06 F350... #7 lifter and camshaft damage

STROKER_T · May 11, 2010

Hey yall....got an 06 F350 (99,500 miles) here with an engine noise,a tick if u will....after all the exhausting hoop jumpin with Ford and finally given the ok to tear down,the noise concern has been isolated to the #7 roller lifter and camshaft lobe,the second lobe from the rear of engine...boss wants me to install 1 lifter and a camshaft....no problem,i'll knock it out....then I remembered i've NEVER had to remove a camshaft from a 6.0...or a 7.3 for that matter... Posted Image

So how far do i need to tear down for camshaft replacement...? I'm thinkin with rear engine cover removed along with branch tube and lifters out,the cam should slide right out the back....any ideas or advise is greatly appreciated,i'm on warranty clock time Posted Image

Thanks again,this is gonna be great....

mchan68 · May 11, 2010

This is an ENGINE-OUT repair if I understand correctly. This is due to the fact that there are SIX what I call "DO-NOT-FUCK-WITH" bolts that secure a flange on the rear of the crank, that the cam gear won't clear, thus mandating complete crank removal to complete this repair. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

rlchv70 · May 11, 2010

For the record, you might be able to do it in-chassis, but I don't recommend it. You'll either have to remove the rear crank flange (not recommended) or find a way to drop the bedplate and crankshaft.

On a 6.0L, I don't think there's a way to do this without removing the heads since the head bolts hold the rockers in place. On a 6.4L, you can remove the rockers and pushrods, flip the engine over, spin it a couple of times so the lifters get pushed up into the guides, and then pull the cam.

STROKER_T · May 11, 2010

Yep,Michael...thats sorta what i was noticing,the workshop manual doesnt even have a removal for camshaft listed,except for a small portion in engine disassembly AFTER the crankshaft is removed....holy shit,that is not cool...at all.

What a shit storm this is becoming....i don't mind doin the job at all,but for what it pays....not cool Posted Image

mchan68 · May 11, 2010

Yep,Michael...thats sorta what i was noticing,the workshop manual doesnt even have a removal for camshaft listed,except for a small portion in engine disassembly AFTER the crankshaft is removed....holy shit,that is not cool...at all.

What a shit storm this is becoming....i don't mind doin the job at all,but for what it pays....not cool

Why aren't you submitting a cost cap to FoMoCo for a long/short block? Let me guess, warranty numbers too high?

mchan68 · May 11, 2010

For the record, you might be able to do it in-chassis, but I don't recommend it. You'll either have to remove the rear crank flange (not recommended) or find a way to drop the bedplate and crankshaft.

On a 6.0L, I don't think there's a way to do this without removing the heads since the head bolts hold the rockers in place. On a 6.4L, you can remove the rockers and pushrods, flip the engine over, spin it a couple of times so the lifters get pushed up into the guides, and then pull the cam.

I was told that the crank flange is machined while bolted up from the factory during assembly, meaning that if that flange is removed, it is considered junk or will cause a permanent unrepairable oil leak if re-installed.

STROKER_T · May 11, 2010

I'm one of 4 truck techs in this shop,w/ 2 diesel certified car techs next door...so yeah,we got warranty number issues,but it has gotten better...i suppose...the time lost on this job already is just ridiculous...and from the looks of the situation it suckin more by the minute....

Bottom line is this truck has to be fixed,and my motorhead boss says he wants a camshaft and lifter only replaced,apparently not realizing or caring whats involved to do so...looks like mucho o-rings and gaskets...and who knows what else till tear down is completed..,. Posted Image

rlchv70 · May 11, 2010

I was told that the crank flange is machined while bolted up from the factory during assembly, meaning that if that flange is removed, it is considered junk or will cause a permanent unrepairable oil leak if re-installed.

The crankshaft is machined with the flange installed. They don't want you to remove it due to the issues you state.

However, International dealers are allowed to change it. This version includes a secondary geartrain that drives the power steering pump and a mechanical LP fuel pump. They want to be able to change it in the event of geartrain failure.

If you are very careful swapping it, use new bolts, properly torque it, and check runout afterwards, it can be done.

Bit of trivia: the crankshafts are machined with the Ford flange installed. The International flange is then swapped in its place when designated for that application.

Mbl35 · May 11, 2010

A dealer did a warrenty job for us recently- there was a foreign bolt laying in the oilpan that was sticking out of the oil drain hole. I can't understand how it got there. Anyway, it went to the dealer cause we were swamped. It ran fine without any noises. When it came back, the summary of repairs stated that the camshaft was replaced due to worn lobe and lifter/s-not sure which one/s-paper not in front of me. I belive they had the bedplate off. The safest way to do it would be to remove the crank. Good luck.

Brad Clayton · May 11, 2010

Sounds like a good time to head for Tampa! Posted Image

mchan68 · May 11, 2010

Bit of trivia: the crankshafts are machined with the Ford flange installed. The International flange is then swapped in its place when designated for that application.

VERY interesting to know. So, you mean if a 6.0L Ford Powerstroke Crank becomes destined to reside inside a BLUE engine block to become a VT365, it gets a Navistar specific flange bolted to it after?

rlchv70 · May 11, 2010

Yep. But now that Indy is shut down, they may be doing it differently.

STROKER_T · May 11, 2010

Brad,u'r tooooo funny Posted Image

Thanks guys for the input,after showing boss per manual that there is no listing for cam replacement UNLESS crankshaft is removed,i've now been instructed to try to obtain prior approval for short block Posted Image ....

Had some help with an FSA named Dan Garant...super nice guy,he spent a good bit of time w/ chassis ears and lots of revving of the engine,i kept hoping it would break good at that time just to simplify things...he came to the same conclusion that noise was in pass/rear of engine...way to go Dan....

Thanks again guys for everything,awesome i tell ya....not for nothing but there's a topic on IDS 66 causing VCM issues...jus so happened one of the guys flashed ANOTHER techs IDS w/66,guess what,VCM would not communicate....asked the FSA (Dan) about it,he ain't heard nada...nothing...zip...i was so proud to tell him how too fix w/ 64 reflash....got it from this website,a Posted Image diesel mechanics go-to...abso-frigginlutely....