robp823 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 2005 E-Series crank no start.Its just a regular E-Series no ambulance.Fuel pressure is good builds ICP quick should fire.Only codes were B1318-Battery voltage low,B1352-Ignition key in circuit fault,P2614-Camshaft output circuit open.The P2614 was non continous however the B1318 and B1352 are continous.Followed the PPT for the B1352 for the hell of it and led to replace the cluster.But i dont think that a cluster would cause a no start.Batteries are a little iffy.Even with the charger on them they only crank healthy for about five seconds then start to drain out.Visually looked at the cam sensor and connector and looked ok.Any ideas fellas???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I would suggest wiggle testing the cam sensor wire. I had one before with an intermittent open. I overlayed a wire and it was fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Do you have SYNC and FICM SYNC? There are some great threads on here about checking and fixing cam and crank sensor signal problems. Not really enough information to help much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Got an o4 in the bay right now. Stuck in the parking area. Crank no start. Builds icp, has rpm and ficm sync and sync read no. I first wiggled the body harness next to the relay box-no start. Then i reached in and wiggled the engine harness coming out of the pcm and it started up and ran like crap and stalled, started it up and reved it, drove in the shop. This one needs an engine harness, a crank sensor and an egr-p1335 at best. We do quite a few engine harnesses around here. Also iv'e been finding a few distorted cam sensors and a few crank sensors falling apart with shells getting stuck in the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan302 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Check for rust under the CMP sensor, this can cause the P2614 and the no start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 2005 E-Series crank no start.Its just a regular E-Series no ambulance.Fuel pressure is good builds ICP quick should fire.Only codes were B1318-Battery voltage low,B1352-Ignition key in circuit fault,P2614-Camshaft output circuit open.The P2614 was non continous however the B1318 and B1352 are continous.Followed the PPT for the B1352 for the hell of it and led to replace the cluster.But i dont think that a cluster would cause a no start.Batteries are a little iffy.Even with the charger on them they only crank healthy for about five seconds then start to drain out.Visually looked at the cam sensor and connector and looked ok.Any ideas fellas???? By "non continuous" do you mean "on demand"? I'm not even sure that a P2614 will set as on demand. Are you taking advantage of the diesel diag sheets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Harness I agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 My dealer doesnt have diesel diag sheets.I suppose i could print some out.Anyway watching pids while cranking FICMSYNC and SYNC read no while cranking and FUELPW reads 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 My dealer doesnt have diesel diag sheets.I suppose i could print some out.Anyway watching pids while cranking FICMSYNC and SYNC read no while cranking and FUELPW reads 0.Harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Get in there and shake that thing it should start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 ahhahahah got in there and did just that and it fired right up.Thanks guys!Should i even bother load testing the cam sensor circuits or just put the harness in??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 just put the harness in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Last shft i was putting an engine haness in an 05,as i was plugging it in to the ficm, the large connector wouldnt plug in unless i flipped it upside down. I removed the connecor shell and tried to reverse it but i could not get all of the pins to stay lined up at the same time in the pin retainer. Were sending it back defective. Now i'm doing a harness on an 04. Hope i don't run into the same shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 You had the whole harness in the van and then the FICM wouldn't plug in? Oh, I'd be sour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 No, i just layed it in bank 2 area and snaked the harness down toward the ficm and started plugging it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 What does this pay?Its not warranty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I charge 10 hours (CP) on a truck, haven't done one on a van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Vans are a pain. The radiator has to come out, stator, fan, pretty much all the pulleys,upper and lower alternators, lower alternator bracket and i like to remove the vacuum pump with the bracket together and the coolant hose that goes into the front cover-it makes routing the cmp harness less painful. I hav'nt checked what it pays cause i don't work retail but if guys are getting 10hrs for a truck, i would think like 12-15 for a van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 Well tell me i didnt get screwed.My service department paid me 9 hours to do a harness on an econoline.Said they couldnt find what it pays so thats what they felt was appropiate.Meanwhile ive got 15 + hours into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 I have done 3 E-van harnessess and got 8 hours the 1st time, and had to FIGHT for 8 hours the next 2 times. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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