dieseldoc Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Not sure exactly where this post should be placed but here it is. I have a broken tap stuck in a cylinder head. The broken piece is now to the bottom of the hole and is loose(can wiggle it with a pick). The threads are damage and will now need to be heli-coiled, so they are not in the way. I have tried every trick I have for broken taps and at the end of my wits. I have tried the broken tap socket, a carbide to grind it out, and my last resort breaking it out with a punch and hammer as well as my air hammer. Every other broken tap I have had like this I hit it a couple times with a sharp air hammer point and they shatter or break in to smaller pieces you can blow out with a blow gun, but not this sob. Wondering if anybody has anything else that might work?? Not sure what elso to try here. I am currently trying the go home and drink a couple whiskeys and see if it has fallen out over night plan. Any input appreciated, Have never had a tap this tough to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I have never had much luck trying to shatter broken taps or easy out extractors by punching them pout. Maybe I am worried about causing more damage to the part. I can tell you that trying to use a drill bit or carbide grinder will most certainly fail and cause damage to the part. Not long ago I was faced with this very problem in my shop. You will have success by using a Dremel high-speed motor tool and an aluminum oxide grinding bit. You will likely go through a couple of bits but you will safely and effectively grind away at the broken tool and if you are very careful you will cause minimal damage to the part. I researched this a little and not all stones will work on metal at all much less hardened steel. According to a couple of sources and the bit description @ the Dremel web site aluminum oxide is the way to go. CLICK HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Last one I had, got it out with a plasma cutter........<crickets>....... I shit you not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 You can do it with a cutting torch easily, too, if you have a decent eye and common sense. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I wouldn't know what to do since it's at the bottom of the hole. i've pulled 2 broken taps out with my MIG so far but they've both been at the surface and both brought the stud out with it. i wish i had a plasma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Take the torch with a small or medium cutting head on it. Put it into the hole for about 10 seconds or less until you think (or see) the chunk is glowing. Hit the lever and a shower of sparks will confirm all is well. I've done this a few times but I've seen guys blow broken bolts out so clean that a new bolt would thread right in without chasing it. Try it on a scrap head first if you're queasy about it. The physics is like this- the head won't burn because there is too much mass there to raise up to melting or burning temp quickly. Because the tap chunk is sitting there and weighs less than a gram it heats up to the "glow point" rather quickly. As long as you work quickly the head never has a chance to get hot enough to burn. I feel especially confident you can do this successfully because the piece is loose in the hole. It's a counting game- I'm guessing 8-10 seconds, then hit the lever. Practice first on a couple if you're not sure- put a BB in a thread hole and try it. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I have used this method as well ^^^^ Works quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldoc Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks for all the input guys. It was a ten hour pain in the ass. I tried the torch trick as a last resort and did not seem to work very well on this tap. I have had it work great on bolts before though. It finally broke up enough to get it out. Fixed the threads with an insert and its holding. My reccomendation is to never ever buy Caterpillar taps. In the ten years I have been wrenching professionally I have had 3 taps break on me two were cat and the cat ones were a bear both times. I knew better than to use it but was in a hurry and did not want to go dig in my service truck in the cold and 30mph wind to get my set. Lesson learned....Thanks again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 My recommendation is to never ever buy Caterpillar taps. In the ten years I have been wrenching professionally I have had 3 taps break on me two were cat and the cat ones were a bear both times. In my experience the biggest reason taps break is because they are worn or dull and I push them too hard. If you use a brand new sharp tap it's much less likely to break. I buy good US taps but not always the top brands.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldoc Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 That is generally the rule I have had a brand new cat tap out of the bag snap off and so have several of my coworkers. I bought my taps and dies from mac and have never had one break on me. My experience with taps is that you definitely get what you pay for. This is one of those tools that you should spend some money on. Thanks for all the suggestions guys I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 The more I think about this the more I realize that over the years when I have broken taps or thread chasers it was because I was probably bot using the tool correctly. I mean that I "forced the issue" and tried to bite off more than I could chew. Wither I didn't drill the hole to the correct size or I did not use any lubricant but most of all, backing the tap out of the hole after every few turns to clean out the cut material basically prevents the tap from getting bound up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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