DieselD Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 SLTS has dropped on this to 4.3hrs vs the 6.1 it used to be so watch yourself. That seems a little thin to make sure that cab is off and on in a safe manner. I forsee claiming EVERY cage nut being spun on them now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkachma Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 it is getting to be a big joke of how ppl who sit in some office can take control of some guys payckeck thousands and thousands mile away, and yet probably those guys who r adjusting the labour times are probably soaking up the rewards of Ford making more money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I'll be honest, I can't do cab off/on that fast without really moving. I don't like rushing shit like that, I'll end up missing something that'll cost me in the end Already had 2 claims with the new labor op. Lets just say i'm not even near 100% on diesel warranty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I beleive there are seperate labour ops now as well for each spun cage nut, depending on what row it is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 There are new ops for the cage nuts spinning however its only .9 for all of them so even at that you still come up short. I dont mind pulling on the 6.4 but I think it takes time to make sure its right when your done. I have seen guys slam a cab on quickly without taking the time to line it back up the right way. The result is mismatched body lines and a pissed off customer. I can only imagine this to be worse due to guys knowing they are not going to get paid shit to pull a cab and rush to get it done. I actually prefer when fleet trucks have a bunch of extra wiring and crap that "has" to come out. I can run straight time for all that bs and make up what ford bends me over for on the rest of the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 I had three cage nuts require special attention today. Then to add insult to injury, the damn trans cooler line "quick connects" became painfully "slow disconnects." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 I gave up on the quick dissconects, I remove the rubber line at the ota cooler and the bottom of the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 I gave up on the quick dissconects, I remove the rubber line at the ota cooler and the bottom of the rad. no kidding...It typically takes longer to take those lousy disconnects then just do it at the cooler itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Two things on the quick connects I have learned. It helps to clean out the opening with some brakleen and compressed air first, then hit it with some penetrating oil. I just discovered that gently heating the fitting with a hand-held torch made the coupling immediately come apart. I said GENTLY heat, as in warm it up, not melt he plastic inside. On the next one I will try this first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Originally Posted By: cbriggs I gave up on the quick dissconects, I remove the rubber line at the ota cooler and the bottom of the rad. no kidding...It typically takes longer to take those lousy disconnects then just do it at the cooler itself Plus 1 to that, I do the same. On the last 3 cab lifts I have taken to using my little Blue Point butane torch on every cage nut. For the few minutes it takes to get at them with out needing room for tools, it's worth it because they all come out with my impact after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Butane torch? No no no no. When you have one that tightens up, acetylene to the nuts until they are red hot then they loosen like buttah. Her in jersey the two front rot and sometimes the ones under the dash. The nuts are easy to access... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 I gave up on the quick dissconects, I remove the rubber line at the ota cooler and the bottom of the rad. I've been doing the same. Though I did have one leak after it was reattached. A hose clamp fixed that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 IMHO, by the time in try to wrench them and have them tighten up, then grab the torch, I would have had them off already using my little butane jobby first. I don't even attempt a dry removal anymore. We get mostly dirt packed on top of ours here. Blow it clean with some shop air and add a little heat to the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I performed an experiment twice in the last week and confirmed that gently heating the line makes the disconnects come apart like they should. No damage no leaks... unless you get stupid and get the line red hot. I apply my propane torch to the line and give it a quick 10 count. I WISH I figured that out years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmiller Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Update to this: 1) Try lifting up on the cab with the bolts stil done up to stress the cage nuts. Just a couple of inches to put some force on it. Bam. Impact wrench. Out. The front 2 can be finicky with this. A bit of heat on them and they practically fall out after. Or just save them for last and lift the body a little more. 2) Search the TSBs and print hard copies in case they disappear. There are 2 related to cage nuts. One SPECIFICALLY says to use an air impact wrench to remove them. The other SPECIFICALLY says NOT to use air tools to remove the bolts. DUUUHHH.... they totally conflict each other. Anyone, one of the, has an MT op for removing cab bolts. Though there are labour ops, TSB supersedes SLTS according to warranty, right? If something becomes a TSB we have to use it regardless of how crappy the time becomes. So use it to your advantage on this one and clock the MT you need. If they ask why it took so long, say you used air tools according the first bulletin.....ring around the roooosie.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Lift truck on hoist. Blow all the bolt heads off the cab mounts with the gas axe. Lift cab. Heat bolt directly at cage nut/Loctite. Wind out stud/remnants of mount bolt with pliers. Beer. Works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Great idea, Except now they don't want the bolts replaced, clean and reuse, with new loctite. (oops, I read never seize?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 "NEC TO HEAT CAB MOUNT BOLTS TO REMOVE, DURING REMOVAL THREADS STRIPPED FROM BOLT. NEC TO REPLACE ALL CAB MOUNT BOLTS WITH NEW STOCK." I seem to recall something about the cage nuts being harder than the bolt thread, causing the bolt threads to go for a shit before the cage nuts did. Mine have anti-seize on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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