2006 Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Quote: For better results try the Compression Bubble Test. Observe the video to the right. Simply remove the secondary filter cap and filter, then top off the housing with fuel just above the standpipe. Pressing down on the bypass valve on top of the standpipe wont open the valve because it has to interlock with a filter before it will move but it should open just enough to allow air to exit. You may also remove the green o-ring at the top of the standpipe but YOU MUST remember to reinstall it after performing this test! Using a remote starter switch, crank the engine with the IGNITION KEY IN THE OFF POSITION. Observe the filter housing watching for any air bubbles coming from the standpipe. The motion of the engine cranking may make bubbles difficult to see. Stop cranking the engine and residual bubbles may still be seen for a few seconds. The presence of air bubbles indicates that a combustion leak exists but this will not help identify a particular cylinder or cylinder bank. Usually, that information is already known from other test data. If you have performed the Balloon Test you will find this method much easier and more effective. Save the balloons for a party. I was just reading the excellent article on the combustion bubble test.I just want to add my opinion on this method. An additional step that I do is to completely remove the plastic stand pipe inside the filter housing, there are 2 small torx screws and a o ring. You will then see the 2 passages that go to each cylinder bank. Jump the starter to crank the engine, then you can look at the small passages to see which cylinder bank the air is coming from. I understand the power balance test will give you a good indication of which bank is giving the trouble, but watching for bubbles gives you solid proof that air is causing the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Great tip if you have an engine that wont run! This way you can at least narrow it down to one side if you intend on removing glow plugs to identify the affected cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Hey Keith, What is the next step to find the affected cylinder(s)?Ive got all of bank one missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Correct me if I'm wrong: Remove FF Disable FP Crank engine by bypassing the starter Observe bubbles in FF, or balloon growing To identify which cylinder, remove all glows plug except one on the affected bank Crank engine Move glow plug until problem reoccurs- you've found the bad boy. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 thanks bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Correct. If you cannot run the engine and run the power balance test to try narrowing it down to a cylinder you must perform the balloon test... err... that test only works with a REALLY bad injector. We have discussed removing the secondary filter, topping off the housing and watching for air bubbles in the fuel while cranking. THEN, removing glow plugs one by one will help identify the offending cylinder. If you have misfire codes for one bank or power balance indicates multiple cylinders on one bank start there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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