BLittle500 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Hey guys, Got an 08 in, no crank/no start with codes for ECT_13, KOEO it reads like 1400*. I dont have the truck in front of me, I was just flipping back through some older posts and it seems that a no crank/no start with ECT_13 is kind of common. Not sure when I'm going to get back on this truck, but am I probably looking at just a sensor? Havnt had any of these before and was just curious if a sensor could cause the no crank. Thanks in advance, Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I am not overly confident with this to let a truck roll out with but it is good to know about and consider: 2987 - 2008-2010 F-SUPER DUTY - P20E2, P20E3, P20E4, P2080, P2084, P242B, P0544, P02031, P242A OR P200E SET DUE TO EGT CONNECTION CONCERNS SOME 2008-2009 SUPER DUTIES WITH A 6.4L DIESEL ENGINES EXHIBITING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES P20E2, P20E3, P20E4, P2080, P2084, P242B, P0544, P02031, P242A OR P200E. THIS MAY BE DUE TO INTERMITTENT CONNECTIONS AT EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE(EGT)SENSOR CONNECTORS(C3301-03) OR INLINE CONNECTOR C110. ALLOW EXHAUST SYSTEM TO STABILIZE TO THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE PRIOR TO MONITORING EGT SENSOR PID'S. IF EGT SENSOR PID VALUE IS WITHIN 20C(36F)OF ONE ANOTHER PERFORM A WIGGLE TEST TO IDENTIFY SUSPECT SENSOR. IF EGT SENSOR PID VALUE IS NOT WITHIN 20C(36F) OF OTHER PID VALUES, DISCONNECT SUSPECT SENSOR AND CLEAN THE CONNECTION AND C110 CONNECTOR PINS WITH CONTACT CLEANER. APPLY DIELECTRIC GREASE BEFORE RECONNECTING. CONFIRM REPAIR BY MONITORING EGT PID'S. IF SUSPECT EGT SENSOR IS STILL OUT OF RANGE, FOLLOW NORMAL PC/ED PPT RC DIAGNOSTICS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLittle500 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Keith, had followed that SSM yesterday, and also did the paramerter reset. Guess I should have mentioned that, eh? Thanks again for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Yes. A bad egt sensor will cause the vehicle to not start. If you have a bad egt sensor the pcm cannot determine what the temperature of the exhaust is so it shuts it down so that the system will not damage its self or possibly overheat and cause a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Just make sure that when you attempt to remove the sensor, have that bung on the DPF glowing cherry red as you work it loose. Several techs (myself included) have ended up replacing the DPF being unable to remove it without damaging it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I will second that advice Mikey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I was told not to replace the DPF anymore if the sensor does not come out. So now I just break the sensor and place and socket over it and remove it. Never had a problem getting the claim paid as long as I mention that I had to break sensor in order to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 When all else fails, heat the nut part on the sensor up after breaking it off carefully till it's glowing, then hit it with cold water to quench it. It'll twist out with your fingers. That is usually what I try first. And just for the incident of failure of this sensor? I got one in the center console I can plug into the harness should the sensor fail on the road, so I can get to the next stop to change 'er out. Had a tow in with the no crank/no start, walked out with IDS, checked codes, popped the hood and bumped the starter over with the wire under the hood, drove the truck into the shop. Customer standing there: "How the fuck'd you do that?!" The sensor in that one was going back and forth between about 80F and -40 with the truck running, or KOEO. Changed out the sensor, good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Did you remove all your sensors and never seize them Aaron, incase of a roadside repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Yep. Cab mount bolts, too, at 5000kms, out, and anti-seized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 sweet, another good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I wasn't sure where to post this, so I thought I'd revive an old thread. I got a tow truck darkening my doorstep right now with P0672, P0674, P0676, P0678, P0297, P200E and P242E. The P06XX codes are on-demand. This thing has a cracked right side EDOC up-pipe which we know is pretty common on these. The complaint is the "PULL OVER SAFELY NOW" idiot message appearing on the message center and not being able to re-start (with the key). I realize it's a no-brainer that an EGT_13 will cause a no-crank/no-start. But by the time it arrives, it starts and runs. Monitored EGT_11, EGT_12 and EGT_13 volts and *F PIDs. All are within 0.3 to 4.6 volts at KOEO. Wiggle tested per PC/ED. Last time it was in, I sent him on his merry way. Now it's back and they want to spend $$$ to fix. I am reluctant to call an EGT_13 even though I know it's common, just by virtue of the fact that readings are within specs at this time. Information from the owner is that the DOC has been hollowed out. Just wondering if THAT can cause those DTCs to set. Vehicle is out of warranty. Checked OASIS on it. This thing has had several major repairs, including repairs that required the engine to be R & R'd twice at many dealers. Also several CuDL reports. The GP circuit and cracked EDOC pipe he doesn't give a shit about, so I guess the P200E and P242E is what I should focus on. I have already quoted a DPF and gasket in case I am unsuccessful in removing EGT_13 without damage (but not before I put a concerted effort into removing it). I just want to make sure there isn't anything I'm missing, so I don't end up inheritting a "wedding ring" given that it's RETAIL. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 First off if he doesn't "give a shit" about repairing it properly then why should you? It is a system and should be working in it's entirety. As for the EGT_13 we have had a few sensors fail in a way that they would test fine in the shop but fail when they got hot. You can do all the things the Hot-Line recommends about checking the harness and the connector which is good but on a repeat visit the sensor needs to be changed. I pissed off a couple of customers "doing the right thing" and I prefer to err on the side of customer satisfaction. None of the trucks I put a sensor in have come back again for the same thing. The only thing you should be paranoid about with EGT sensors is to be sure your fuel trims are not out of line and that the engine isn't "sipping" oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 FWIW I have always been able to duplicate EGT 13 concerns when the truck goes into regen, but without a DOC I wouldn't think the exhaust would heat up much during regen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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