ErickBaker Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 I have a late build 2003 or early build 2004 with a no start. While cranking ICP is bouncing between 200-500 psi. I've never had a no start with icp pressure this high or this much variation. I've already tried a known good IPR and ICP sensor. My gut feeling is that it's not going to be something normal. I was just wondering if any of you guys have seen this before I start pulling the valve covers to block off the rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Have you checked base oil pressure and oil condition/level/etc? I have to assume you mean a motor with the ICP at the back? Is the sensor biased or the connector oil soaked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 I would first try to start it with the ICP unplugged. The pid will default to 750PSI. Assuming it won't start, chack base oil pressure. Take the oil filter out and crank the engine over. You should see the canister fill up with oil. My guess is you have a bad high pressure pump. But you will probabaly need to leak test the high pressure oil system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 I dead headed the pump and it didn't make much more pressure. I've got it torn down, I'm just waiting for a chance to put it back together. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blown99 Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 How do you dead head the hpop on a 6.0? Remove the STC fitting and install a gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 There are some block off tools available... On the early builds, you block off the hoses... not quite familiar with the ones for late builds... yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 On the late builds you have a couple of fittings that screw into the top of the standpipes and one has a place for the ICP to screw into. I've seen many more late builds with high pressure oil leaks than early builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Eric... you made me remember why I'm not familiar with the tools.... We just air up the high pressure system through the ICP hole, ramp up the IPR and use a small diameter hose to localize the concern.... FWIW, this is how w do the early builds now, too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 Early on in my diesel experience I tried the air test a few times from the instruction of hotline. I never got any results from the test, for this reason I just got used to pulling the valve covers for any ICP related no-start. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif Hotline told me I should hear a good amount of airflow, I heard none. How much air pressure do you guys use? Our shop is regulated to 130 psi I believe. How closely do you have to listen to hear the air leak, or how loud is sound of rushing air? I have gotten used to not using this test due to poor results. Maybe with your help I can get the desired results. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HGM Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 The trick to the air test is to make sure you give it time to blow the oil out of the rails.. A stethescope is a must.. A hose will work, but stethescopes are better.. If you completely understand where all the parts are and systematicly listen along the whole system(that you can get to) you will find the leak 95% of the time with shop air.. I also recommend using the block heater to your advantage.. Plug it in before you go home and test it the next day.. You can listen arround 7 and 8 push rods to decide if its one side or the other before pulling the turbo. If its one side, its probably the standpipe. If its both sides, its probably the connector/J-tube, or branch tube.. You can then air test it with the turbo and HPOP cover off too(just dont use the ICP hole on '03/'04).. I'm a firm believer in this test and rarely use the block off tools, but together they are great for hi pressure leaks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 About how long does it take to push all the air out of the rails? And thanks in advance for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HGM Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 I would say, be patient.... Apply the air, let it blow for a couple min, then turn the IPR up and you should hear a change in airflow in the engine..Just dont rush it, most guys dont trust the air test because they are in a hurry and dont hear it right off the bat and think its not leaking..I've had air on a system, on and off, for 30min before I heard an injector finaly let go, leaking badly.. Thi is where the heat comes into play, cold oil is plenty thick to seal a 130# air pressure test...Dont forget that the WDS/IDS will only let you control the IPR for 5min or so at a time, you may hear a bad leak develop and it just be the IPR leaking because it fell back to 14%.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 Good advice! Patience is the key to this test because the air has to displace the engine oil or at least enough to open a path before it can leak. The oil is pretty thick on a cold engine. Since many of the trucks you would be performing this test on won't run so they will be cold... try plugging in the block heater and come back to it a few hours later. This helps on the smaller leaks at the injectors. By the way, I discovered this trick way back when we had all those injectors leaking fuel into the crankcase. Some would not leak when cold but when warmed up the dye began to show! I thought that was a really slick trick myself. I give the Hot Line credit for that one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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