JSHTech Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 2003 F250. Customer had complaints about engine temp running too hot. When I test drove it originally ECT wouldn't go over 178F, but EOT went up to 195F. I knew that was too low for normal engine operating temp after a 20 mile test loop. Put a thermostat in it, now ECT runs 188-192F, and EOT runs 199-203F. During my second test drive the greatest variation I saw was EOT 14 degrees hotter, not as much as my first drive with an open thermostat. This truck has 105K and orignal oil cooler. Once both temps leveled off they would fluctuate together. If the cooler were partially plugged would it still allow the temps to semi - mirror each other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 ECT needs to be over 190F to properly test. You need to drive at WOT and acheive full boost. Then let off and cruise at a steady speed. Typically the highest differential will occur during the cruise after the WOT/ full boost accelleration. Anything over 15F is considered bad. Typically they will hold around 8 to 10, If it goes over 12 I consider it bad, odly so does Ford because if you have the latest calibration it will set a code at 10 F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Typically they will hold around 8 to 10, If it goes over 12 I consider it bad, odly so does Ford because if you have the latest calibration it will set a code at 10 F.Really? You mean the P012F code that is exclusive to 2005 and newer models? And you say it will set at 10*F instead 15*F? Where did you obtain this information from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 PPT AX4. 10 F diff to set the code. I may be reading this wrong but we tested it on one of our tech's trucks that was setting this code. At the 10F difference it set the code, every time. Makes no sense to me. Or I may be interpreting this wrong. A lot of EGR cooler failures that come in do not set this code. But they may not have up to date calibrations either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 My opinion is that I use 25F as a differential between EOT and ECT for a cutpoint, and this is only valid on a good highway run. In the city or in the bay these temps will virtually mirror each other even if the cooler is partially restricted. I know Ford revised the spec to 15F but that's too close to normal for me, I've seen 13F spread on a truck with both coolers brand new. Usually when they wacked, they're really wacked, more than 25F. If it's in the low 20's I warn the cust that they may be on the road to a couple of coolers. 10F spread setting codes is news to me, and doesn't sound right. I don't know if Ford publishes a max oil temp but IH publishes 250F max, so I wouldn't get upset about such a small differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 The tech's truck would hit 22F differential, well over the 15F spec from Ford. He got rid of because it was off warranty. The oil cooler wasn't done when we did his EGR cooler. Was done before the TSB came out with the true cause of failure. . He was a little pissed. On one customers truck I was going through the coked EGR valve process and roadtested for oil cooler restriction. This one was hitting 35F differential and stayed there, never dropped. I told him he needs to do his oil cooler to fix the EGR coking and prevent the EGR cooler from blowing. He says not right now, I will take my chances. Day after he gets towed in. EGR cooler blew on his way home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 ^^^^Usually when I see the EGR valve all clogged up I always check for EGR cooler leak because in my experience more than likely the EGR cooler is leaking and causing the EGR valve to clog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 I submitted a prior approval request one time, and reported the temp differential as 4`c between eot and ect (I live in Canada, eh), prior approval came back and said, since 4`c is equal to 39`f, this is outside of spec and I need to address the oil cooler before repairing (textbook) leaking headgaskets. I sent the request back, with the question seriously? and then the correct conversion. I wish I had kept a copy of that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 I sent the request back, with the question seriously? and then the correct conversion. What conversion? 4 degrees Celsius equals 39.2 degrees Fahrenheit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yeah, if you are looking at straight temperature, not temperature change, (or difference). 4`c of temp change = 7.2`f of temp change. The spec in the tsb is 15`f, which = 8.4`c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Okay, now I see... difference. Duh! 1 degree Fahrenheit = 1.8 degrees Celsius. So, 4X1.8=7.2 Late night flat-rate reading strikes again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 ^^^^Usually when I see the EGR valve all clogged up I always check for EGR cooler leak because in my experience more than likely the EGR cooler is leaking and causing the EGR valve to clog. +1 Originally Posted By: Bruce Amacker My opinion is that I use 25F as a differential between EOT and ECT for a cutpoint, and this is only valid on a good highway run. In the city or in the bay these temps will virtually mirror each other even if the cooler is partially restricted. I know Ford revised the spec to 15F but that's too close to normal for me, I've seen 13F spread on a truck with both coolers brand new. Usually when they wacked, they're really wacked, more than 25F. If it's in the low 20's I warn the cust that they may be on the road to a couple of coolers. 