Mbl35 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Got to do heads on 07 f350 lance. We want to install head studs. I dont feel like pulling the cab becuase the a/c and heater lines are a bitch. Can i install the studs incab? Whats the manufacturer of the studs-part#? Thanks. Oops i meant f 350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 As far as I could tell, the ARP product number for 6.0L head studs is 250-4202: As far as installing in cab, if I read correctly, you are referring to an E-Series, correct? If so, I can't imagine why you would want to put yourself through the torture of even THINKING about attempting this in cab (which is impossible by the way). At the very least, if you choose to leave the cab bolted to the chassis, you will have to do it the "dirty way" pulling the engine out the front, doing it out of vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Mike, 07 f-350. We are short on space in my bay to lift the cab i would have to spin it around the other way and it would be in the oposing bay where one of the day shift guys work. So to do studs you got to either lift cab or pull motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Aaaahhhhh, the devil is in the details. Now that we have clarified that it is an F-Series NOT an E-Series, that changes the spin on things a little. YES, I believe it IS possible on an F-Series (I've just never done it that way personally), but it's TIGHT from what I've read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Yea, the last time i did that mistake was on a post about 04 or 05 escape mil, i initially said 09 escape. Ok you think it's possible with that new angle adapter that just came out. And or it's tight due to clearance placing heads down over stus or can the studs be placed in after the heads are sitting on the block? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 BOTTOM REAR STUD ON LEFT HAS TO BE PUT IN WITH HEAD/ROCKER BOX, ALL OTHERS YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET IN ONCE THE HEADS ARE IN POSITION ON THE DOWEL PINS. GOOD LUCK ON EDIT: ALSO IF YOU LOOSEN ALL THE BODY MOUNT BOLTS, YOU CAN LIFT THE FRONT OF THE CAB HIGH ENOUGH TO PUT A 4X4 BETWEEN THE FRAME AND THE FRONT OF THE CAB WHICH WILL GIVE YOU A LITTLE MORE ROOM IF YOU'RE MOTIVATED AS SUCH. IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT THE NEW ADAPTER TOOL FROM SNAP ON, BUT THE ADAPTER LOOKS LIKE IT'LL MAKE IT MUCH EASIER ON THAT REAR BOLT/STUD. I ALWAYS OPT FOR PULLING THE EVAPORATOR CASE (TAKES ME 15 MINUTES AND MAKES SOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH ROOM ON THE RIGHT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I just did one with studs and the cab on. No big deal. Put the rear two studs in the driver's side head/rockerbox before you put it on and hold them up with rubber bands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 so hows the back after that one Aaron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 Just got back on it now and just pulled the evap. case off. I got busy with some oter work. I'll try to pull the heads before i go home at two but i doubt it, problobly just the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 16, 2010 Author Share Posted April 16, 2010 Aaron, how is the clearance for the rear head studs on the left? Do you use the same socket as the bolts? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 I just did 'em on an F-550, and i had no clearance issues. The socket is 11/16" 12-pt. I at first was using a chrome husky semi-deep, until that cost me all eight knuckles when the fuckin thing broke. I finished up with a shallow 11/16 12-pt craftsman. No real interference issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 so hows the back after that one Aaron? I got it about halfway done. Had the heads and everything on it when I was admitted to the hospital for a week. They had the other heavy line guy finish it up while I was off because the county needed the truck back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 That was the last heavy job I did. And I'm uncertain as to when the next one is gonna be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Share Posted April 17, 2010 Exellent, thanks I cut a 1" gash on my lower thumb knuckle wrenching off the heatshield bolt on bank 2. Luckly i work in ambulance co., no shortage of bandages here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Wait...this is an F series, right? You said ambulance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Share Posted April 17, 2010 Yea, o7 f350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Waiting on the studs. Is the torque spec the same as the bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 The torque specs have changed in the ARP bolt kits. If you get a blue pack of thread lubricant that is called Ultra Torque Lubricant, the spec is now 210 ft/lbs. The older white bag of lubricant was Moly lubricant and the spec was 245 ft/lbs. I talked to ARP about this and they said the old Moly lubricant created allot of nut chatter. the new lubricant should cut down drastically on the chatter. Either way, there will the little piece of paper in the box that tells you the torque spec. Just thought I'd mention it though so no one misses it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 ok thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillWiebe Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 If you undo the transmission mount nuts and lift the trans up until it hits the floor of the cab you can install the LH lower rear head stud after the head is in place. Have done several this way. Also helps wiith socket clearance when torqueing the nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Bill...... that sounds like a cool fucking idea.... Thinking outside the box.... WOW.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share Posted April 25, 2010 Nice! Keep em coming fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 I don't know about the trans mount idea on a 4x4 truck, wouldn't you have transfer case issues? If you guys are doing cylinder heads in-chassis the way I do, (cooling stack out so you can stand right in the engine compartment), removing the LH motor mount, would likely drop the motor to give you some more room to drop the studs in. Never tried it, just a thought. Or you could be like the guy that did the EGR coolers on the harley truck I was repairing a wiring harness under the carpet on... F-450 Harley 2008. CUT A FUCKING HOLE IN THE FLOOR TO ACCESS THE EGR COOLER BOLTS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share Posted April 25, 2010 The arp kit i got requires the studs be torqued 210 ft lbs. in 3 incraments. Mine is rwd only so i think i'll try the jacking thing. I just got the studs the other day and i got to clear up some other stuff before i get back on it. So 210 divided by 3 rite? Not sure i only know the degree way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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