pcassidy111 Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 After repairing all of the oil leaks that I could find and being dry for 2000 miles, my personal truck now has a bed plate seal leak behind the starter. After cleaning the area and running the truck on high idle, nose up for 20 minutes I can see oil leaking out around the bed plate bolt behind the starter. CKP and CMP dry and no leaks above it (glow plug harness, CAC etc). There is oil on the rubber bellhousing plug but I don't think it is the RM seal, HPOP cover etc because the oil would have to travel uphill on the bed plate seam to get where I can see it leaking. I added dye this morning to confirm my diagnosis. I will send this repair to Ford but I have a couple of questions. regarding the repair. Has anyone seen a bed plate seal leak on a block with no machining defects? If it requires a short block is it new or reconditioned? (MY 2005, 15K miles) If it is a reconditioned SB is there any way to persuade them to install a new short block? I'd like to get 150K miles out of this truck and I feel that installing a reconditioned SB may not be in my best interest. As always thanks for the help and information, I still have another year or so to learn about these engines before my customer's trucks start coming out of warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Quote: As always thanks for the help and information, I still have another years or so to learn about these engines before my customer's trucks start coming out of warranty. Don't worry Pete, you will still have a few hard lessons to learn - it goes with the territory.All but one of the bed plate leaks that I have dealt with were victims of poor machining or porous metal in the castings. There are many techs that have simply resealed the block and the job was fine. The seals where they meet the front and rear covers must not be stretched and must be assembled all at once with very clean metal surfaces and fresh silicone. Now the ones I did were still new and received new factory engines except for one. The one, I got a NEW short block because re manufactured stock was unavailable at the time. I removed the bed plate on the new block and installed new seals when I bolted on the covers to ensure a good seal where all of the seals meet. (just a recommendation) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcassidy111 Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 Keith, my truck is a 2005, in possession for 13 months and has 15K miles on the odo, would this get a new engine or a short block? My preference is to keep the motor that I have now if it can be sucessfully repaired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I am sure that you would love to be able to do this in your own shop! Rules are rules ya know. IF there was a defect in the block itself then a short block is the way to go. Whether we get a re-man part or a new part relies solely on what is available. The one I did was still new enough that the re-man suppliers had no rebuilt assemblies, just the new seed stock they got from Ford. I have never had any problems with a re-man diesel engine as of yet. But all of this is of course speculation until the engine is out and apart for inspection. You may just need a re-seal. I understand your concerns but I am not going to validate them for the given reasons. I do hope that you have a technician working on your truck that cares and will do the job properly. Sounds like you have been hanging around the TDS forums a little too much! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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