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I have seen this a couple of times and would like some input on this issue.Customer comes in for oil leak and their is quite a bit of oil on transmission housing especially RH side.Check all areas prone to cause this type of leak and none are wet.Clean off oiled areas and pour in some dye.Didn't have time to do alot of road testing so return to customer and tell him to drop back by in a day or two and we will check again.Comes back and oil is back on trans housing but it has no dye in it.After looking second time see fluid coming from RH exhuast manifold #7 cylinder.Come to conclusion after pulling egr valve egr cooler is leaking and undoubtably mixing with soot causing a substance that looks like oil and draining down to exhuast manifold.My question is has anyone ever seen oil comming out of exhuast manifold instead of coolant from possible turbo issue or other concern.

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Soot will combine with the coolant turning it black as you suspect... you mentioned a wet EGR valve but what about the coolant level in the degas bottle?

 

If you had oil coming out of the turbocharger it would exit out the down pipe, not the manifold. If you had a base engine concern where you suspect a lot of oil coming from a cylinder I would expect a significant misfire and or a ton of smoke that does not go away. Just to be sure you will want to inspect the turbine housing, down pipe and the CAC tubes for excessive oil. If for no other reason to cover your ass.

 

It is common and I am sure you are aware that a leaking EGR cooler will drain coolant down the right side up-pipe if there is a significant leak and depending on the progression of the leak it may only leak when cold, or only when hot. Either of those scenarios can screw with you. Staining an fluid leaking from the manifold to up-pipe connection is a dead giveaway that the cooler has failed. I have seen a few trucks with black coolant trails leading from the right side exhaust. Not many, but I have seen it.

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I've seen a few with soot that looks like oil also. Just make sure to check everything at this point and verify that there isn't also a turbo issue....Got one in my bay now that has a severely blown egr cooler - coolant coming out the tail pipe AND what looked to be oil. Me being the cautious one told the customer this truck may also need a turbo, but I need to inspect it when I remove it and we'll get back to them. They said go ahead and do it as needed. Got the turbo off late friday and wouldn't you know, the shaft is practically seized in the center housing and lots of oil residue! The shaft still sits centered in the housing, but is very tough to spin by hand.

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The reason I ask this question is this particular truck has a black fluid trail from the manifold but when I pulled egr valve it was almost clogged on top side of egr valve but I see no signs of water in the intake and the buildup on the valve is very dry and almost hard to the touch.I performed a vacuum test at the degas bottle and it held 15in of vacuum for 20 minutes or so.I noticed that the blower wheel side of turbo blue hose is completely covered in wet oil and dust as if oil has been leaking or blowing out of it.It came in late friday and I havent had a chance to get really in depth on it yet.

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Almost every time i pull an egr valve for a failure and it looks a little wet or sticky, i pull the egr cooler pipe to inspect the cooler. Many times i have found egr coolers on the way out,if i see sticky wet substance or wet coolant i change out the cooler and before that i do a cts-eot probe testdrive to rule out an oil cooler-was good when you had to get apprval for coolers but now it saves me the greif of repeat egr cooler failures a few weeks later. This is simple on an e-series and sucks to do on an f-series, but it's worth it. Also i had a few that through a few injectors due to a bad egr cooler due to that sicky mixture of coolant and exaust soot that gets on the injector tips. One time i had to replace all 8.

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Almost every time i pull an egr valve for a failure and it looks a little wet or sticky, i pull the egr cooler pipe to inspect the cooler. Many times i have found egr coolers on the way out,if i see sticky wet substance or wet coolant i change out the cooler and before that i do a cts-eot probe testdrive to rule out an oil cooler-was good when you had to get apprval for coolers but now it saves me the greif of repeat egr cooler failures a few weeks later. This is simple on an e-series and sucks to do on an f-series, but it's worth it. Also i had a few that through a few injectors due to a bad egr cooler due to that sicky mixture of coolant and exaust soot that gets on the injector tips. One time i had to replace all 8.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull a vacuum on the cooling system?

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The vacuum tester is called a cooling system air lift or the Snap-On "RADKITPLUSA" if you shop around you can get something for less than $100 but the snappy is what I own. If your fleet is considered a dealer where special tools are automatically shipped then you might have the one that Ford sent out to the dealers some time ago. I bought my own before I realized we had one. I highly recommend that you get one one way or the other.

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Shhhhiiiittttt, I bought my air lift way back in 2001. Mainly to fill them damn Mercury Villager cooling systems. 'em baistards er a real kick in da dick.

I used to just raise the front of the vehicle up in air just to the point where the rear bumper was about less than an 1/8" from touching the ground with a funnel inserted into the rad filler neck. I just didn't have the patience to mess with the bleeder screw on the intake or the five page WSM procedure. Worked every time too.
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