Keith Browning Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Anyone run into this DTC? I pulled it all on it's lonesome and no problems with the cooling system or the sensors. Freeze frame data shows 23'F ECT/EOT difference so I am wondering what the threshold for the code really is. I was under the impression that the EGR cooler efficiency was not as big of a deal with the 6.4 as the oil cooler doesn't feed the EGR cooler coolant like the 6.0L According the PCED the truck is getting an oil cooler. Haven't looked in the WSM yet as to what is involved in replacing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 From my notes: The oil cooler is removed without removing the intake manifold. Lift the front of the cooler upward under the intake, then tilt the rear of the cooler out and slide it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Really? The turbocharger and the turbo pedestal must be removed to access the cooler which means the cab is coming off. It is recommended that this component be serviced with the vehicle body removed. If the body can be removed, refer to Oil Cooler — Body Off in this section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=23965&Searchpage=1&Main=2664&Words=%22oil+cooler%22&Search=true#Post23965 But it's not clear whether the cab is on or off....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Really? The turbocharger and the turbo pedestal must be removed to access the cooler which means the cab is coming off. Originally Posted By: 2008 F-Series Workshop Manual It is recommended that this component be serviced with the vehicle body removed. If the body can be removed, refer to Oil Cooler — Body Off in this section I can get the turbo off this bad boy in about an hour - cab on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 My shop has replaced about 4 oil coolers for this code. I personally haven't seen the code yet. Now the thermostat code I have seen several times and everytime after the recall had just been performed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I can get the turbo off this bad boy in about an hour - cab on! Any tips you'd like to clue us in on? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Originally Posted By: joshbuys I can get the turbo off this bad boy in about an hour - cab on! Any tips you'd like to clue us in on? Thanks! Of course....I would've when I posted that, but didn't have much time. 1st: Drain Coolant, Remove LH Battery and Degas Bottle, unbolt upper turbo cross-over pipe bracket and turbo actuator cooler, I like to put caps in the fuel cooler ports to prevent spillage, swing cooler/cross-over tube assembly over to wheel well area. Remove air filter, oil fill neck and turbo inlet tube, undo CAC connections @ Turbo outlet - hot side, and at CAC - cold side (at top right) remove and cap transmission cooler line(just the one that goes straight up into the cooler (RH lower). 2nd: Unbolt cab (all bolts except very rear 2) using a 4x4 block of wood, jack up front of cab until you can place a 4x4 block of wood between the 2 front body mounts and frame. 3rd: At this point you can reach almost all of the turbo pipe bolts with an air ratchet. Remove the turbo oil inlet and the heat shield. Remove the transmission dipstick. Remove the down pipe (it will slide out the bottom at this point). Unbolt the EGRDOC pipe (loosen the 13mm bolt on the bracket near the LH up pipe - this is one of the bolts that cannot be accessed with an air tool, the 1/2 moon wratchet wrench works great hear and for the upper LH up pipe nut). Pivot the EGRDOC pipe to the driver side so it's out of your way. Unbolt the up pipes. Unbolt the turbos and using the lifting bracket remove the turbo assembly (tilt the front up as you lift it and it will slide right out). I'm doing a HPP on one today, I'll try to get some pictures. The last HPP I did on Saturday took me approx 4 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezit Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 a thing to note about p012f its not really what it seems to be from the pinpoint test.. I have been bit in the ass by this code one time and learnd a bunch. its a code that is produed by low flow to the cooler, and not always going to be a cooler issue. I have had a front cover cause this code. the cavation was bad enugh to bypass flow around the water pump causing redued flow durring long drives causing the delta to spread. O ya and Josh is pretty much right on the money for beating the repair time to death. get a bluepoint 10mm striped bolt socket too. the snap-one one is differnet and sucks ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hot-Line told me to put a pump in the one in the bay right now. Thank you for the heads up though. I have to put a front crank seal in this one so pulling the pump is a no brainer. Has anyone tried a coolant flush to service this code??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezit Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 gonna have to do a flush with vc9 after replacement. contact tech support and ask point blank " do I do a flush with repair after replaing the oil cooler" there standard reply has been yes per the wsm section ...... I do this to insure I get paid because nowere in the wsm does it say to do so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 AHH! I asked the very same question, and as a matter of fact, the main reason I contacted the Hot-Line. My customer is paying for the flush. Ford pays for the coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Got the cooler out with the intake manifold in place. This is good because I HATE messing with all them. The only thing is I had to remove the oil filter adapter/cover off of the housing but it popped right up after that. The problem for me was the oil fitting which is in the adapter cover. I also needed to remove the Power Steering pump to access the front oil cooler bolts. No biggie because I had to take the fan out anyway to replace the front crank seal and I wanted to remove the water pump to inspect it and the front cover. No problems with either. I inspected the oil cooler and found no sludge like you might with a 6.0L cooler but I did find a lot of rust particles in the bottom of it. The consistency of granules, dark brown almost flakes... like you might find in one of Fords rusty fuel tanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 And it pays to remember that you have to bolt the oil filter adapter/cover back on BEFORE you bolt down the oil cooler to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Quote: I inspected the oil cooler and found no sludge like you might with a 6.0L cooler but I did find a lot of rust particles in the bottom of it. The consistency of granules, dark brown almost flakes... like you might find in one of Fords rusty fuel tanks! I had a 6.ol with a p012f today and the cooler looked just like yours Keith. Mine looked like it was being topped up with orange or pink coolant, not sure if that was related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Well, the Orange specialty coolant and the green/Gold coolants are not compatible and mixing them causes the anti-corrosion additives to quickly become ineffective. I guess it's not s stretch to see heavy rust from this. I can't explain the truck I am working on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Digging up an old thread because I want to, kidding. I have one here that sets P012F after regen. PPT AT has threshold listed at 16-30F depending on load and engine speed. On my roadtest I was hovering around 18F which is normal I guess. Has anyone ever monitored this during regen? I suppose it could send it high, but I wonder if this truck will, seeing as it is on the low end of the scale for now. It does have a coolant leak at the usual upper rad hose and coolant is down but not too bad. No overheating. No history of major coolant leaks that could end in cavitation either. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmiller Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 I would guess that the coolant level got low and it's threw the code, then the coolant level was topped up by the customer perhaps? That's not a code I'd really want to chase after on a 6.4, I'd get quite content with unable to duplicate on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I just finished repairs on an f450 and it did a regen on my drive. I drove about 10 miles out and it finished, turned around and stomped it 0-75 5 timesand ect-eot delta was a max of 9 degrees. Truck has 69,000 miles. came in overheated, freeze frame showed 275 degree ect and 266 degree eot. Lower hose leaking severely. Engine appears to be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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