2006 6.0 Coolant Loss

ETS · September 16, 2011

My 2006 F350 has developed a mysterious coolant loss problem. It has used 1/2 gallon every 2 weeks for the last 2 months. It has excessive pressure [in excess of 20 pounds]in degas bottle but only after a run. No bubbles or block test failure at idle. Checks good now. No codes, No smoke, Runs like a watch. No external leaks. It is used as intended hauling firewood and construction materials on weekends. Bone stock, 60k miles. I am thinking egr cooler but can't prove it. Any difinitive way to tell? Cracked head or gasket? It has not been overheated! Also I have read here FORD requires OIL cooler when EGR cooler fails? I do not understand the connection. My temps are running 7-9 degrees different which is a little high. I will probably due both anyway. Has anyone used the BULLETPROOF Products? Improved egr cooler and oil cooler eliminater kit that uses spin on external oil filter and cooler? I only want to do this once. Thanks In Advance, Mike

DieselD · September 16, 2011

Sure sounds like you might have a headgasket issue happening.

Whats the inside of your intake look like? coked up? I have seen very small leaks at the front of the egr cooler cause a coking problem to build up within the intake and front side of the EGR cooler. You can usually tell by the type of coking. Little dry chucks with a greyish tint to them. You might need to take the cooler out and block if off and pressure test it. The oil cooler gets changed as it ends up being a pretty big player in EGR cooler failures. Hell we where doing this way before the TSB came out telling us to do so. They plug up pretty quick with poor coolant service/debris/casting maternial etc.

bullet proof makes very nice products and their coolers are pretty slick but you still need to make sure you get the root cause of the egr cooler failure first if that happens to be your issue

lmorris · September 16, 2011

Are there any signs of coolant in the exhaust? Use a vacuum type cooling system filler and apply 20" of vacuum to the system, you will have to lower the level quite a bit to do this, If vacuum holds over 15 minutes most likely the cooler is ok. When you say 7-9 degrees difference, is that F or C. Ford spec is 15 degrees Fahrenheit, so 7-9 are normal if in degrees F. Is there a lot of white flacky residue around the cap, if so the coolant is venting out past the cap. 20 PSI is way to high. Typically if the pressure raises right away its the cooler thats leaking, if it takes some hard driving to push it up then you have headgasket issues. I have seen headgaskets leak without an EGR cooler issue. Most likely you will have turbo unison ring issues also. As high boost is usually the cause of headgasket failure. The reason for replacing the oil cooler is this "The oil cooler has the smallest restriction in the cooling system, coolant flows directly from the oil cooler into the EGR cooler. If the oil cooler becomes restricted, coolant flow is reduced through the EGR cooler and causes overheating of the EGR cooler and it cracks internally." I see no problem in using aftermarket oil coolers, just don't eliminate the EGR cooler.

ETS · September 16, 2011

lmorris, There is no sign of coolant in the exaust. That is what is baffeling me. We do not have access to a vaccume type filler. 7-9 is Fahrenheit but the ones I have seen are almost never over 5. Turbo boost is normal. I have only seen 25 ounce and I was in it hard heavily loaded up the mountian. Usually not over 15. I run it like grandpa. It builds pressure on the 10 mile run home. Normal driving. I was afraid of that, I REALLY am not looking forward to doing heads on this. It will be my first set.

lmorris · September 17, 2011

Check your cooling fan operation also. Make sure it works. If you access to PID data you can ramp up the fanvar. to 100%, rev engine to 2500 RPM and the fanspeed should hit at least 2800RPM. If you do get the heads have them checked for warpage.

Brad Clayton · September 17, 2011

Quote:

We do not have access to a vacuum type filler.

These things are very inexpensive and I highly suggest getting this one as soon as possible.

http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=550000
It's the best on the market in my opinion and I have had mine for years and lost count on how many cooling systems it's filled.

It does sound like you maybe navigating towards head sealing issues. If you can't pid data or take control of the fan, look at it while the truck is idling. A fan that is on it's way out will look like it's sitting still or barely turning. Not a high tech definite diagnosis obviously but a good fan turns around 400 rpms at idle with no cooling load.

ETS · September 18, 2011

Ran fan test this morning, It was passing but on low side. 2700 rpm, Truck has both towing and plow package. Pulled air intake elbow and checked for coolant signs. Normal residue. Has anyone modified the valve cover vent into a road tube? It sure dumps a bunch of crap into the intake! Mine is cleaner than most. Almost no crank case pressure. Looks like head issue. Has anybody seen Ford adjust powertrain warranty? Now has 63k But 5 years were up in May. I talked to warranty clerk and service manager at local dealer they said NO! Without question.

Keith Browning · September 18, 2011

Ford has clamped down on warranties in the last few years. How big is your fleet and how much business you give your local dealers in parts purchases might help if you can get someone higher up the ladder to reach someone through Ford's fleet managers... I have seen some repairs get covered but it is not the dealer's decision. Good luck.

joshbuys · September 19, 2011

As long as it's under 6 years old there's the possibility of clp....over 6....forget about it

ETS · April 18, 2012

Update for anyone interested, Cyl. head cracked at #7 injector cup. Replaced both heads and installed studs with Ford gaskets. Also replaced coolers and engine harness.

Checked fuel pressure it was borderline low at time of repair, Installed updated pressure regulator kit. Looking for good price on module.

THANKS AGAIN! Too all of you.

Matt Saunoras · April 19, 2012

check ebay for the HFCM. PFB-101 or 6C3Z-9G282-C, I found one for my truck for about $190 shipped

mchan68 · April 19, 2012

How much did those cylinder heads and engine harness set you back if you don't mind me asking?

ETS · April 19, 2012

Found low milage used heads in a yard in PA. Cost 200.00 each. Sent them out to diesel machine shop for pressure test, magnaflux, surface check, etc. etc. another 200.00. Found new harness in sealed box on E pay. I think it was like 125.00 with ride. Ford gaskets on E pay also got two for price of 1 from shop somewhere in VA. Same with oil cooler paid about 2/3 price. Went with bullet proof egr cooler 250.00. Studs were expensive! No deals on them out there. Misc. stuff from local dealer.

I had been collecting pieces for the last 4 months.

Job cost me about 1800.00 total I guess. Plus my labor.

Thinking about carring the bill to local magastrate and trying to force selling dealer to pay at least part of the bill. Truck was broke when I bought it. Probably a waste of time though. Posted Image

Brad Clayton · April 19, 2012

Quote:

Probably a waste of time though.

Never a waste of time! If you don't ask then you will never get it.

mchan68 · April 20, 2012

Job cost me about 1800.00 total I guess. Plus my labor.

Holy shit. Just ONE new cylinder head alone from Ford could cost you that much, never mind the rest of the parts.

Matt Saunoras · April 20, 2012

That's a good price on the heads. I can't find any for any cheaper, I'd like to get a set to have worked over.

Isn't it funny when you actually own a 6.0 how many parts you find necessary to acquire? I also have an engine harness, ficm harness, hpop, headgaskets etc. None of them were bought for more than half of cost.