10F spread setting codes is news to me, and doesn't sound right. I don't know if Ford publishes a max oil temp but IH publishes 250F max, so I wouldn't get upset about such a small differential. The original TSB had the maximum difference at 15*F, later ford had a message out that made it 25*F, it wasn't long after that, and they came back and revised the TSB yet again to say 15*F....SERIOUSLY!?!? Make up your minds!! While I agree with Bruce on this one as I too have seen a few trucks where after putting new coolers in they still ready 10*F - 13*F difference's, I will go with 's publications that give me a leg to stand on! CYA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 ^^^^Usually when I see the EGR valve all clogged up I always check for EGR cooler leak because in my experience more than likely the EGR cooler is leaking and causing the EGR valve to clog. Typically a leaking EGR cooler will clean the EGR valve and the intake. And if you think about it, according to the engineers, the oil cooler in-efficency contributes to both EGR valve coking and EGR cooler failure. So you can have both happening if you catch the leak before it gets serious enough. Most times the truck we get in have a full blown leak and it cleans out the EGR valve, plus side is the customer doesn't have to pay for a new valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 While EGR cooler leaks tend to clean the EGR valves they tend to become sluggish and sticky as wet carbon/moisture works up on the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSHTech Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Alrighty. It's been a little while, but I'm finally getting around to doing this cooler. Actually, winter is finally over and the customer finally decided to take his plow off and let me do it. Anyhow. All disassembled, and just a few questions, because this so happens to be my first cooler replacement. Is there anyway to drain the oil back into the pan? Or is suctioning it out the only way? Also, the screen is blown out in one panel. From what I've read this seems to be common. Found some minor debris present in it. When you guys come across this what do you recommend? Don't worry about it and just put the new screen in, pull the IPR for inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 All disassembled, and just a few questions, because this so happens to be my first cooler replacement. Is there anyway to drain the oil back into the pan? Or is suctioning it out the only way? Also, the screen is blown out in one panel. From what I've read this seems to be common. Found some minor debris present in it. When you guys come across this what do you recommend? Don't worry about it and just put the new screen in, pull the IPR for inspection?On 2005 and newer trucks that haven't had the STC fitting replaced, I'll remove the HPOP FIRST (just by the way the engine is angled rearward, most of the oil in the reservoir under the cooler will drain out through the HPOP inlet and into the crankcase upon HPOP removal), and charge the additional labour to replace the STC fitting with the update part. Once this is done, the oil cooler can be removed without making a huge mess of oil spilling out. Do yourself a favour and clean the channel under the screen REAL WELL (I like to blow it out with compressed air), before re-installing the oil cooler and HPOP. By doing this, you will greatly reduce the likelihood of buggering up the IPR valve during initial engine startup at the conclusion of the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSHTech Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Hmmm. This bad boy is a 2003. As you know, just about everything is different. So, I don't know if it's really worth it to pull the HPOP just to have the oil drain down, because I'm assuming that the STC fitting is not a problem for this model year. Correct? I might just suction it out in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 After removing the screen and suctioning our the reservoir, run a suction hose up into the channel feeding the high pressure pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I usually just take a quart oil bottle and cut the bottom off and use it to scoop out any excess oil so when it's reassembled it does not over flow. I don't worry about emptying it completely. Also before you install the filter pour a quart or two of oil into the housing it seems to cut down the cranking time on startup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 I always suck them out and do an oil change when the job is all done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Meanwrench Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 I like to super clean the shit out of the top of the engine and then suck the reservoir dry. If your shop has a BG rear end service machine or something similar it makes it an easy and clean job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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