Keith Browning Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Speaking of turbocharger mounting bolts missing I recently had a 2005 truck in for a no start concern that ended up needing a stand pipe kit. While I was working on the engine I noticed the right bolt was missing and checked for the others. I grabbed a new bolt from my drawer, stuck it in and tightened it and as I did I then noticed that there was a gap between the turbo and the pedestal. Maybe 1/8" or a little more. I thought nothing of it but I did recheck the other bolts again and the turbo looked properly seated in the pedestal. There were no DTC's in the PCM - nope, not even for the low ICP while cranking. Point is, no turbo or lack of boost codes. After getting the truck back together and road testing the truck had a major lack of acceleration and the MIL illuminated. P0299. After the VVT test I ordered the turbo and the other tech on my team installed it while I was in school and it also got a new unison ring for wear. Still had the MIL and the P0299 but acceleration was noticeably improved and you could hear the turbo spool up now. I reran the VVT test and it failed though it did show movement. I replaced the VGT actuator and retested - all is good. I don't think this was a coincidence as the customer never mentioned the MIL or lack of power. Bottom line? I believe I tweaked the turbo housing and the VGT actuator when I drew the replacement bolt in tight. Just thought I would mention this incident... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 HACK! Just kiddin' I couldn't resist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Actually that was what I was thinking after I I did this. The turbo was off down in Texas and I thought that it was not aligned properly when it was put back on... this might explain all the missing bolts we see. Once the turbo goes through some thermal cycles I am sure they must move around a little allowing bolts to become loose and work themselves out. I have seen technicians do HPOP fittings leaving the intake manifold in place which requires them to bend the shit out of the y-pipe. Same guys have trouble getting the y-pipe connection to the turbo to line up. Ever see a guy make that connection then take a long assed pry-bar to force the turbo down onto the pedestal? There ya go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Actually that was what I was thinking after I I did this. The turbo was off down in Texas and I thought that it was not aligned properly when it was put back on... this might explain all the missing bolts we see. Once the turbo goes through some thermal cycles I am sure they must move around a little allowing bolts to become loose and work themselves out. I have seen technicians do HPOP fittings leaving the intake manifold in place which requires them to bend the shit out of the y-pipe. Same guys have trouble getting the y-pipe connection to the turbo to line up. Ever see a guy make that connection then take a long assed pry-bar to force the turbo down onto the pedestal? There ya go! WSM never says anything about removing or loosening the intake manifold. It does say to remove the y-pipe. I personally just loosen the y-pipe and I'm able to remove the cover without bending it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Originally Posted By: Keith Browning Actually that was what I was thinking after I I did this. The turbo was off down in Texas and I thought that it was not aligned properly when it was put back on... this might explain all the missing bolts we see. Once the turbo goes through some thermal cycles I am sure they must move around a little allowing bolts to become loose and work themselves out. I have seen technicians do HPOP fittings leaving the intake manifold in place which requires them to bend the shit out of the y-pipe. Same guys have trouble getting the y-pipe connection to the turbo to line up. Ever see a guy make that connection then take a long assed pry-bar to force the turbo down onto the pedestal? There ya go! WSM never says anything about removing or loosening the intake manifold. It does say to remove the y-pipe. I personally just loosen the y-pipe and I'm able to remove the cover without bending it. +1 - LOOSEN THE Y-PIPE AT BOTH MANIFOLD CONNECTIONS AND IT GIVES YOU PLENTY OF ROOM TO REMOVE THE PUMP COVER WITHOUT HAVING TO BEND ANYTHING. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan302 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 You are lucky to be able to loosen these bolt. 8 Truck/10 came in with these bolt so rusty you can'tell what size of socket you need to remove them. The only way they came out is by using the gaz wrench to cut these sucker I prefer to lift the intake than battle with these bolts. I also like the extra room to do a clean job when the intake is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Originally Posted By: Mikill WSM never says anything about removing or loosening the intake manifold. It does say to remove the y-pipe. I personally just loosen the y-pipe and I'm able to remove the cover without bending it. +1 - LOOSEN THE Y-PIPE AT BOTH MANIFOLD CONNECTIONS AND IT GIVES YOU PLENTY OF ROOM TO REMOVE THE PUMP COVER WITHOUT HAVING TO BEND ANYTHING. Consider removing the intake manifold a throwback to the 2003 model year but my method is derived from madness and there is a definite method to my madness. I live and work in NJ where there is usually more road salt than snow on the ground all winter long and the madness of dealing with the rusted y-pipe nuts (as mentioned) can be enough to make you avoid dealing with them if at all possible. As for the intake manifold, it and the EGR cooler creates two problems. [*]The right side HPOP cover bolts are a pain in the ass to get out with the EGR cooler in place AND as the service manual states, "Use care when removing the pump cover. The three bolts remaining in the pump cover under the EGR cooler can fall out of the pump cover and into the engine under the high-pressure pump." Ever spend time fishing one of those fucking bolts out of the engine? I HAVE! [*]Removing the rear heat shield to enable you to cut the silicone on the right side of the cover seam is a pain in the ass as well. With the EGR cooler out of the way the silicone can be cut easily using a old bent EGR gasket. Additionally I like having the extra room to clean around the pump cover (also as mentioned). You don't "remove" the intake manifold. You remove the manifold bolts and the EGR cooler, use bungee cords to suspend the manifold from the hood. It takes far less time to do that than completely removing the heat shield and messing with the y-pipe bolts. With the EGR cooler out of the way the cover comes right off and out and back in again with ease. I know what the service manual says. Call me crazy but my method induces no aggravation, I no longer go bolt fishing and it actually takes less time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I'm in the intake removal camp as well. Once the turbo is already off, i have decided it less frustrating and just as fast to re and re intake, rather than deal with mud or rust to loosen the y pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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