girdle. Pulling the motor would be the only way to guarantee a leak-free repair.

I did one of these the other day on a 2008. I dropped the front cradle and split the motor from the transaxle before resealing the bedplate. I ordered a reseal kit and did everything while it was out ...