Head stud questions

[Aaron]

I did 'em 70 ftlbs at a time

 

70, 140, 210.

[Shlep]

I did 'em 70 ftlbs at a time

 

70, 140, 210.

Same here

[Mbl35]

Thanks.

[cheldmann]

i was also wondering about pulling the motor mounts to make things easier. anyone tried it? ive always pulled the cab, but my lift comes out of the floor and the spare twin post lift went to the new guy we just hired so il have to start doing them in cab, only done one this way, only thing i didnt like was tourqing them.

[2006]

I just did head studs on a 4x4 a few weeks ago. I did what was said on a previous message, unbolt the trans mount and raise the rear of the trans as far as it will go. You can then install the studs after positioning the head.

 

Another trick I found by accident, when doing oil coolers, raise the back end of the truck about 2 feet. This will make it easier to work in the engine compartment and when removing the old oil cooler, all of the oil in the oil resevior, will travel to the front of the resevior instead of going to the rear h.p. pump passage. This will prevent any dirt from getting into the h.p. pump and ipr valve.

[Keith Browning]

when doing oil coolers, raise the back end of the truck about 2 feet. This will make it easier to work in the engine compartment and when removing the old oil cooler, all of the oil in the oil resevior, will travel to the front of the resevior instead of going to the rear h.p. pump passage. This will prevent any dirt from getting into the h.p. pump and ipr valve

 

[Mbl35]

I was able to get back on it before, installed the heads, loosened the transmount, jacked it up and the lower left stud went rite in. Anxiety over.