Removing RH adaptor pipe without pulling trans?

[fordtech03]

We have a F-450 supercrew in with a leaking RH adaptor pipe, it has a utility body on and it is too heavy for any of our lifts. The vehicle sits pretty low, these are for the highway crew supervisors.I can get the body off, but would rather not. Pulling the trans on the floor is an option but I'm not sure if I can pull it far enough back to get the downpipe out without jacking the front of the vehicle way up to get the trans out of the way. Basically I think it turns in to just as much work as pulling the cab... Has anyone tried pulling it out without pulling the trans?

[joshbuys]

I tried on the first one I did to get it out w/out pulling the trans, and I couldn't do it. I would recommend pulling the cab if you can't lift it, pulling trans on floor sucks if you don't have much room under truck.

 

Another possibility might be putting truck on jack stands (if you've got some that can handle it's weight) so that you've got room to pull the trans.

[Brad Clayton]

I have heard tale of somebody over at the FMC boards saying he pulls the right radius arm out to get them out. Must be an ex alignment tech or something.

[joshbuys]

I have heard tale of somebody over at the FMC boards saying he pulls the right radius arm out to get them out. Must be an ex alignment tech or something.

 

Alignment.....is that really necessary?!?!

 

Sounds like more work than it's worth seeing as how I can have the trans out in 25 min

[Keith Browning]

Seriously, I agree. the trans comes out fairly quickly. I can see jamming your meat hooks and a wrench back there and torturing yourself but why would you want to do that? Even with the cab off I commonly have a problem with one or two inlet pipe bolts and have to break out the torch.

[Coolcat390]

send me a email, i have a short cut for this percedure. usvictory45@aol.com

[Aaron]

Post the fucker up here! We're all pals on here, this ain't FMCDEALER...

[Coolcat390]

pull all the cab bolts except for the back 2. Disconnect the battery cables and the CAC hoses. Lift the front of the cab ( be mindfully of how close the bed is to the cab). Lift it high enought that you can get a 4x4 under the first cab mount. Remmove the R/S inner fender and trans dipstick if equip. Should have no problems R/R inlet pipe or downtube.

[mchan68]

Just curious. Has anyone been able to remove any of the five upper bolts without having to break out the flame wrench to persuade every one of them? Or is it just me?

[Keith Browning]

It's not just you Mike. The last one I had apart fought me on 3 bolts and one turbo shield bolt snapped off in the housing.

[Coolcat390]

We had one come from another dealer were the last tech broke the bolts off in the turbo. Instead of drilling it out they put a c-clamp on the flang and shipped it. Quality is job none!

[Aaron]

I broke a cage nut putting the fucking bolts back in!

 

With the loctite cleared off, and anti seize on it...it STILL fuckin broke!

 

Oh I was SOUR.

[joshbuys]

I can usually get the bolts out after letting them sit with PB Blaster on them for about 10 minutes, still have those that need the torch though!

[Aaron]

The most problematic ones I find are the front two... I have seen most of them not only have loctite on them, but they're fuckin PAINTED too!

[mchan68]

The most problematic ones I find are the front two... I have seen most of them not only have loctite on them, but they're fuckin PAINTED too!

Are we talking about cab bolts or up-pipe to turbo bolts?

[joshbuys]

I was speaking of the up pipe bolts. it appears Aaron was talking about cab bolts, my fault for not quoting

 

Just curious. Has anyone been able to remove any of the five upper bolts without having to break out the flame wrench to persuade every one of them? Or is it just me?

[Jim Warman]

"Quality is job none?". I don't see Ford as being the major problem in this instance.

 

If you break a bolt, you fix it... thios is the kind of shit that happens "every day". This is why we are mechanics...

 

To a very great degree... Ford isn't our enemy.... we are our own enemy and prove it day after day.

[Aaron]

^^^ Yeah, what he said. I'd punch that tech in the teeth if I met him.

 

And yeah, I was refering to cab mounts.

[mchan68]

What exactly are you guys claiming for this particular job in SLTS? They kicked back the MT time I took for partial cab lift. You guys are all just claiming the 6854AR for 6.3 by itself?

[BrunoWilimek]

Yup. If it isn't in the shop manual, you generally have to lie and say you did it the way the shop manual or SLTS says you are to do it. Same as the 6.0 cab lift, which is not a "required" operation to do head gaskets, yet every one I do gets the cab lifted, yet I have never claimed for it.

[Coolcat390]

Look in SLTS under the basic number 6k854, the turbo pipe pays 6.3 hours

[dcshoo4]

I just removed the rh up pipe on an f550 boom truck today using "coolcat390's" method, and it went very smooth. I found myself in the same boat (with a truck that weighs 19500 lbs.) Lifting it was not an option. A huge pto to run the boom, had hoses and wire harnesses all over it. So pulling the trans on my back didn't sound like much fun. I pulled the cab bolts, cac tubes, and battery cables. Lifted the cab just high enough to get a pair of 4x4 blocks of wood under the core support and removed the trans dipstick tube. This provided ample room to remove the down pipe through the top. The top up pipe bolts all broke loose, and the lowers came out nicely as well. the up pipe slid out the bottom with out having to remove the inner fender well. This is a great short cut if the situation is right. I highly recommend using it to save a lot of time and headaches. Thanks for the short cut "coolcat390"

[Mekanik]

pull all the cab bolts except for the back 2. Disconnect the battery cables and the CAC hoses. Lift the front of the cab ( be mindfully of how close the bed is to the cab). Lift it high enought that you can get a 4x4 under the first cab mount. Remmove the R/S inner fender and trans dipstick if equip. Should have no problems R/R inlet pipe or downtube.

I can't wait to try this.

[mchan68]

pull all the cab bolts except for the back 2. Disconnect the battery cables and the CAC hoses. Lift the front of the cab ( be mindfully of how close the bed is to the cab). Lift it high enought that you can get a 4x4 under the first cab mount. Remmove the R/S inner fender and trans dipstick if equip. Should have no problems R/R inlet pipe or downtube.

I just tried this method for the first time today. THANKS Coolcat390!!!!

[DieselD]

Im doing one today as well. These used to have body off procedures in the WSM and now they say to pull the trans for a total of 6.3 hours so if this is easier then that Im stoked to try it.

 

of course this is a crewcab work body 4wd heavy turd too heavy to rack. working on my back blows