kevin41 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 first time 6.4 cab removal i am using wsm that seems to jump all over i was wondering if anyone has put a list of their own and what is the procedure for heating cab bolts already have the parts list which is a tremendous help thanks in advance for the help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Honestly - if you don't want to use the manual, just use youe head. If you're careful and patient, it will take you some time to do it but you'll learn absolutely everything you need to in order to ge the job done and it will be twice as fast the next time. Just remember to go slowly and pay close attention to anyting that looks like it may bind up as the body as being lifted. As for the cab bolts, I have had good luck with heating the bolt up until the hex-head is glowing, Then, just let it sit for a moment and the heat will transfer through the bolt, melt the loctite, and you can usually unthread them with ease. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Watch out for the TCM on the left frame rail. The shop manual makes no mention of it, and my rack has a tendency to hit it when lifting the body. Also, NO IMPACT ON THE BODY BOLTS. I have found that using an impact makes the nut more likely to spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Cut the heads off the body bolts with the torch. Lift the cab. Trim the bolt off a little closer to the floor. Weld a nut to the bolt, close to the floor, with the MIG set up on the highest voltage setting it'll go to. Make sure you're a good welder, you don't get more than one try at this. It'll melt the loctite -- be careful not to set the carpet on fire. Worked pretty good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin41 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 thanks for the advice !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Cut the heads off the body bolts with the torch.Now that's a great idea..... hell after you get the cab up you could probaly just heat the "stud" with the torch to melt the sieze tight and turn them out with vice grips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Done that too, Dave. I find the welder works a little nicer since all my vise-grips are all worn the hell out -- but if a welder isn't available, yeah you can heat the loctite right up and twist 'em out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Damn people are still coming up with crazy ways to get the cab bolts out? I honestly just get a long 1/2 inch ratchet and remove them without any extra things. It usually takes me about 30 minutes to remove all the bolts unless one spins which is usually in the front unless the cab has been removed by someone else before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 I done 6.4L work cab off and cab on I've had all the bolt come out and had more than a few spin.... If I have the option it's cab off with no spun nuts, I like the cut the heads off idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech03 Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 I can get all of the cab bolts off in no time at all if done by hand with a nice long 1/2" drive ratchet. The front two under the radiator, if they spin we have a cheap 22mm wrench we cut off that slides right in after removing the headlamps to hold the bolts so you can zip them out with the air tool of your choice...30 minutes or less ...every time....too many times unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 I've never gotten them out without breakage, ever. Especially the front two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 I can get all of the cab bolts off in no time at all if done by hand with a nice long 1/2" drive ratchet. The front two under the radiator, if they spin we have a cheap 22mm wrench we cut off that slides right in after removing the headlamps to hold the bolts so you can zip them out with the air tool of your choice...30 minutes or less ...every time....too many times unfortunately +1, Can get to any of the spun cage nuts in no time with a ratchet or cheap cut off 22mm wrench and zip them out in no time, can generally have a cab in the air in a little over an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Must be the salt belt thing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 must be, they use a sand mixture here instead of salt, so we don't GET to deal with as much of that rust stuff as the rest of you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 And I think the problematic part with the front bolts, anyone noticed that they're loctited, as WELL as painted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech03 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I pulled out some front ones out out today that were unpainted? I wonder if it depends on where they were built? The right rear gave me a fit though, stalled a half inch drive impact while I had a helper above holding the nut with a breaker bar, the loctite had gotten seized up in the threads...it eventually worked loose after about a few minutes of CONSTANT hits with a 1/2 drive Snap On impact....I really hope these 6.7's can be repaired without pulling the cab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Steve, we have discussed the cab bolt problem a few times here but I see that you are new - welcome to the DTS by the way! Most of us use a torch to gently heat the body bolts which softens the locking compound on the bolt threads. Apply heat to the bolt heads being careful not to actually melt them or the rubber insulators. You don't need to get them cherry red or anything like that. Just get them hot. Wait a minute or two to allow the heat to travel to the other end of the bolts then loosen the bolts by hand. You should find that works very well. Some techs have resorted to more drastic methods but this works best in my humble opinion. This is one procedure where technique and finesse trumps speed and it really doesn't take vary long this way to begin with. Certainly less time and less aggravation than having to deal with loose cage nuts. See THIS ARTICLE for more information... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech03 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Thanks...never really had much troubles with them seizing like that until yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I had my IR impact on "kill" trying to remove two rear ones with a breaker bar and socket on the top -- it took a good five minutes of hammering on each one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I had my IR impact on "kill" trying to remove two rear ones with a breaker bar and socket on the top -- it took a good five minutes of hammering on each one. In these instances, carefully heating the cage nut from the inside has proved to work well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Should rephrase that... Took 5 minutes hammering the first one. The next one got the gas-axe treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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