Anyone rebuilding super duty steering gears?

Matt Saunoras · November 16, 2010

This is on my own personal vehicle so if i can locate the rest of the necessary tools I'm going to attempt it. I have a leak coming out of the bottom sector shaft seal. There's no play in the box, it just has a slight leak

I was wondering if anyone has had any success replacing leaking seals? If it's not worth doing i won't waste my time.

The funny thing is I found the worm bearing locknut tool in the basement today by accident, that's what started this idea, i just assumed we didn't have the tools and i certainly wasn't going to pay for them on my own dime.

Thanks guys

Keith Browning · November 16, 2010

I have only done the medium duty truck steering gears but I vaguely recall replacing an output shaft seal or two on Super Duty's. It has been a while though

Jim Warman · November 16, 2010

If you find a source for parts, let me know... "Back in the day" we could even buy the individual balls for the recirculating ball nut.

I don't see many current steering gears leaking but I see far too many with excess play in the lower sector shaft bushing.

However... if your only problem is the sector shaft seal, you should be able to replace that with the steering box "in situ".

Keith Browning · November 16, 2010

However... if your only problem is the sector shaft seal, you should be able to replace that with the steering box "in situ".

Yes Sir! I also recall an SSM advising us not to replace steering gears for leaks and that there were seal kits or individual seals avalable... I can't remember.

BrunoWilimek · November 17, 2010

If the kit is similar to the ones I have replaced in the past, it comes with extra parts not required if you are only replacing the sector shaft seal on the truck. You only use the parts neccessary to re/re the seal. 3 additional things come to mind. 1)To remove the seal, remove the pitman arm and snap ring. Replace the pitman arm on the shaft in the same location temporarily. Start the engine and turn steering wheel lock to lock a few times. Usually the pressure built-up will pop the seal out. 2)If the snap ring has come out of the groove already, causing the seal to pop out and leak, the groove is damaged and you will need a new gearbox. and 3)If the shaft is rusty at the sealing area, the new seal may not cure the leak. You then have 3 options. 1)Disassemble the box far enough to clean the shaft using strip emery paper. 2)Replace the shaft or 3)Replace the Box. Posted Image

Matt Saunoras · November 17, 2010

That's exactly why I asked. thanks for your input everyone

I actually did locate all the T65P/T66P tools required as per workshop manual but I might make a liar out of myself, this sounded like a good idea at first but now I'm not sure. This truck has some rust, not a lot but enough that it's possible that the sector shaft is the culprit. I'll price out a shaft tomorrow

New box is ~$260. seal kit is a gamble but it's only ~$40

Bruce Amacker · November 17, 2010

I haven't done a SD or any box for quite a while. but when I had the shop we did lots of them. Here's my experience- putting a seal in it will only put off the inevitable return of the leak due to salt rot on the sector shaft. I learned to not replace just the seal but also to replace the sector shaft, which is really easy and does not require box R&R or complete disassembly in most cases (depending on access).

If it were my own I'd look into a sector shaft. If it were too much money and I had a bit of time, I'd pull the sector shaft out, clean it, mike it to get an exact dimension where the rot line is, and get a seal sleeve from a HD truck parts supplier. Sleeves are a great way to properly prevent a leak from returning. IIRC, CR (Chicago Rawhide, a major seal supplier) part numbers for sleeves run like this- 99250 is a 2.500" seal sleeve. You might need a 99150 or something like that, have the HD dude look up the size for you. CR seal sleeves are machined on a lathe, not cheap- $20-30, but only .003-.005" thick and use the OE seal, not an oversize one. You clean the shaft with sandpaper, put a film of gasket sealer on the shaft, install the sleeve with the appropriate sized piece of pipe and a vise or press (maybe 30 lbs of force, but you DON'T want to hammer it- it must be pushed on!) and then peel the install flange off with a pair of dikes leaving only a thin perfect band where the rot line is. I put hundreds of them on in my life, they are REALLY cool.

Good Luck!

Posted Image

blown99 · November 18, 2010

I've repaired them with the sleeve and a new seal. I had to trim the sleeve to fit the application. With what I see with reman products, I like to at least make the attempt to repair it first.

cbriggs · November 25, 2010

I always pull the sector shaft out as well, then you can properly inspect, clean, polish, or sleeve the shaft. makes the seal install way easier as well. but, yeah, very easy and very feaseable repair.

Matt Saunoras · October 27, 2011

Okay, a little update. I replaced the box in my truck a few weeks ago with a reman unit. Everything is great, the new box is much tighter and doesn't leak at all, very satisified with the purchase. Honestly I wasn't confident in my ability to repair my leak.

Then last week I looked at a 2010 F-250 gasser with the exact same leak. This one's warranty so it's getting a seal kit which I reluctantly installed today. Good news is it came out fine. R&R box, removed the sector shaft, replaced the necessary seals and claimed a little m-time for "polishing" the shaft. Meshload adjustment was straight forward and the steering feels the same way as it did.

Now I can't help but wonder............should I have atleast attempted mine? Posted Image

Keith Browning · October 27, 2011

I would have encouraged you to do so. We have become used to the new industry standard of swapping out parts like this. I recall personally rebuilding steering gears and alternators when I was just new to Ford and we stocked parts for these types of repairs. I think it can help give you a better understanding of how the pats and systems work. Nothing wrong with swapping stuff out if it is the best cost effective option, I just thing something is lost in the process sometimes.

Jim Warman · October 27, 2011

Now I can't help but wonder............should I have atleast attempted mine?

By all means. If all you need is to reseal the box, there shouldn't be anything holding you back. Used to be we could get any and all internal parts direct from Ford including everything for the recirculating ball nut as well as the spool valve. The hardest part about any of it is replacing the teflon seals on the ball nut/piston and/or spool valve seals (and I'm not sure that these are available in modern reseal kits anyway).

Chase · November 11, 2011

I agree, especially when you are working on your own vehicle on your own time. I always try to fix what I can on my truck before I buy anything "remanufactured". Case in point- I just resealed the CII steering pump on my 87 F250- $10 vs $50 for a new pump, going to reseal the box this weekend, as long as it's in ok shape. First time i've seen the inside of a power steering pump-even after 4 yrs of college. Like Keith said also gives you a better understanding of what you are replacing and why you are replacing it.