Aaron Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 TSB 10-20-10 Use an IMPACT wrench! WOO! But only on the front two though... dang. Shakin' my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezul Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I never had any luck when using the impact, loads of heat and the three foot johnson bar is the only method that works for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I like the idea of putting pressure on the cage nut by jacking up on the body. A BUTANE torch for 15 seconds? Sorry Ford. That is not going to be effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 I have used a butane torch on the back bolts with good results but the front bolts need the flame wrench in order to work. I have been lifting so many cabs lately that I don't bother with the wrenching out by hand method anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Impact gun on every one!! MAPP gas torch for 1 - 2 minutes on head of bolt and then zap it out, don't bother trying this method on the front ones (they will spin EVERY time!!) Pull the headlamps, put some flame directly on the cage nut, then put the customized 22mm wrench on them and zap 'em out!! Cab in air in 60 - 90 minutes!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Funny, I put some shims in the body mounts of a 2011 f-350 supercab the other day, to correct a creak / groan on uneven ground. There is aa tsb for it, following tsb instructions they recomended loosening cab bolts by hand and then using air impact to complete removal. I thought, sweet, they fixed the crappy cage nut problem on the new trucks. It wasnt until after i was done and looking at the front page that i noticed it is the same tsb from 08 thru 2011. Same cage nuts, same bolts. None of them stripped though. On the front ones (that strip anyways, seems like all lately) I remove the headlight and "install" a 1/2" long tack weld with the mig welder. The heat loosens the locktite and the weld holds the nut. It also helps with cab re-aligning, the nut nolonger moves, so the bolt will only start if the cab is exactly where it was before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 If you think about this, the trucks, the mounts, the bolts and those freakin cage nuts have not changed. We have all been dealing with this issue for several years now and have discovered/developed techniques that work. Food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 I have given up on trying to remove the bolts by hand. I just use a socket and breaker bar up on top and have someone pull them out with an impact on the bottom. Has worked real well so far. As far as the front 2 I still pull them by hand but put a jack stand under the body to put pressure on the cage nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Bedford Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 I heat them all with a torch and remove by hand. If the front ones still feel tight after heating, I just cut the head off. The bolt shaft will rise through the mount along with the body. Once lifted you can apply heat directly to the bottom of the cage nut and spin the bolt shaft out with a vise grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 I find the reason the front two cab bolts are the worst to remove is because moisture is somehow allowed to collect in that area between the cage nut and the bolt, due to being somewhat exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 No matter what method anyone has adopted, for had simply stated their "approved" method. What matters is that, no matter what method you choose, there is now a cap on the time you will get paid.... FWIW, and this is a facetious question, those that weld the cage nuts... do you clean, prep and seal the surface from rust, etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 I heat them all with a torch and remove by hand. If the front ones still feel tight after heating, I just cut the head off. The bolt shaft will rise through the mount along with the body. Once lifted you can apply heat directly to the bottom of the cage nut and spin the bolt shaft out with a vise grip. High five, brotha. That's the way I do all the cab bolts now. Buddy of mine told me about it quite some time ago. Works slicker than puppy poop on a linoleum floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 I still will not use an impact wrench. Call me stubborn but a few careful minutes saves me from dealing with broken cage nuts almost every time. I will say however that taking the 2 or 3 minutes to unbolt and remove both headlamp assemblies is well worth it. Remove the headlamps to put your torch flame directly on the cage nuts. Holy shit what a difference! And jacking around with the screw jack was not necessary... but I still like the concept though. I have tried the cutting the head off the front bolts and this is far less trouble in my opinion. You still have to get them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 No friggin air tools here either. Heat and break them loose by hand. Once they're loose, the good ole' Millwaukee Hole Hawg rips em out the rest of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 I have a 7/8" open end I heated and bent to slide in to hold the front cage nuts. Works pretty good with an impact. For the other ones i'll pull the carpet and have someone hold the other end with a socket/breaker bar. First one I did I tried heating them and removing by hand but i still spun a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 FWIW, and this is a facetious question, those that weld the cage nuts... do you clean, prep and seal the surface from rust, etc.? If Ford paying to prep and seal the surface from rust and are they paying for the paint? You know the answer Jim which kinda takes this question from facetious to feces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Kieth, Ford isn't paying for anyone to weld the cage nuts, either... the question is still facetious. I'm not going to argue the fact that welding the cage nut accomplishes what is needed... albeit in a manner the engineers haven't suggested nor condoned... but I think we owe it to the customer to squirt something on the bare metal - especially if we live in the rust belt. From a different angle... Ford isn't allowing a whole bunch of time for labour ops, anyway. So... are we going to perform substandard work because that's all that Ford is paying for? Or are we going to say "If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right". Maybe we could start a class action lawsuit to try and force Ford into realistic labour times? Wow.. talk about facetious questions..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Maybe we could start a class action lawsuit to try and force Ford into realistic labour times? Wrong website you dink! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 From a different angle... Ford isn't allowing a whole bunch of time for labour ops, anyway. So... are we going to perform substandard work because that's all that Ford is paying for? Or are we going to say "If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right". Anybody can do the job right, above and beyond what Ford calls for. All you have to do is supply your own labor, parts and paint costs out of your own pocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I already supply way too much labor out of my own pocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I already supply way too much labor out of my own pocket +1 Ain't that the truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 just for the hell of it I did a before and after test with light heat on the front nuts. these 2 were very stubborn and i had a hard time holding them with my "custom" 7/8s wrench. applied butane heat to the nut for 30-45 seconds, held them with the wrench and they zipped right out. i couldn't believe it worked that well. must have been just enough to break the loctite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Just out of idle curiousity, has anyone read TSB 10-25-03? Pay particular attention to step 4 in the "Service Procedure". I keep forgetting to check if the body bolts for 2011 are the same as 2010. And while I am in the middle of highjacking the thread, check out the locking hubs - the "CVH" locking hubs - on the 2011 Sooper Doodie. Tell me we aren't going to see some royal screw ups there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 I love the contradictory statements here and what happened to being required to replace the body bolts? Now all of a sudden we are trusted to apply thread lock? USE OF AIR TOOLS TO LOOSEN BODY SUPPORT MOUNT BOLTS CAN CAUSE THE CAGE NUTS TO SPIN INSIDE BODY. [*]Use hand tools to loosen the number 1 body support mount bolt(s) from the affected side(s). Use air tools to complete removal of the bolt(s). [*]Use a wire wheel to clean all thread lock material from the threads of the body support mount bolt(s). [*]Apply Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer to the threads of the body support mount bolt(s). We have beaten this dead horse several times and I still insist on lots of heat and loosening by hand all the way. Is a propane torch really hot enough for you guys? I prefer oxy-acetylene being careful not to smoke the insulators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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