Brad Clayton Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I put this together the other day, and with Keith's help was able to format it into a PDF for everyones viewing pleasure. I hope that anyone who has not done this yet can get a good idea of what's involved. An '05 up differs slightly but is much easier. This file was rather large so I broke it down into 5 parts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabfoes87 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Great job. I gotta say though that is the rustiest superduty I have ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabfoes87 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Thats not even that bad. The flame wrench is probablly the most used shop tool we use due to the corrsion rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Nice write-up Brad. What I found very interesting in it, is the way you access the crew cab specific cab bolts. Up until reading this, I've always done it by removing the rear seat completely. But I've found that by doing it this way, often requires the assistance of one or two fellow co-workers due to the weight of the rear seat. Making it even more of a pain is when it's one of those seats that has one of those fold-out untility trays underneath, making an already heavy rear seat even heavier. The biggest challenge is finessing it out of the cab through the rear door openings while making sure you don't scratch up the door panel in the process. But after this I may try your method next time. It is also noteworthy to mention, when removing the package tray behind the rear seat, NOT to use an air ratchet or impact gun when removing the three 8mm bolts. I have found many a time, when removing them, at least one of them gives me problems so I now remove them with a hand ratchet to avoid stripping them during removal. For those of you who remove the three lines at the HCU (like I do), have you noticed that the third line (closest to the outer side) always seems to give you problems when trying to re-thread it back into the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 I have quit removing the seats all together. I just use an air ratchet and get underneath the carpet and do it that way. As Mike said the rear seat is just to much to handle and I prefer to touch as little of the interior as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Quote: I just use an air ratchet and get underneath the carpet Unfortunately that aint gonna happen up here. Just too much rust and them bolts seize right in there. It would be nice though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Brad: Wow! Terrific writeup and attention to detail. Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thank you very much fellas. I appreciate all the feedback (positive being my favorite ). I think the document is getting ready to be tweaked a bit, which will make it even better. First timers that want to use it can probably put it right on there desktop at work. I have all the coffee table books on my puter desktop in my bay. Super easy to visit on a frequent basis once they're downloaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Clyde Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Very good work Brad, great resource for many who are unsure of how it is done . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 I like the front seat removal method. I'm gonna try that on the next one for sure. Excellent article!! I use masking tape and a felt pen line at the headlights/ front bumper and box front rail/cab back panel for alignment reference. Anybody notice how poorly the bodies are lined up on these from factory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabfoes87 Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Brads pdf breakdown helped me out a lot on my first cab/body off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Quote: I just use an air ratchet and get underneath the carpet Unfortunately that aint gonna happen up here. Just too much rust and them bolts seize right in there. It would be nice though. We have rusty ones here and what I do is to loosen them first with my 1/2" long-handled ratchet and short sockets, then use my high powered Blue-Point air ratchet to finish the job. I have a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer that is only 1/8" thick to allow me to use the 1/2" sockets on my air ratchet. Works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyf Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 where is the pdf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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