Aaron Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Anyone having problems? I had one right out of the box I could not get the little VGT actuator to move. AT ALL. After I grabbed it with soft jaw pliers and it wouldn't move, I figured it was junk, so i gave it a bunt with a brass drift and a hammer. STILL nothin. Ordered another one, it had some resistance, but it did move, so that was ok. Did another yesterday. You could turn the CHRA from side to side and the actuator cam would flop around with no assistance whatsoever. That fugger will never sieze up! Kind of an aside though -- has anyone noticed that the heat treated CHRA's come with NO oil on them or oil in them AT ALL? I was advised by hotline to run the truck at idle for 15 minutes before driving it to allow for proper oiling. Umm....the compressor wheel is still turning, even at idle.... I pumped about a half a quart through the feed hole while spinning the turbo over by hand and it seemed to work out alright. This particular truck had the unison ring busted in half. Would make over 30psi, EASY. I'm sure it'll be back for head gaskets before long. This is the second truck from this fleet with complaint of rough run cold, has 2500 hours on it and like 35k miles. Plus the seized up VGT business in the 'charger. Turbo boost test? NO EBP rise, NO boost rise, at all. It was funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Kind of an aside though -- has anyone noticed that the heat treated CHRA's come with NO oil on them or oil in them AT ALL? I was advised by hotline to run the truck at idle for 15 minutes before driving it to allow for proper oiling. Umm....the compressor wheel is still turning, even at idle.... I pumped about a half a quart through the feed hole while spinning the turbo over by hand and it seemed to work out alright. I recommend to my customers changing out 6.0 turbos to disconnect the FICM and crank it for about 30 seconds before firing up the truck. Dry firing the turbo will smoke the bearings on them, in extreme cases I have seen the turbine shaft actually break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Couldn't this be done? Get a socket that fits the compressor wheel nut, and use a breaker bar to hold the compressor from turning while an assistant starts it. Let it run for about a minute while holding, shut down, and remove the holder. Then assemble the intake and start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 You could just crank the fuckers over with your fancy Snappy-on Remote Starter buttons while keeping the Ignition switch shutoff. Christ, we used to do this in the ole' days on diesels to prime the oil system after replacing an engine. Man, I think I'm starting to sound like someone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Of course you could simply pour some oil into the oil feed hole while spinning the the shaft by hand... just before you install the turbo. For crying out loud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Yup. That too. It seemed like some of us were concerned about going the extra mile to get oil pressure to the turbo. But like you said, if you oil it, there really shouldn't be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 Of course you could simply pour some oil into the oil feed hole while spinning the the shaft by hand... just before you install the turbo. For crying out loud! Kinda like what i did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 We had a few CRHA actuators that we were unable to move right out of the box too. They were NOT the coated and heat treated housings though so I don't think that is what was causing it. We sent back two or three and one we smacked around a little and it freed up. Me thinks the problem was related to the actuator piston, seal or bore. The accepted wisdom is that those actuators should be quite easy and free to move. Remember the "magnet test?" It seems we simply had a run on these bad apples. Maybe they shipped them north of the border... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Don't get me wrong, I have had the old non heat-treated style not able to move, either. Dunno what it is. Maybe the last one done on the friday shift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walleyewarrior Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 i am running into a rash of faulty CRHA right out of the box. 5 in the last month. WE are doing anyhting differently then the other hundreds we do. I think the q in quality fell off the cliff once the repair came out. Or did they just ship the bad ones north???????Bastards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Man, I think I'm starting to sound like someone else. Who? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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