Wheel Studs & Threadlock

[Keith Browning]

I always used the theory that wheel studs and nuts should always be assembled clean and dry and ideally torqued to the correct specification. Through the years I have seen many vehicles where someone has applied anti-seize compound to the threads. Today was a first when I discovered lug nuts coming off with difficulty due to the application of threadlock.

 

If either practice was beneficial or required wouldn't the manufacturers apply either (conflicting) compound? I have never seen properly tightened, clean/dry lugs fail and am of the opinion that neither should be used. I also think that applying either during assembly will affect the torque readings and actually promote over tightening and damage to the fastener.

 

What say you?

[Buddy_M]

Now on light duty, depending on vehicle use, I will either keep them at clean dry threads, or apply a little antizeize. The main factor is what conditions it will see. If it is a small car, I have never had an issue removing wheels and rarely use antiseize. Any of the 3/4-1ton trucks with hub piloted wheels(Ford/Chevy/Dodge/etc) and the HD trucks with Budd or hub-pilots will get a coat of antiseize to the hub, and the threads too usually to prevent seizing and ease future removal. I acually keep a aerosol can of antiseize around just to spray hubs when reinstalling wheels. I started using antiseize in college 7 years ago from high recommendations from the instructors, and have yet to have a wheel come loose or break a stud from over/under tightening, and it definately helps removal, especially if you live anywhere salt is on the roads in the winter or in the air.

[Buddy_M]

As for the threadlock, I can't ever see a need to threadlock lugnuts on a vehicle. Each chemical has its own place where I use them on a vehicle during certain repairs, and loctite on lugnuts is definately one I have never done, or seen.. Or even heard of until now. lol

[Brad Clayton]

All vehicles leave my bay with clean and dry lug nuts and studs. It drives me nuts to work on a car that someone anti-seized the snot out of the lug nuts. That shit slings out every where and is down right......ah, I can't think of a word to describe it.

 

As far as loc-tite goes, they might as well break out the welder and tack them lugs on for good while they're at it!

[joshbuys]

Like Keith, I've always been of the opinion that wheels should be torqued to the proper specs, clean/dry studs, I will anti-seize where the rotor meets the hub/wheel meets the rotor/hub, but never on the lug nuts/studs!

 

Think of it this way. The car you just worked on had a wheel fall off(lug nuts fell off/studs broke) people may be injured/killed in the accident following this event, customer brings lawsuit against dealership/technician, records are subpoenaed, investigation shows other lug nuts to be higher/lower torque than recommended. Workshop manual says XXX LB/FT(Nm), This one releases at YYY LB/FT(Nm), and that one releases at ZZZ LB/FT(Nm), dealership now pays fine, tech now pays fine/jail time. Now what do you do?!?!

 

There are certain things that get torqued EVERY TIME. On my ro's, I always note the torque of safety items(i.e. lug nuts, brake caliper/anchor bolts, seat belts, etc.).

 

If it could kill somebody, it will get torqued, if it is an internal engine component, it will be torqued.

 

Call me anal or obsessive compulsive, but I need to be able to sleep at night!!!! I'm to 'pretty' for jail! I have a wife and children that need me at home.